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Lovely Luggage, The Hill-side’s GIFbook and the Sartorialist’s Lunch for 25

  • Kempt Staff


Good Baggage: Ryan Plett shows us the proper way to travel: with a spectacular leather duffel bag and equally spectacular company.

Basq’ing: Basquiat was known for turning his apartments into live-in art installations, and it has just been discovered that an ex-girlfriend held on to one, untouched for 30 years.

Hollywood Squares: The Hill-side has just unveiled their latest lookbook in winning fashion: animated GIFs of pocket squares undressing and more cleverness.

Sart and Pepper: The Sartorialist hosts his third epic luncheon for 25 menswear greats. Dapperness and toasting ensue. Cue the video.

The Kempt Guide to the Winter Coat

via Mighty Sword

You can take or leave most of the style advice we dole out. As cool as they are, you don’t need a checked blazer. You don’t need an advice-giving pen. But if you’re living anywhere that sees snow on a regular basis, you’re going to need a winter coat—and you’re going to be living with whichever one you choose for quite a while.

So choose wisely.

And to help you survey the territory, we’ve broken the world’s winter coats into three easy categories and singled out the best items in each one—starting with the most classic item in the bunch, the overcoat...

The three kinds of coat that matter...»

The In-House Sartorialist


Street style blogs have been thick on the ground in the past few years, so it was only a matter of time before retailers got in on the game. Case in point: Uniqlo just launched their own mini-Sartorialist, called Uniqlooks. The subjects are a bit scrappier, but the sun-dappled lensing and Parisian and Manhattan street settings are unmistakably Schuman-esque.

The outfits aren’t quite as high-fashion as the Sartorialist, but the best ones have a certain international bohemianism to them. (Also, pretty French girls.)

There’s only one problem: Uniqlo’s bread-and-butter is cheap staples—your oxford shirt, your gray v-neck, your other pair of jeans, etc.—so they tend to be responsible for the less eye-catching items in the pics. But if that means reminding people how good their pants look under a budget-busting McNairy shirt, it might not be such a bad thing.

Emanuela de Paula Has Never Even Heard of Snow

Glam Life: A kind soul digs up the only five issues of Star, the premiere magazine of early 70s west-coast groupie culture. Looks like it was quite a scene. [Boing Boing]

Sartorial Man: Scott Schuman waxes poetic, gets his hair cut and wears the hell out of an overcoat. [The Sartorialist]

Sock ‘Em: A few of the world’s more colorful socks, in honor of cold ankles. [Unabashedly Prep]

Spiked Bats are the New Axes: Nike Sportswear put together this spiked bat as part of their latest installation. Adidas better watch themselves. [Yimmy Yayo]

A Knot Whose Time Has Come


Valet just did a roundup of scarf knots, ranging from the LA hipster look to the presidential style. Unfortunately, they stayed a little too neutral for our tastes, so we thought we'd toss in our two cents: If you're breaking out the scarf, you can’t go wrong with the slipknot.

The style has been gaining on the usual wraparounds for quite a while now and, for one reason or another, most of the product shots we saw this year found the scarves pulled through in just this way. The slight asymmetry makes just about any outfit more interesting and, more importantly, the front knot protects the throat better than the single loop or formal half-loop. Valet gives the Sartorialist credit, which is certainly due—where do you think we got the picture?—but this one has been building steam in the preppy crowd for quite some time.

Trying to be Amber Heard


Look Back in Amber: DETAILS makes the most of its time with Amber Heard. [DETAILS]

Great Scott: The Sartorialist gives GQ UK some style advice. One highlight: He recommends owning only one pair of jeans. [GQ UK]

Almost Blue: Complex counts down the ten best jeans under $100. Street or no, it’s hard to deny APC. [Complex]

The List: Counting down 50 things being killed by the internet. “Your spare time” didn’t make the list. [Telegraph]

Last Year’s Model


The Sartorialist has spent the past few days recounting a few of his favorite photographers, and it’s surprisingly far from the usual glossy editorial crowd.

Today, Mr. Schumann singled out the Weimar-era lensman August Sander, and while you won’t find his books in any fashion shops just yet, he makes a lot of sense as a proto-Sartorialist. For one, the poses are just about dead on.

Of course, instead of Italian businessmen and West Village doyennes, Sander’s lens seeks out carnival folk and country brass bands. But as luck would have it, they’ve got a pretty decent style of their own.

