A lot of bloggerly ink has been spilled in the excitement over J. Press’s neo-trad capsule collection York Street, helmed by the #menswear golden boys at Ovadia & Sons.
It’s the sort of brilliance that could only happen in the Tumblr age—or by being willed into existence by a small cadre of menswear influencers performing ritualistic dances in some clandestine Ivy League clubhouse. (It could’ve been either, really; we’d rather not comment any further.)
And while it seemed that the stuff would only exist on the Internet, today it all became a reality in a real-life brick-and-mortar shop in NYC—and our friends at UrbanDaddy got us a sneak peek at all the cable-knitted wool and tufted-leather handsomeness. If a trip to the city isn’t in the cards anytime soon, not to worry—all the stuff is available online.
The latest installment in our “coolest people on earth” series, this shot finds Andy Warhol and David Hockney sharing a smoke with a few art critics circa 1963, and running a clinic on how to wear a trench coat. For anyone interested, the print’s headed to auction in a couple weeks.
Now that trench coats are a Times-approved trend, we thought we’d dip back into the raingear scene for one of the more adventurous examples o the classic coat we’ve seen.
This Larke mac is the same treated cotton as the classic mac, but two twists push it forward into sci-fi territory. First is the obvious: it’s electric blue. It’s hard to think of a more trad-averse color. But even more importantly, it’s cut perilously close to the belt line, higher than half the blazers in our closet.
In short, it’s the rebel grandchild of the classic knee-length Mac. Next stop: the most Warhol-esque umbrella you can find.
It looks like Schott's not the only one trying out a lighter take on the classic leather bomber. Behold, Engineered Garments’ Explorer Jacket, a twist on the classic Schott silhouette and fabric straight from a trench coat.
It's good for a couple reasons. First off, it brings the bomber into warm weather with the breathable poplin. It also addresses a certain portability issue that plagued the old, heavyweight Schott—well-known to anyone who's gotten an incidental upper-arm workout from carrying around their bomber all day. This version is lightweight and plays well with suitcases and coat-hooks, which means you may end up getting a lot more wear out of it.
In short, it's a mint green Vespa to the Schott's Ducati.
Looking sharp on a scooter is a surprisingly difficult task, but these two spotless mods pull it off remarkably well, particularly the gent in the trench coat. Just be ready to jet if the rockers show up.
This week’s MOTH finds us digging deep into the internet—a German street style blog, to be specific—to find a punk-inflected Berliner named Felix (note the piercings) who has managed to masquerade a respectable member of square society with the help of a modified vintage Burberry trench. As it happens, that's one of the top brands on eBay and in the vintage hunt in general, and this is a pretty good explanation of why.
Underneath it all, he’s sporting the same gray t-shirt as all the other 21-year-olds in town, but a well-chosen piece of outerwear is enough to elevate the whole thing. And no, that popped collar isn’t fooling anyone.
Dressing for light spring rain can be a bit dicey. Full on raingear seems unseasonal—particularly if you’re expecting some intermittent sun—but nobody looks good soaked.
Fortunately the budding dandy behind Young Man/Old Man is around to show us all how it’s done. This ensemble pairs the quintessential raingear piece—in the form of a vintage, fingertip-length trench coat—with one of the most seasonal spring items, the light blazer. We give him extra points for pulling off the risky khaki-on-khaki gambit, and (as you can see here) not being afraid to leave his knit tie a few inches short of the beltline.
If we’re counting correctly, that’s three pitch-perfect balancing acts in one outfit. Not too shabby, sir.
The trench coat is already one of the more iconic items in the menswear canon, so it hardly needs the ad treatment—but it couldn’t hurt.
Today, Burberry launched a site called Art of the Trench dedicated to classic outerwear piece in all its forms. You can see street style shots from all over—including this one from Mr. Schuman himself—which should give you some ideas on how to style yourself. We prefer a dark navy or black like the gentleman here, but dig around the site and you’ll find plenty of other ideas.
As for the timing, it might have done us a bit more good a few weeks back…but we’re not complaining.
The big black raincoat has fallen out of favor lately, but it only takes a few well-placed tweaks to bring it back into style. In this case, it’s a few extra pockets and few sashlike tweaks around the shoulders.
We recently got a look at Endovanera’s upcoming A/W line and we thought we’d pass along a few of the better items, including this black Mafia Trench. On the heels of an Urban Outfitters collab, the label seems to be growing out of its black-on-black inclinations and into a broader range of styles, including a few nautical pieces.
Who knows; by next season they may even give Pantone a call.
The pea coat has been the formal overcoat of choice for quite some time now. It might be time to give the trench coat another try. Of course, it helps if it’s in black wool instead of Bogart’s usual canvas-colored gabardine.
This one comes from our old Brit friends at b store with a stripped down look, a slim silhouette, and a comfortably bathrobe-like belt. East Coasters might want to sit on it until spring, but it should be a welcome addition by then.
And knowing London, we bet it does pretty well against the rain.
Slam Dunst: Scott Sternberg unveils Spring ’09 for his vanity collection Boy for Band of Outsiders. Everyone’s favorite aloof, hipster blonde whines her way through the sharp but muted looks. [Trend Mill]
Waist Belt Warzone: The crucial debate of updating your trench coat, or keeping some things sacred (for the love!). [Valet]
Because We Love a Trilogy: Part three in A Continuous Lean’s Autumn Look series, wherein the Moncler puffer jacket gets a gentleman’s touch, and we get out our wallets. [ACL]
Ford Made: After four post-Gucci years, a men’s empire and the umpteenth nudie magazine profile, Tom Ford might be making good on that promise to direct a feature film [Marc Malkin]