Welcome back to The Buy Line, where we analyze how the new market forces of menswear—driven by the Internet and the rise of a more savvy consumer—have redefined where the intersection of well-made and well-priced lands.
We’ve noticed a new breed of suit popping up lately, cut from tightly woven, often three-ply wool that’s built to take a few hours of being bunched up in an overhead or seated on a train yet arrive without a wrinkle, ready to be worn to your destination.
You’ve probably noticed your office commute getting gradually warmer by the day. And while the weather is partly to blame, so is your suit.
The answer: a trusty cotton suit. Choose the right one and you’ll have the most versatile thing in your closet this summer—in addition to wearing it when you’d otherwise be sweating in wool, you can also throw the jacket into your weekend mix of polo shirts and chinos when the occasion calls for it.
Even as recently as five years ago, you’d be hard-pressed to find a well-cut suit sourced from an Italian mill without knowing the right tailor and spending at least a grand. But nowadays, thanks to a generally more sophisticated generation of suit wearers (we’d like to take some of the credit for that), globalization and a re-booming business sector, you can get a pretty darn good suit for about 500 bucks. It’s the number we’ve noticed that market forces have settled upon—something we like to call “the buy line.” The same way a good pair of bench-made shoes or a tailored broadcloth dress shirt no longer requires a trip to Savile Row or a small fortune (more on those later down the line).
We recently caught up with Suitsupply’s vice president, Nish de Gruiter, to talk about what he’s digging from the spring/summer collection, the story behind that fantastic pool party lookbook, iconic tailors and more.
We’ve filtered through all of the online sale noise and graded your best options out there, should you feel inclined to do any menswear browsing this weekend...
For Dapper Leftovers: Quality-meets-price purveyors Suitsupply steeply discount “last season’s last pieces” in their new online outlet, which you can check out with the code EARLYACCESS. Discount: A- Sizes Available: A Selection: A
For Further Layering: As the temperature dips even lower, Wittmore is taking 25% off all sweaters and sweatshirts when you use the code SWEATERS25 at checkout. Discount: B Sizes Available: A- Selection: B+
The trick to spring-summer dressing is pretty much the opposite of fall-winter: the less layers, the better.
And one way to remove a layer while still pulling off a tailored look is to opt for an unlined blazer—preferably in the airiest weave you can find.
The giveaway of a good unlined blazer is the taped seams (our bearded friend here is doing a good job of demonstrating this, by showing the neon-taped interior of his blazer). Most blazers don’t have finished seams because they’ll never see the light of day once the lining has been sewn in. It’s a neat trick—the taped seams—but mostly a good sign of what you should be looking for in a lightweight blazer.