Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

Micro-Alterations: Five Tailoring Tweaks That Can Make a Big Difference

  • Najib Benouar
Micro-Alterations: Five Tailoring Tweaks That Can Make a Big Difference

In a perfect world, we’d all be walking around in bespoke clothing made to our exact dimensions.

But that’s not the case. And even if you visit your local tailor often for the usual hem and taper jobs, there are still some nips and tucks you probably haven’t even been considering—what we like to call “micro-alterations”—that can end up making a big difference.

So call up your tailor and let them know you’ve got a few things to go over next time you’re in the shop...

First Look: Read Wall MTM Lands in NYC

  • Kempt Staff

092314_read-wall-nyc-hed

Our friends at UrbanDaddy New York come bearing good news for anyone in the market for a traditional American-made (to measure) suit in the Big Apple...

Because Read Wall, the Americana-bent menswear label from Washington, DC, has just opened a showroom in the Flatiron District, replete with overstuffed leather couches, bourbon and a fellow named Paul who knows his way around an old-fashioned measuring tape.

And plenty more handsomeness. Take a look after the jump.»

Stylish St. Paddy’s Day Green, Choosing the Best Dry Cleaner and Popping Collars

  • Kempt Staff

Wearing green

Green Is Good: The gents at Esky have your sartorial guide on how to incorporate green into your St. Paddy’s Day wardrobe with aplomb.

Clean Slate: Everything you need to know about dry cleaners and picking the best one nearest you, courtesy of Put This On.

What’s Popping: The Wall Street Journal proclaims the return of the popped collar. Proceed with caution.

Mr. Parker: Port interviews the head tailor at Henry Poole & Co, the storied Savile Row tailoring house that invented the tuxedo jacket and put Winston Churchill in chalk stripes.

Umit Benan, Trussardi and Why It All Matters

  • Najib Benouar

Tussardi

You may have heard the news of the recent split between Umit Benan and Trussardi ringing across #menswear land over the past few days (it only became official yesterday). And while it all sounded like just another power move in the tumultuous business of fashion, anyone with a vested interest in their tailoring—whether or not you’re keeping an eye on the runways—ought to know what it all could mean to them.

A quick dialogue on what went down, and why it even matters.»

Field Report: Bespoken Fall/Winter 2013

Bespoken Clothiers

NYFW barrels into another day. Once again, we traipse across the city to see it, in an indefatigable quest to keep you informed (and show you how stylish future-you could be). Hence, a series of quick-and-dirty posts on as many of the shows as we can get to.

Up next: Bespoken Clothiers.

The Background: Bespoken Clothiers is designed by a couple of buddies who met playing rock and roll—and then went and earned their Savile Row tailoring cred. You can see bits of it in this year’s show, which took place in the dark and dusty library room in the impossibly hip, downest of the downtown venues, the NoMad Hotel (in a room that seemed like a better place to meet your archnemesis than to look at clothes).

The Formula: Formula

Degree of Difficulty: High if you live in a town with less than 100,000 people; low if you go to a lot of independent film premieres.

The Showstoppers: Updated black tie, some beautiful cap-toe boots.

More looks after the jump.»

The Re-Entry

  • Najib Benouar

Jansport backpack collaboration with Benny Gold and Pendleton

But, #Menswear?: The recent shirting predicament of Tumblr founder David Karp and a few words of advice from Esquire.

I Know Neapolitan Tailors on a First-Name Basis: Digging deeper into the secrets behind Wall Street’s affection for high-end tailoring.

Not Dior, Homey: An incomplete history of fashion name-dropping in rap.

Three Is the New Two: A sneak peak at the latest collaboration of 2013 (we’re still waiting on our predictions) between JanSport, Pendleton and Benny Gold.

Chanel Iman Is Waiting for You to Build a Fire

  • Kempt Staff

In the Balance: Some learned menswear wisdom from a filmmaker who’s making a documentary on Italian tailors. [Valet]

If You Like Piña Coladas: A primer on how to treat your fineries after getting caught in the rain. (Don’t just throw them in the closet to get musty.) [Put This On]

It’s Fiddy: A handsome compendium of 50 consciously made gifts under $50. [Well Spent]

Sleigh Ryder’s Anthem: And now, some yuletide caroling from rapper DMX—who has a surprisingly strong grasp of the lyrics to “Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer.” [The Strut]

Camille Rowe Is in Sweater Mode

  • Kempt Staff

[caption id="attachment_25489" align="alignleft" width="217"] via Fashion Faves[/caption]

Field Day: Valet catches up with Left Field founder Christian McCann to talk Americana and rare Japanese tweed. [Valet]

Sight for Sore Eyelets: Mr. Mort takes his fine-tuned eye for vintage to the Manhattan Vintage Gentlemen’s Vintage Show. Vintage-fueled synergy ensues. [Mr. Mort]

Strong Bow: An interview with the newest bow tie maestro on the scene, Otis James. [GQ]

Following Suit: Vulture sits down with a bespoke tailor to learn the recipe for a Bond-worthy suit—one with room for motorcycling and ass-kicking while still looking dapper. [Vulture]

Recapping Fashion Week

  • Najib Benouar

Let’s talk about Fashion Week. While we try to steer clear of the capital-F-ness of it all, there’s plenty of worthwhile menswear happening. So, to recap it all, we’ve scoured the usual boots-on-the-ground suspects to bring you a compendium of everything you need to know about what happened (and what you’ll be wearing in six months). Just the facts.

Without further ado, Kempt presents: your Fashion Week Digest.»