Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

A Double-Decker Full of Custom Suits and Cocktails

  • Najib Benouar

In a perfect storm of British rakishness, custom tailor Duncan Quinn has fully kitted out a London double-decker bus with custom suits and cocktails. And he’s on his way to a town near you.

We got a sneak peak at the whole operation last night over a few barrel-aged rum cocktails (yes, those will be along for the ride) in the upstairs speakeasy and were duly impressed with the roominess of the downstairs menswear shop on wheels. The tour began last night in NYC with a three-night stint and will continue in Miami for another three nights starting February 20. It will then make its final stop in LA for another three nights starting March 26. As you can imagine, time and space is limited, so drop Mr. Quinn a line if you’d like to get suited up when he’s in town.

Here are a few more sneak peeks at the magic school bus of handsomeness that will be making the tri-coastal voyage.»

P. Johnson Moves Online

  • Najib Benouar

Today, we come bearing great news for the land of dapperness outside the Pacific Rim: legendary Australian tailor P. Johnson has edged into the e-commerce game.

As you might remember from the latest installment in our ongoing campaign for the summer pocket square (sure, we’re still a month from official summerdom, but there’s no reason you shouldn’t get a head start), we directed you to the newest pochettes from P. Johnson. But until this morning, you wouldn’t have been able to get your hands on them (or the resplendent shantung silk ties, or in-house hangers, for that matter) without an appointment and plane ticket to Melbourne.

The internet has just become a more handsome place.

The Wisdom of P. Johnson Tailors

P. Johnson

Australian tailor Patrick Johnson made his name outfitting some of the most stylish gentlemen in Hong Kong, but as his latest crop of photos proves, he’s got plenty of style on his own.

It’s not a lookbook exactly—he only bothers with pictures every couple of years—but it’s a great reminder of what a sharp tailor can do. If you’re having a suit made any time soon, this is one to bookmark.

Here’s the work of the legendary P. Johnson, and what you can learn from it»

Anna de Rijk is Kicking the World

Let’s Leave He-Man Out of This: How to develop a deep, resonant, profundo voice. It’s the Cadillac of vocalizations. [Art of Manliness]

In the Loop: A profile of a world-class tailor living in Chicago. It’s enough to make you plan a trip. [Simply Refined]

The Speckle: A few fine sweaters to carry you through the remains of autumn. [Men of Habit]

The Brush-Off: A gentleman’s guide to brushing suede. If you have a brush, you’re basically halfway there. [Simple Threads]

Constance Jablonski has an Unorthodox Hairstyle

Catching the Moneyball: Would you like to know what Yogi Berra thinks of Moneyball? Of course you would. [WSJ]

The Raleigh Crowd: Raleigh Denim has been getting into indigo-dipped chambray, to great result. [Selectism]

The Punk Tailor: Tokyo lost one of its more interesting tailors this week. Raise a glass, gentlemen. [neojapanisme]

Nice Suit: Tom Ford is returning as James Bond’s tailor for Skyfall. We were foolish to doubt. [Telegraph]

The Least Important Decision You'll Make With Your Tailor

Tailors

If you’ve had a custom suit made recently, you may have noticed a mind-boggling number of choices piling up in front of you. Would you like contrast threading? Two or six-millimeter pick-stitching? How do you feel about buttonholes?

The decisions are easier to handle with a trusted tailor, but with Web shops opening up left and right, it can be a genuinely befuddling moment. Unless you’ve spent the last few years studying StyleForum, you might not know the coded sartorial meaning of kissing buttonholes or the dozen other affectations swirling around the edges of a custom suit.

So we’re going to explain it all, here and now. The good news is, it’s simpler than you think.

Allow us to elaborate...»

Anderson & Sheppard’s Greatest Hits

There’s a fantastic piece on Anderson & Sheppard in this month’s Vanity Fair, presumably inspired by Graydon Carter’s book on the same. It gives a view of the Savile Row tailoring house from their beginnings in 1906 as a civilian reaction to the military styles that dominated men’s tailoring at the time. Over the next few decades, they more or less invented the modern business suit.

One particular surprise: just like Band of Outsiders and (gulp) Ed Hardy, their path to the top ran through Hollywood. They converted Fred Astaire and a few of his friends, and have never wanted for business since.

So to show you that British drape up close—we’ve put together a few of our favorite pics from Anderson & Sheppard’s first generation of fans, including Gary Cooper, Rudolph Valentino and Laurence Olivier.

See pictures of Anderson & Sheppard at their best…»

Kempt Man of the Hour: Theodore Crispino

Continuing our run of handsome double-breasted suits, we present one Theodore Crispino, with a perfect specimen of the aforementioned suit.

It’s not exactly casual—if he wanted that, he would have worn something you can unbutton—but it’s more of a uniform. In menswear, that’s a pretty good tradeoff. It doesn’t hurt that this one is cut high and tight, and perfectly accessorized with the peeking pocket square and a barely visible polka dot tie. This, gentlemen, is how it’s supposed to look.

Naturally, Mr. Crispino is a tailor, so he designed the suit himself and had it stitched together the legendary and beloved Martin Greenfield. This kind of expertise doesn’t come easy. But if you find yourself commissioning a doubled suit of your own, you could do a lot worse than giving them this picture.

Fixing Up

handwrench_crop.jpg

There’s a Self-Repair Manifesto currently making the rounds among the tech crowd under the familiar slogan, “If you can’t fix it, you don’t own it.” In short, they want you to learn to fix your bike and figure out what Linux is.

For the sake of our pants, we'll skip the axle grease, but it's worth considering what this would mean for your wardrobe.

To start with, you may want to learn to sew...

Allow us to elaborate»