May 25, 2013 world of men's style / fashion / grooming RSS
“Workwear”
11/25/09
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Dept. of Corrections

Team America

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Who’d have thought a few tables of gear would cause so much ruckus?

Last weekend’s Pop-Up Flea (co-helmed by our esteemed editor, Mr. Randy Goldberg) has attracted the ire of some internet denizens, and it was enough to call forth this downright brilliant post from Put This On’s Jesse Thorn, defending well-crafted denim, designer interpretations of classic work shirts, and the Americana movement in general.

We’re not much for dwelling on the negative, but with all the accusations of bad faith, it seems healthy to bring things a bit down to earth.

Our humble response»

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09/01/09
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Good Idea

The Return of the Smock

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The smock is one of the more obscure items to come out of the current enthusiasm for workwear, but it’s not all that hard to wear. And while we’ve already picked out a favorite, this might be the most wearable we’ve seen.

This smock comes from the latest YMC collection, and splits the difference between an unstructured jacket and an exceedingly rugged button-up. The result is a clever item that’s ready to take the place of your spring jacket. It might not replace the hoodie just yet…but we can dream.

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08/18/09
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Labeled

Take Over

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Japanese workwear is one of our most rewarding obsessions, so we’re always interested in the latest crop.

Luckily, we just got a peek at a few Spring/Summer 2010 items from the folks at Post Overalls, and it’s enough to get our depression-era nostalgia going one more time. There’s a Suzuki-esque vest, an unstructured white jacket and a full complement of busy vintage patterns. Our favorite is the leafy green button-up…but it’s a crowded field.

See more from Post Overalls»

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06/17/09
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Labeled

Man at Work

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If you want to know what you’re getting in a piece of clothing, designer sketches can tell you a lot more than the average picture. So it only makes sense we’re starting to see a bit more of them.

Through what must have been an impressive feat of espionage, SlamXHype (via h(y)r) got their hands on Daiki Suzuki’s sketches for the upcoming Woolrich Woolen Mills fall line.

It’s impressive stuff, as we’ve come to expect from Suzuki, but his designs are also especially well suited to sketching. Without distracting things like color and fabric getting in the way, Suzuki’s patches and curves start to look more mathematical than nostalgic, and the whole enterprise takes on a workmanlike air. Which we’d say is only appropriate.

See more sketches»

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04/28/09
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Good Idea

Working Blue

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Last time around we were a little hard on the light cloth fishing vest, but this may be the one that changes our mind.

Maybe it’s the color, but this indigo Mr. Hinson vest seems a lot close to the original workwear spirit, and a lot more generally functional. It’s still a bit of an oddball idea, but oversized waist pockets like this are the kind of oddball idea we’re willing to follow through on.

One more and it’ll be a full-blown trend.

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04/21/09
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Bad Idea/Good Idea

Advanced Studies

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It’s official. Workwear has entered its baroque period…or at least Japanese workwear.

This linen blend fishing vest from the Japanese brand Mean might be the perfect example. There’s a reason we haven’t seen one before: If you tried to take it fishing, it would soak through from the tiniest splash. Linen is probably the least rugged material available, which is one of the many reasons it hasn’t found its way into workwear just yet.

In other words, someone is having some fun with us…

All is explained»

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04/17/09
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Object

The Paper Mill

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With Monocle steadily making its way through our favorite brands, it was only a matter of time before they got around to Woolrich Woolen Mills.

Daiki Suzuki’s current marque teamed up with the London lifestyle mag for this spring jacket (via Hypebeast), which does as good a job of showcasing Suzuki’s unique style as anything we’ve seen.

The lightweight, unstructured fabric is simple enough, but a closer look shows all kinds of oddball details, from the ticket pocket on the right side to the puzzling cutaway around the middle button in front.

In keeping with their usual small-run strategy, only 110 of the jackets were produced (half in navy, half in olive), but we’re betting it won’t be too hard to come away with one. They’ve only been on the market a few hours…and £370 is nothing to sneeze at.

