This week’s most stylish intel from our brothers-in-arms at UrbanDaddy.
Just when you thought this winter couldn’t get any colder, it gets so cold that you’d seriously consider going outdoors swaddled in a giant wool blanket.
Sadly, that won’t be in style until next winter. But luckily, some of our favorite wool mills—famous for making blankets—also cut that thick wool into shirts and pants and… bucket hats.
It’s easily the most stylish trophy in sports: the Masters’ green jacket.
Coincidentally, a green blazer also happens to be the perfect spring accomplice—especially if you can find one in an airier weave, with softer shoulders and in a less glaring tone than the mostly ceremonial number slung over the winner’s shoulder each April. Luckily, with a little digging, we’ve found a surprisingly plentiful spectrum of solid options out there right now, from pale to Rockham green, Gucci to Woolrich, that you can wear today, without having to beat out Tiger in a shootout down the back nine. (Though we’re not saying you couldn’t.) So, without further ado:
Our love for Americana is well documented, and we’ve already gushed about the incomparable charms of fall golf…
So naturally, we were pleased to learn of a Dallas-based shop combining the two, by the name of Pebble + Pine. It’s one of those ideas that feels novel, but at the same time surprising that it hadn’t been thought of before (the brick-and-mortar shop has been peddling American-made golf paraphernalia to Dallas locals for a few weeks now, but they’ve just launched e-commerce this week).
Think of it as the latest addition to the spate of heritage all-American menswear shops we’ve been seeing, like Chicago’s Haberdash or a permanent version of New York’s Pop Up Flea—but with golf balls. Here, the fleece vests are from Woolrich, the books were written by Ben Hogan and you can even pick up an exclusive cologne scented like moonshine—should your regular 19th hole not provide you with enough.
The heritage ping-pong emporium cannot be far behind.
Storage is never pretty. In fact, we’d probably opt for pocketless pants if we didn’t have all this stuff to carry. Our general rule is, the more discreet, the better. Which is why, for all its military canvas cred, we have to cast a slightly skeptical eye at this Woolrich belt pack.
It bumps hard against the main limit of workwear: you’re not actually a carpenter. (Apologies to any actual carpenters.)
In the case of work boots, it’s fine to have a little more durability than you strictly need. But in the case of this belt pack, it’s hard to avoid the question of what you’ll actually put in them. If the answer is a hammer, a tape measure and roofing nails, then you’re fine. But if the answer involves your iPhone, you might be better off with pockets.
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. just unveiled their fall/winter ’11 lookbook, and it makes for a pretty good clinic in layering now that we’re caught in the chancy limbo between winter and spring.
This gentleman, for example, manages to be thoroughly prepared for mid-March without wearing anything we’d describe as outerwear. The power of a pair of thick wool pants is also not to be underestimated, but the main trick is a scarf long enough for a scarf knot of almost Peskowitzian intricacy. (That means five feet at least.)
If the sun happens to come out in time for his lunch break, he can stash it in his briefcase and hit the streets unburdened. If not, he can button up that jacket and stand up to the last gusts of winter just fine.
More specifically, how you’re going to protect them without losing the ability to turn doorknobs.
Fortunately, the rise of the lumberjack-as-style-icon means you’ve got a uniquely broad swath of cozy gloves to choose from, and most of them can take as much snowball-related punishment as you can dish out. In short, it’s going to be quite a winter.
Thanks to a regrettable stretch of early 90s suiting, the phrase “shawl collar” can call up anxiety in even the most adventurous souls—but it may be time to lower your guard.
Take this heathered Woolrich pullover, for instance. It’s the latest in a recent string of sweaters that are bringing the un-notched flop collar back into circulation. Most importantly, it’s functional. This item will keep your collar warmer than anything this side of a turtleneck, a crucial quality once things get brisk.
As always, job one is to protect your neck.
Daiki Suzuki’s final collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills just arrived at Blackbird, and it’s a pretty spectacular swan song . The watchwords for the season was supposed to be “hunting noir”—which might sound familiar—but the real spectacle is watching one of the key figures of the Americana revival stage one last reinvention.
All of which is to say, those Navajo prints were only the beginning. All the now-standard flannels and plaids get a little extra push into the costumey, and what once seemed like the most conservative trend in fashion enters its baroque period. It’s not particularly wearable, but if you ever need to solve a series of mysterious kidnappings in Portland, ME, you know what to wear.
Outerwear tends to fall into one of two camps: there’s the traditionalists (think toggle coats, tweeds, anything equestrian) and the futurists (goretex, stretch-enhancing weaves, chemically treated waterproofing). So when a collaboration crosses the aisle, it’s usually worth a closer look.
In this case, the workwear cred comes from Woolrich who borrowed some indigo gore-tex from Nanamica for this Mountain Parka. It looks the same from afar, but the inside is goosedown instead of classic cloth, making it both lighter and warmer than you’d expect. Throw in some plaid lining and a few wooden toggles to keep the Americana spirit alive, and nobody’s the wiser. It might be the best of both worlds: retro on the outside, hi-tech on the inside. Take notes.
If you were wondering what the cargo-pant resurgence was all about, here’s a helping hand: It should look something like this.
This field pant from Woolrich Woolen Mills packs bonuses like ripstop fabric and a pleasantly colorful plaid lining, but we’re most concerned with those pouches on the front. It won’t feel too different from jean pockets (give or take a snap), but the look is a pretty big leap forward. And because of the central pleat, you should be able to stash a blackberry in them without throwing off the drape. Eddie Vedder would be proud.
If you want to know what you’re getting in a piece of clothing, designer sketches can tell you a lot more than the average picture. So it only makes sense we’re starting to see a bit more of them.
It’s impressive stuff, as we’ve come to expect from Suzuki, but his designs are also especially well suited to sketching. Without distracting things like color and fabric getting in the way, Suzuki’s patches and curves start to look more mathematical than nostalgic, and the whole enterprise takes on a workmanlike air. Which we’d say is only appropriate.
Apparently Monocle’s exclusive Woolrich Woolen Mills jacket isn’t quite so exclusive after all.
In fact, if you’re willing to settle for a black version (instead of Monocle’s Navy and Olive), you can get exactly the same jacket stateside for $50 less. It’s a bit surprising, since all their previous goods were whipped up just for them. We guess Mr. Suzuki didn’t want to waste any good ideas.
So we guess Monocle’s contribution was picking out a couple fabric swatches?
With Monocle steadily making its way through our favorite brands, it was only a matter of time before they got around to Woolrich Woolen Mills.
The lightweight, unstructured fabric is simple enough, but a closer look shows all kinds of oddball details, from the ticket pocket on the right side to the puzzling cutaway around the middle button in front.
In keeping with their usual small-run strategy, only 110 of the jackets were produced (half in navy, half in olive), but we’re betting it won’t be too hard to come away with one. They’ve only been on the market a few hours…and £370 is nothing to sneeze at.
We were so enamored of Mr. Hart’s vintage Woolrich hunting cap that we almost forgot about the brands more recent exploits. This outfit was pulled from their recent Autumn/Winter 2009 line and it’s as good as anything you’ll run across from their history.
They’ve found their way into Earnest Sewn and Odin in New York and Confederacy and Ron Herman in L.A., so they’re hardly the underdog these days, but it’s nice to know workwear has a few heavy-hitters on its side. They’re even a presence at the Rogues Gallery outlet in Maine…which we guess means they haven’t forgotten their roots.
Vintage lover and Friend-of-Kempt David Hart has been one of our favorite tie men since we saw his scotch-plaid bow ties back in November, but after his UrbanDaddy write-up, we figured it was time to give his wardrobe a closer look.
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