Sunglasses and tweed, gentlemen. Sunglasses and tweed.
Tweed raises strange passions in a man.
So in honor of their latest batch of Donegal tweed suits, the Nolita tailors Seize sur Vingt put together this four-minute short film about passion, betrayal and an unusually versatile suit. (Spoiler: burglary is involved.) Check it out after the jump.
Between this month’s GQ and a certain Internet-breaking lookbook, the turtleneck-under-a-blazer is having a moment. You’ll want to approach this one with caution, but if you can pull it off you’ll be able to get a lot more wear out of any blazers in your closet—and you’ll be spending the next few months with a much warmer neck than the rest of us.
It’s getting brisk enough to break out one of the genuine fall staples: the tweed jacket.
And on the off chance you’re not ready to commit to the Southwick/Harris Tweed version, we’ve got a more casual option ready. The jacket comes from Penny Stock, and it’s a pretty good representation of what the tweeds looked like in Greenwich Village circa 1959. In particular, we’re eyeing the narrow lapels and the single button—just like you’ll see in late-’50s pics of Miles Davis.
Plus, it looks great with a horn.
For a globe-spanning, multi-billion-dollar luxury brand, Ralph Lauren’s pretty good at keeping a secret.
We’re thinking of their heritage-themed RRL brand, which has been their most coveted and rarely seen collection for almost 15 years now. Unless you were lucky enough to stop through Nolita, Georgetown or Malibu on a regular basis, it was rare to see a whole collection in one place.
At the moment they’re in a Scottish phase, so you’ll find Donegal tweeds and Fair Isle cardigans—but there’ll be plenty more as the seasons roll on. And if nothing else, you’ll find a whole lot of handsome ferrotypes.
We’ve got good news and bad news.
The good news is that you’re coming up on a three-day weekend. The bad news is, you’ve got four days left before you’re honor-bound to put your white bucks back on the high shelf. Along with a few other items…
It hits close to home—we did just write a post about sweaters and tweed jackets in 80-degree heat, after all—but we’d like to offer a mild defense of the topsy-turvy fashion calendar.
It’s easy to end up with a fall wardrobe full of grays and browns, so we thought we’d take a moment to celebrate the singular charm of a red sweater underneath a tweed jacket.
This particular snap comes from the French label Ami, who recently unveiled their fall/winter plans, but it’s about as universal as it gets. The classic version of the sweater is J.Press’s Shaggy Dog, which offers anything from Kelly green to teal, but all you really need to do is look out for something thick and bright.
And if you’re going for the full Camelot trifecta, make sure your collar’s buttoned down.
Sometimes, you have to respect an item for delivering exactly what it promises.
In this case, the tweed wallet.
We aren’t about to trade in our beloved leather tri-fold for it, but as a grace note for special occasions—possibly the same special occasions that find you wearing a tweed suit—it would be pretty fantastic.
And we’re always glad to own a little extra Donegal.
We’re just a few days away from September, which means it’s time to brush up on one of the most intricate, subtle skills in menswear: layering. So we’ve distilled a lifetime of layering wisdom into five simple edicts, laid out after the jump. Defy them at your peril…
The leaves have yet to turn, but you can feel the subtle changes happening. Nights are getting cooler. Your urge for selvage denim, stronger. We’re entering the transitional phase between gin fizz weather and spiked cider weather—a phase we like call Pre-Fall.
On any given day, you’ll need to be prepared for a sudden turn for the brisk. So we’ve put together the four key ingredients to keeping warm but not too warm in the weeks upcoming. Mix to taste.
As you might remember, we left the last round of shows buzzing about Riviera Club, and we’ve finally got a few lookbook shots to show you why. On the surface, it’s another line from the workwear mill, but there’s a more than a little continental flair below the surface. (Exhibit A: the porkpied and neckerchiefed gentleman on the right.) Keep an eye out for these when they roll into stores in August.
Here’s the scenario: you’re an maturing scenester, in the thick of promoting your first arthouse lead. It’s a New York screening, which means no black tie and no dress code, but if you show up in a leather jacket, everyone’s going to think you’re a jackass. That never bothered you before, but somehow, this time’s different…
In this case, Steven Dorff went full professor. That means a checked tweed suit and grenadine tie that makes him look like Indiana Jones on the first day of classes. It’s quite possibly the stuffiest thing he’s ever worn. Of course, it helps that it’s a subtle check, the fit is perfect, and the tie is subtle enough to stay under the radar to anyone who might not appreciate such things.
He wears it with more than a little cheek, given his decidedly non-tweedy reputation, but that’s probably about right too. Well played, Mr. Dorff.
Billy Reid just kicked off his fall/winter sale and, perhaps predictably, we’re headed straight for the thickest pair of pants he’s got.
In this case, it’s the autumnal classic known as the herringbone pant. (Take a closer look here.) It’s the lower-body equivalent of the tweed jacket: a rugged, woodsy take on an essentially formal item. That also means it’s thick enough to light a match on—and more importantly, stand up as one of the toughest non-denim trousers in your arsenal.
There’s a matching suit and waistcoat in the wings if you decide to double down. But by our lights you’re better off just pairing it with flannel and boots and comporting yourself in as rustic a manner as possible.
And if you were wondering how that lightly scarfed look works, the heavily tweeded gents at Oliver Spencer were good enough to provide a master class on the subject in their latest lookbook. The big lessons are as follows: find yourself a light jacket, pile on as much texture as you can, and don’t be afraid to go unbuttoned.
Now that we’re headed into prime layering season, it’s worth brushing up on your fundamentals—and see how the pros do it when they’ve got a whole collection at their disposal.
This gentleman, lifted from Wings + Horns Fall/Winter lookbook, pulls it off just about perfectly. The goal is to keep your deep-winter coat in the closet as long as possible, and a good supply of sweaters, scarves and blazers can carry you all the way to Halloween.
The most important item, as you might have guessed, is that jacket. It’s a little professorial, but as you might have guessed from this month’s GQ, that’s not such a bad thing these days. And since older is better in this instance—and the magic words “Harris Tweed” just about assure you’ll get something beautiful—you should be able to find some real treasures in the vintage world. Just know your sizes and don’t be squeamish about taking them to the tailor.
Along with all things mulled, fall brings a bit of an outerwear conundrum: to bundle or not to bundle? Our favored solution is the vintage tweed jacket, recognized worldwide as a staple of bookish gents. And as luck would have it, we’ve found a new source for them.
It’s called Tweedman’s Vintage, an online shop gathering together Harris Tweed blazers, velvet smoking jackets and skinny silk ties—in short, the best British vintage has to offer.
Based out of Cambridgeshire (naturally), the duo behind this online emporium has done a superb job of combing through charity shops and the closets of British grandfathers alike to maintain a variety of impeccably preserved woven relics. They’re the perfect transitional piece for fall—polished and, when paired with your knit of choice, just shy of winter weight.
We can neither confirm nor deny the residual scent of pipe tobacco.
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