A few Sander shots»

George Petty Restores Our Faith in the Arts


The Pen is Mightier: The vintage cheesecake art of Mr. George Petty. [Trend.Land]

The Sartorial List: Scott Schuman sits down with DailyIntel. Apparently he’s a Ralph Kramden fan. [DailyIntel]

Mind the Gap: The Gap takes over the New York Stock Exchange, making everyone involved feel a little bit older. [UnBeige]

Phreak Nation: A blind fourteen-year-old summons the wrath of the FBI with the help of a touchtone phone and an obsessive streak. [Rolling Stone]

Katy Perry, Billionaires and Sartorial Hookups


Katydid: Ms. Perry graces the Esquires pages, reveals her secret love for Pat Benetar. Doesn’t that usually happen via karaoke? [Fashion Indie]

One Billion Dollars: There are 1,125 fewer billionaires in America than there were a year ago. Light a candle for them, folks. [Luxist]

There’s No Gossip Like Blog Gossip: The Sartorialist and Garance Doré are now an item. Is there a special blogroll for that? [Cup of Jo]

Who Watches?: The Watchmen movie gathers buzz. And this doesn’t hurt either. [BlackBook]

Getting Loose


One of the brilliant things about personal style is it can float along independent of trends.

Most designers would never let a jacket this baggy onto a runway. But while the rest of the fashion world is busy trimming the sag off their cardigans, this Parisian gentleman is off refining his own rumpled look, thanks to a baggy blazer, a few loose scarves, and a perfectly grizzled beard.

And, for the moment at least, he has a style all to himself.

Seeing and Being Seen


After a while, the Sartorialist-style shots start to blend together, so it was about time someone brought a more personal touch to people watching.

Our candidate is What I Saw Today, which throws a few colored pencils and a playfully sketchy style into the mix. Street style blogs have always aspired to be a kind of notebook for designers, so making one that actually looks like a notebook brings a certain authenticity to the project.

And if it helps a few more people appreciate the subtle texture of a Chesterfield coat…all the better.

Monk Shoes, Job Interviews, and the Collins/Obama Connection


Hearts and Minds: Obama’s no jacket required policy wins over Esquire, may or may not be a Phil Collins reference. [Esquire]

Streets is Watchin’: Monk shoes continue to be awesome. Also, leather gloves. That is all. [The Sartorialist]

On the Job: Job-interview style, courtesy of Men.Style’s infamous vloggers. [The Choosy Beggar]

Prance By: Google accidentally kills a deer. Let’s just pray it was a hybrid car. [Gizmodo]

Mottos, Irons, and the History of the Mustache Trend Piece


Two States: If you needed a map of all 50 state mottos, here you go. A lot of them are really strange. [Cartophilia]

Clapped in Irons: Kempt favorite Scott Schuman ponders the ideal ironing technique. [The Sartorialist]

Going Mad: The threat of Mad Men without show creator Matthew Weiner is apparently real. Zombie Mad Men? Get worried. [Vulture]

Hair of the Dog: An annotated history of the mustache trend piece. [Gawker]

Strapping Lads


The Sartorialist tipped us off to the latest troubling fad among monk-shoed Italians: they’re leaving the straps dangling loose. Of course, we have nothing but love for monk shoes, but to our eyes, that loose strap is just waiting to end up in the mouth of a teething basset hound with a taste for fine leatherwork.

But of course, that doesn’t mean it’s going anywhere. Trends like this rarely follow the usual rules, and assuming the shoe fits well enough to stay on without the strap, there’s nothing to stop the Mediterranean youth from leaving their straps dangling for the better part of the decade.

Think of it as a backwards ballcap for the bespoke set.

Out in the Streets

cunningham_crop.jpgJacob Silberberg for IHT

For all the love—and occasional tough love—we throw The Sartorialist, it’s easy to forget that street style has been around for quite some time.

The Times has a pair of pieces reprinted in the International Herald Tribune today on Bill Cunningham, arguably the progenitor of street photography—at least as far as newspapers are concerned. Cunningham started snapping during World War Two, aided by a well-oiled bicycle and an eye for clothing. Editors had space to fill and Cunningham had content that wasn’t just another society ball.

His files are still mostly unpublished, spanning 60 years of spontaneous style and just waiting for a glossy retrospective from some lucky publisher. But for now we’ll have to rely on Cunningham’s more recent descendents to keep us up to date.

A few choice quotes from the photo pioneer»