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03/27/09
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Labeled

The Old Crew

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The folk at J. Crew have been on quite a hitting streak lately, and it look like they have every intent of keeping it going.

We got our hands on their latest fall catalog, and once again, we’re impressed. There are the usual assortment of old school ties and cardigans that J. Crew made their name on, but this time there’s a more rustic edge too, with a few of the usual easy-iron button-ups traded for chambray workshirts.

As usual, the real gems are in the collaborations. They keep up old collabs with Mackintosh Coats and Alden Shoes, but our favorite is the boots from W. C. Russell Moccasin Company out of Berlin, Wisconson of all places. It would be a pretty good find for a boutique, but for a national brand it’s practically a statement of principles.

Bringing heritage brands onto a larger stage is what the workwear movement is all about…and bringing a bit more chambray into the world isn’t so bad either.

A preview of J. Crew’s fall stock»

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03/26/09
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Labeled

Leaving the Country

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Workwear makes for strange bedfellows.

It wasn’t too long ago the puffy jacket was bette noir among the slim Soho crowds. But after a couple of decades of exile, they’ve finally seen the light on Penfield again. (At least, as long as it’s black.)

This goosedown comes from a collaboration with Rag & Bone that tones down the usual plaids and adds zipoff sleeves, but keeps the same ursine profile that makes usually Penfield coats so much fun. There’s also a hooded model for women and a vest for earlier in the fall, both in similarly monochromatic form. The whole batch hits Rag & Bone stores in august, but if you can’t wait… there’s always the older version.

See the rest of the collab after the jump»

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03/13/09
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Object

Cap and Trade

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Our jones for historical hats is well-documented, but we didn’t realize quite how many gems there were out there.

This wool cap comes from Michigan’s own Stormy Kromer, and boasts a design circa 1903. The upper flap pulls down to cover your ears in particularly brisk moments, but that’s just one of the clever design touches. Our favorite touch is the tie in front, which gives it a turn-of-the-century flair it would be hard to find anywhere else. Best of all, they’re only $30 a pop, making them easy picking for any workwear-minded boutique owners out there.

Although something tells us they won’t be interested in the camo version.

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03/12/09
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Object

Squares

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Watches aren’t all sophistication and nostalgia. Sometimes you have to go with the blocky engineer look of our forefathers.

The EP Martin Cartridge watch takes after the military high-performance watches of the 40s and 50s, with the squared off watchface that later generations pared down. It’s a pretty bold statement, as timepieces go…but it’s as close to the workwear aesthetic as we’ve seen any watch come.

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03/06/09
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Labeled

In Disguise

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As your RSS feed can testify, Blue-collar nostalgia has gotten pretty hot lately. But while actual domestic production may be restricted to a smaller clique of labels, the iconography can still take you places.

Exhibit A: the latest line from BBlessing, a set of henleyed pullovers, dour pea coats, and appropriately gritty fingerless gloves. The sweaters especially bring out the spirit of declinist angst, but on a few items—the plaid dress shirts and tweed-y pants in particular—the BBlessing boys give away their twee origins. Not that we’re complaining; in fact, they’re to be some of the collection’s strongest pieces.

As for the industrial setting, it makes for a pretty striking photoset, but we doubt they’ll be cornering the dockworker demographic any time soon.

See the rest of the line»

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03/05/09
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LinkOut

Madonna, Trends, and Sweet Sweet Freedom

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Not Actually Like a Virgin: Lindsay Lohan continues her tour of glamour girls with Madonna circa 1986. She and Sam would make a pretty good Sid & Nancy, now that you mention it. [Glamour]

Get Your Trends Here!: The spring trend report, hot off the presses. [Men.Style]

Freedom ‘09: Another set of well-worn workwear from Mr. Williams. [A Continuous Lean]

Making Waves: Patagonia’s sustainable model starts to attract some notice. The mountain-climbing part continues to be a bit niche.
[PSFK]

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03/02/09
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Object

Flight Risk

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One of the nice thing about having a particular style is that it lets you turn old staples on their heads.

