Seems like all of our favorite menswear labels are making stylish workout clothes these days, from
Ovadia & Sons to Suitsupply to Dusk, a sporty new collection launched by the folks at Unis yesterday. (And let’s not forget Todd Snyder’s long-standing collaboration with Champion.)
But with all this handsome athletic wear out there, who’s really using it to work out? That slick windbreaker intended for triathlon training will probably end up logging more hours at brunch tables than on running trails. Of course, that shouldn’t stop you from buying it—you’ll just have to come to terms with the intent of your purchase versus the reality of how you’ll actually use it...
Between shows last week at NYFW: Men’s, we carved out some time to sit down with a few insiders (like Todd Snyder and Jessy Heuvelink, whose interviews we’ve run the past couple days).
Today, we run back the chat we had with Nish de Gruiter, VP of Suitsupply—who’ve nearly single-handedly revolutionized the menswear game since landing on American soil—about their current season, his most coveted item from his days at Cucinelli, what Suitsupply will never make and more.
Welcome back to The Buy Line, where we analyze how the new market forces of menswear—driven by the Internet and the rise of a more savvy consumer—have redefined where the intersection of well-made and well-priced lands.
We’ve noticed a new breed of suit popping up lately, cut from tightly woven, often three-ply wool that’s built to take a few hours of being bunched up in an overhead or seated on a train yet arrive without a wrinkle, ready to be worn to your destination.
You’ve probably noticed your office commute getting gradually warmer by the day. And while the weather is partly to blame, so is your suit.
The answer: a trusty cotton suit. Choose the right one and you’ll have the most versatile thing in your closet this summer—in addition to wearing it when you’d otherwise be sweating in wool, you can also throw the jacket into your weekend mix of polo shirts and chinos when the occasion calls for it.
Even as recently as five years ago, you’d be hard-pressed to find a well-cut suit sourced from an Italian mill without knowing the right tailor and spending at least a grand. But nowadays, thanks to a generally more sophisticated generation of suit wearers (we’d like to take some of the credit for that), globalization and a re-booming business sector, you can get a pretty darn good suit for about 500 bucks. It’s the number we’ve noticed that market forces have settled upon—something we like to call “the buy line.” The same way a good pair of bench-made shoes or a tailored broadcloth dress shirt no longer requires a trip to Savile Row or a small fortune (more on those later down the line).
We recently caught up with Suitsupply’s vice president, Nish de Gruiter, to talk about what he’s digging from the spring/summer collection, the story behind that fantastic pool party lookbook, iconic tailors and more.