Every Wednesday we’re giving you a deeper look into what makes the minds behind Kempt tick. We call it: The Kempt Five.
For past couple of years, acetate-framed sunglasses have been thick on the ground. (In fact, you’re probably on your second or third pair by now.)
And sure, there’s good reason for the acetate renaissance—Persols and Wayfarers are undeniably timeless—but they aren’t the end-all, be-all of eyewear. Which is why we’d like to draw your attention back to the metallic end of the sunglass spectrum. The sorts of wire-rimmed shades that were championed by the likes of industrialists and John Lennon. In other words, it’s time to go beyond the acetate.
As enthusiasts of a well-tailored lifestyle, our quest for noteworthy handsomeness knows no bounds. We’ve trekked the farthest reaches; from Ibiza to London to Aoyama and back to bring you our next installment of the international store report. Think Savile Row tailoring, Japanese surf style and American heritage with some Hong Kong-ese topspin.
Last night, New York’s fashion elite flooded Lincoln Center in droves. Miles of silken-draped legs, notched lapels and graciously plunging necklines, all there to celebrate the next evolution of style and suiting at the 32nd installment of the CFDA Awards.
Top honors went to menswear elite Steven Cox and Daniel Silver of Duckie Brown, Michael Bastian and our Man of the Hour, Thom Browne, taking home the title of CFDA’s Menswear Designer of the Year.
He swept the stage, accepting the award kitted out in the very same cropped-suit silhouette for which he is known.
Flashing a little leg will apparently get you everywhere.
As the pictures continue to roll in from Milan, we’ve been pleasantly surprised by the sensibility of it all. Demure backdrops of grays, full shows of clothes you’d wear without hesitation. It was quickly turning into an impeccably dressed snoozefest.
Until Thom Browne showed up for his Moncler Gamme Bleu presentation with a winter forest, a smoke machine and jousting poles—yes, there was jousting on the catwalk. As casual observers of the entire spectacle happening overseas, this is the kind of stuff we’ve been hoping for. Kilts be damned.
High-end fashion designers collaborating with mall brands wasn’t new in 2012, but it definitely made a big impact on menswear this year—the Gaps, the Targets, the H&Ms went all GQ, Odin and Margiela on the average consumer in the past year.
In 2013, we expect even more high-low collaborations. And since we’re essentially menswear soothsayers, we decided to let you know what to look forward to.
It’s finally happened: the camouflage trend has jumped the shark.
It all began innocently enough—the arbiters of the heritage movement began digging deeper into the history of Americana and a trend was born. At first, we were happy to see more bold patterns finding their way into menswear (even if, like the Navajo print before it, there were some lingering issues of decorum). But then labels began using it with wanton disregard: wingtips, backpacks, boardshorts… and then came the all-camo-everything look. We gave the Japanese a pass because, well, we admire their enthusiasm.
But then this photo surfaced on “The Moment” yesterday of Pharrell wearing a camouflage tuxedo jacket with matching shorts (a “shortsedo”?) from Moncler Gamme Bleu. (If we were to guess what his camouflage was hiding him from, we’d venture that it was the bottom half of his pants.)
The suit in question was designed by Thom Browne, which does give the look a bit of leeway toward the fashion-y end of the spectrum. But we must draw a line somewhere. And so, we’re decreeing a moratorium on civilians wearing more than one piece of camo simultaneously. Effective immediately and lasting indefinitely.
Really, we’re not asking for much.
Earlier this year, we brought news of a Thom Browne suit that you could pick up for around a grand. Now, behold: a Thom Browne blazer for 150 clams. (About a tenth of what his stuff usually goes for.)
It’s a product of yet another Target collaboration—this time with Neiman Marcus and some more design-world heavies (part of a holiday collection, so you’ll find some Band of Outsiders cookie cutters amongst the handful of men’s stuff). It’s got the signature Thom Browne schoolboy thing happening and his tricolor stripe in the placket (so you know it’s Thom Browne for Target), but it isn’t made from some odd blend of material—the promise of 100% wool gives us some hope that Browne kept some standards. Naturally, we’ll hold off final judgment till the December 1 release date.
Which, sadly, is one month too late for your “Gangnam Style” costume.
You’ve got less than two days to get ready for some football.
And more essential than any secret dip recipe or fantasy team voodoo, you’re going to need a trusty pair of sweatpants for your long Sundays to come—not to be confused with the Sundays at the bar (seriously, don’t wear these to a bar, to work or to anything other than an absolute emergency High Life restock). So we rounded up the finest specimens of jersey-cotton leg blankets on the market today, for your football enjoyment, depending on your sartorial leanings—from the Anglophile to the couch-styled.
Breaking news: you can now own a Thom Browne suit for about a grand.
Those of you quick on the uptake (or with a WWD subscription) have probably been hearing the mix of excitement and grumbling over Browne’s diffusion line, Thom Grey—promising to skew younger (and less expensive). A photo of a gray varsity jacket was leaked. Speculation ensued. And today the full line was unveiled in the Barneys webshop. It’s what you might expect from Browne’s vision of the budding menswear enthusiast: oxford cloth shirts, a few ties, a pair of stand-out coats that have us looking forward to cooler temps, and a medium gray wool suit with his signature shrunken silhouette and cuffed high-water trousers.
It’s a good place to start. You know, if you’re into that kind of stuff.
Time unveiled their Top 100 fashion icons today, and it’s ugly stuff. Of the full 100, there are about 10 gentlemen whose wardrobe we’d actually like to dig into. Unfortunately, it’s not all James Dean…
It’s not that the list is bad, exactly. It’s just the latest in a long line of stodgy fashion pieces that completely ignore menswear. It’s enough to make you think the last 10 years never happened…
Walk into any shirting outfit (the new J.Crew Ludlow Shop, for instance) and you’re likely to see two different classes of button-up. There’s the soft, casual kind—your oxford shirts, your flannels—and then there’s the iron-ready, stiff-collared dress shirts that dominate the modern business uniform.
In the heady workwear days (say, mid-2008), you might have been inclined to skip the latter category altogether, and a lot of people did. The stiff shirts were boring, the kind of thing bankers wore. But with the rise of Italian style, the dress shirt is suddenly essential again—and there’s a specific look that sets it apart from the banker-ready version. If you were wondering what to wear underneath your Isaia DB, look no further.
Thom Browne made the leap to e-commerce this morning, including everything short of tailoring. (Rightfully, he wants you to get measured in person before you buy a suit.) That means shirts, ties, and, our favorite, the slim cardigans that have become his most distinctive item in recent years. Also, if you had a burning urge for a monolithic leather doctor’s bag, they might be able to hook you up.
It’s easy to forget just how cool Thom Browne can be when he gives it a go. These grainy snaps of Browne’s Black Fleece collection just popped up featuring the same high-water pants and newly high waistlines. And thanks to the black-and-white film, it comes off a lot more mysterious than we’re used to from Thom. Bogey would be proud.
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