By now, Daiki Suzuki’s style is pretty well-known. Under the Engineered Garments label, he’s championed simple, trim workwear items from the beginning, and birthed a trend in the process. Now he’s taking on the traditionally bulky leather bomber jacket…and turning into a slim cotton twill jacket that looks like exactly what you’d expect from Suzuki.

Take notes; this is how brands are made.

See Suzuki’s bomber jacket up close»

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02/27/09
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Bad Idea/Good Idea

Quite a Hike

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The wardrobe is a toolbox. You’ve got suits for work (sometimes), a set of lazy Sunday gear, and a whole range in between for wherever you end up. Style isn’t a matter of owning nice things so much as properly diagnosing each situation and gearing up appropriately.

All of which goes a long way towards explaining how hiking boots got to where they are today. You wouldn’t want to wear them to a cocktail party, but if you’ve got a cabin somewhere, it would be hard to do better than these.

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02/26/09
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Object

Shell Game

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As we start to defrost, a good windproof shell can be invaluable—but (with apologies to Patagonia) goretex isn’t doing anyone any favors.

We suggest paraffin-treated cloth, with enough stiffness to keep the sterner gusts at bay. Filson’s Logger Coat has the kind of indestructible toughness that you’d expect from workwear, so it’s just about perfect for days when you aren’t sure what kind of weather you’ll be facing.

And if you feel like pairing it with a mountain-man beard—or the next best thing—you’ve got our blessing.

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02/11/09
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LinkOut

Swimsuits, Construction Sites, and Valentine’s Day Equipment

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Suit Up: A calm, mathematical reaction to the Sports Illustrated swimsuit edition. There’s a first time for everything. [Daily Intel]

Do You Have Anything in Flourescent Yellow?: Esquire gives advice on the best gear to wear on a construction site…and happens to recommend some of our favorite brands. [Esquire]

Protect Your Neck: For no particular reason, the top ten hit jobs in cinematic history. Get ready to see a lot of ruined suits. [Vulture]

Valentine’s Insurance: 10 solid movies about unfulfilled love, just in time to put on your Netflix queue and have in your hands by Saturday. Don’t say you weren’t warned. [TakePart]

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02/03/09
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LinkOut

Eastwood, Workwear, and Lots and Lots of Whisky

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Occasionally Forgiven: Clint Eastwood makes it through a Vanity Fair photoshoot without giving up a nip slip. [Vanity Fair]

Groceries and Liquor: Whisky continues to be a bull market…and it’s not even Friday yet. [Luxist]

Bug Off: Starship Troopers goes the PSA route. [Jezebel]

The Big Time: Workwear comes to the weekly newsmag, courtesy of Michael Williams. [A Continuous Lean]

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01/28/09
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Labeled

Getting Rich

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We were so enamored of Mr. Hart’s vintage Woolrich hunting cap that we almost forgot about the brands more recent exploits. This outfit was pulled from their recent Autumn/Winter 2009 line and it’s as good as anything you’ll run across from their history.

They’ve found their way into Earnest Sewn and Odin in New York and Confederacy and Ron Herman in L.A., so they’re hardly the underdog these days, but it’s nice to know workwear has a few heavy-hitters on its side. They’re even a presence at the Rogues Gallery outlet in Maine…which we guess means they haven’t forgotten their roots.

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01/16/09
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Object

Pane and Counterpane

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Timberland has been turning out solid workwear boots since long before it was popular, but they seem to be taking to the movement remarkably well.

These Counterpane Chukkas (via acquire) aren’t quite ready for a day at the lumber mill, but there are heavier boots for that. These are more akin to what the same mill worker might wear to church: cleaner, but still unmistakably raw.

