Buying a jacket’s one of the more complex wardrobe decisions a man can make. There’s the snug shoulder, the placement of the buttons, the lapel width and—to pick a recent menswear hobby horse—padded vs. reconstructed shoulders.
And while that’s all important stuff, there’s something even more crucial that’s gone almost completely unmentioned. And unlike the others, which usually work themselves out among the higher-end brands, it varies wildly depending on where you go. It’s a huge, bold statement that most men don’t even know they’re making.