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01/12/09
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LinkOut

Shiny Suits, Fancy Houses, and the Institution of Marriage

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Flashing Lights: The European take on workwear is more…fluorescent. [International Herald Tribune]

The Knot: Tom Brady and Gisele Bundchen finally make it official. Does this mean they’ll have to stop living in sin? [People]

Mental Sprawl: Forbes counts down the most expensive fictional homes, which is pretty much all we can afford these days. [Forbes]

All Things to All People: Ralph Lauren Rugby, Metropolitan, Michael Williams, and Jared Paul Stern: it’s a Kempt quadfecta! [Luxist]

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01/09/09
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Object

Smocked Up

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Filson gets big-upped as a workwear staple, but it’s rare that you see them in the canvas, so to speak.

The Pursuit Aesthetic was admiring these Double Tin Bibs as the most fun piece of clothing they own, and we have to agree. There’s nothing like a good pair of overalls to buck convention, and it’s the rare bit of workwear that doesn’t run the risk of stifling in warmer weather.

Well played, gentlemen.

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12/30/08
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The Past

Hard Times

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Speaking of workwear, we ran across this snap of a West Virginia family circa 1908 that should give you an idea of what it looked like the first time around. For a long time, this was the uniform for hard times.

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12/30/08
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Labeled

The Engineers

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It’s always nice to see an old friend…

Selectism is sharing a peek at Engineered Garments’ new Spring collection, and it’s interesting as always. The workwear pioneers have moved on from the chaplin-esque bagginess of last year’s spring line to a more modern trim, with a new set of ornate fabrics along for the ride—a few which look like they might be more at home on curtain rods.

But don’t worry: they’re still cutting jackets with an eye towards turn-of-the-century steel workers, and they still do it better than anyone else.

See a few pictures of the line»

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12/16/08
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Object

The Flannel Shoe

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We’ve been pushing Yuketen Boots (and the occasional imitator) for a while now, but it looks like the plaid-fortified work boot may be growing into a full-fledged trend.

These Rehancer boots swap the gray tweed-ish pattern for something closer to flannel, but it’s a familiar look. Unlike normal work boots, these are probably trouble if you wear them with actual flannel…but otherwise it’s just making a woodsy boot even woodsier.

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Style: some people have it, and some neighborhoods really have it. To show you what we mean, we’ve partnered with Cadillac to present Style Shifters—a five-part, in-depth look at what the hippest gents in some of the country’s coolest neighborhoods are wearing now. Our intrepid photographers have roamed the streets in search of the most stylish guys around. Herewith, a few photos of what they found...

New York

Brooklyn

Williamsburg

Williamsburg, Brooklyn, is home to some of the country’s best bars and coolest restaurants—and, of course, some of the best menswear shops in the world. Naturally, you’ll find more than a few stylish individuals perched outside those locations (and no, not all of them are Billyburg hipsters). See what we mean below...

On The Streets: Brooklyn

  • Drew Ledbetter Actor
    Lives: Providence, RI

    Hometown: Chattanooga, TN / Bay Area, CA

    What We Like Drew’s shoes are made by Cole Haan.
  • Drew Ledbetter Actor
    Lives: Providence, RI

    Hometown: Chattanooga, TN / Bay Area, CA

    What We Like Drew’s shoes are made by Cole Haan.
  • Justice Hampton Works for Club Monaco
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Dallas, TX

    What We Like Leave it to a Texan to know that a linen jacket is the perfect bit of outerwear to transition you from spring to summer.
  • Justice Hampton Works for Club Monaco
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Dallas, TX

    What We Like Leave it to a Texan to know that a linen jacket is the perfect bit of outerwear to transition you from spring to summer.
  • Jamie Clawson Runs a leather accessories business (valentinegoods.com)
    Lives: East Village, New York

    Hometown: Cleveland, OH

    What We Like Jamie’s shirt is called the “Expensive” shirt by Wil Fry. Ironically, it goes for about 30 bucks.
  • Jamie Clawson Runs a leather accessories business (valentinegoods.com)
    Lives: East Village, New York

    Hometown: Cleveland, OH

    What We Like Jamie’s shirt is called the “Expensive” shirt by Wil Fry. Ironically, it goes for about 30 bucks.
  • Koppel Verma Researcher at Google
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Cambridge, MA

    What We Like Turns out, the Swiss Army makes more than knives—they also made this jacket (it’s vintage).
  • Koppel Verma Researcher at Google
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Cambridge, MA

    What We Like Turns out, the Swiss Army makes more than knives—they also made this jacket (it’s vintage).
  • Chris Afzal Audio engineer
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Baltimore, MD

    What We Like If you needed any more proof that Brooks Brothers has shed its stodgy image, these shoes should do the trick.
  • Chris Afzal Audio engineer
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Baltimore, MD

    What We Like If you needed any more proof that Brooks Brothers has shed its stodgy image, these shoes should do the trick.
  • Malik Alokpovi Host for a hotel
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Born in Togo, West Africa, but lived in the South of France

    What We Like Malik’s red suede shoes came from A.P.C. Try not to step on them.
  • Malik Alokpovi Host for a hotel
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Born in Togo, West Africa, but lived in the South of France

    What We Like Malik’s red suede shoes came from A.P.C. Try not to step on them.
  • Billy Cadden Musician
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Woodstock, NY

    What We Like Billy’s worn this shirt, which he got at H&M while on tour, at every show since.
  • Billy Cadden Musician
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Woodstock, NY

    What We Like Billy’s worn this shirt, which he got at H&M while on tour, at every show since.
  • Sam Bowstucky Bartender
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Chicago, IL

    What We Like He’s actually on his way to a working audition for a bartending job at the Blind Barber. Good luck, Sam.
  • Sam Bowstucky Bartender
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Chicago, IL

    What We Like He’s actually on his way to a working audition for a bartending job at the Blind Barber. Good luck, Sam.
California

San Francisco

Mission District

Style. The Mission’s got it. Union Square’s got it. But each of them goes about having it in a different way—the Mission rocking a more bohemian coffee shop vibe, Union Square hosting some of the best higher-fashion shops (and shoppers) on the West Coast. We rounded up a few of the most stylish folks from both. Have yourself a gander below…

On The Streets: San Francisco

  • Brian Cunningham Shop clerk
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: Boston, MA

    What We Like The first rule any SF transplant learns: always bring a light coat. Brian sticks with a denim jacket from AllSaints. (Button to taste.)
  • Brian Cunningham Shop clerk
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: Boston, MA

    What We Like The first rule any SF transplant learns: always bring a light coat. Brian sticks with a denim jacket from AllSaints. (Button to taste.)
  • Erik Newton Attorney
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Diego, CA

    What We Like Erik likes to throw on an interesting sport coat with a pocket square and skip the tie—on days he’s not in the courthouse, naturally.
  • Erik Newton Attorney
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Diego, CA

    What We Like Erik likes to throw on an interesting sport coat with a pocket square and skip the tie—on days he’s not in the courthouse, naturally.
  • Jason Moo Banker
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: New York, NY

    What We Like Jason picked up his prized pocket square at his favorite tailor, tucked away in NYC’s NoHo—Michael Andrews Bespoke.
  • Jason Moo Banker
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: New York, NY

    What We Like Jason picked up his prized pocket square at his favorite tailor, tucked away in NYC’s NoHo—Michael Andrews Bespoke.
  • Presyler Galvin Bon vivant
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Francisco, CA

    What We Like A good carry-all bag is a necessity in the city—and you won’t do much better than a Goyard. Extra points for the monogram.
  • Presyler Galvin Bon vivant
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Francisco, CA

    What We Like A good carry-all bag is a necessity in the city—and you won’t do much better than a Goyard. Extra points for the monogram.
  • Randal Ruiz Design student
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Jose, CA

    What We Like Randal fashioned those elbow pads himself—ensuring he’ll never bump into the same blazer anywhere else.
  • Randal Ruiz Design student
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Jose, CA

    What We Like Randal fashioned those elbow pads himself—ensuring he’ll never bump into the same blazer anywhere else.
Florida

Miami

South Beach
June 6

Forget everything you know about Miami style. Today’s Miamian is more LeBron James than Crockett and Tubbs—as you’ll soon see in our next edition of Style Shifters…

Kempt
Style Shifters
Cadillac