Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

Micro-Alterations: Five Tailoring Tweaks That Can Make a Big Difference

  • Najib Benouar
Micro-Alterations: Five Tailoring Tweaks That Can Make a Big Difference

In a perfect world, we’d all be walking around in bespoke clothing made to our exact dimensions.

But that’s not the case. And even if you visit your local tailor often for the usual hem and taper jobs, there are still some nips and tucks you probably haven’t even been considering—what we like to call “micro-alterations”—that can end up making a big difference.

So call up your tailor and let them know you’ve got a few things to go over next time you’re in the shop...

The Six Cotton Suits to Consider

  • Kempt Staff

062414_Cotton-Suit-Supply-6

You’ve probably noticed your office commute getting gradually warmer by the day. And while the weather is partly to blame, so is your suit.

The answer: a trusty cotton suit. Choose the right one and you’ll have the most versatile thing in your closet this summer—in addition to wearing it when you’d otherwise be sweating in wool, you can also throw the jacket into your weekend mix of polo shirts and chinos when the occasion calls for it.

Herewith, the six cotton suits to consider this summer.»

The Buy Line: $500 Suits

  • Najib Benouar

050814_Knot-Standard-Glenplaid

Menswear has come a long way in the past decade.

Even as recently as five years ago, you’d be hard-pressed to find a well-cut suit sourced from an Italian mill without knowing the right tailor and spending at least a grand. But nowadays, thanks to a generally more sophisticated generation of suit wearers (we’d like to take some of the credit for that), globalization and a re-booming business sector, you can get a pretty darn good suit for about 500 bucks. It’s the number we’ve noticed that market forces have settled upon—something we like to call “the buy line.” The same way a good pair of bench-made shoes or a tailored broadcloth dress shirt no longer requires a trip to Savile Row or a small fortune (more on those later down the line).

But first, let’s get to the suits.»

The Six Hiking Boots for Your Suits

  • Kempt Staff

022414_Boots_3

After we clarified the few times it’s okay to wear hiking boots with suits, we started noticing the look popping up everywhere: Sundance, fashion week, on our way into the office this morning...

And in the event that you’d like to trek into the territory of finishing your buttoned-up look with some ruggedness from the ankles down, we’ve rounded up the 12 best hiking boots for the job. (Do the math.)

Herewith, the six finest pairs of boots for your suits.»

Introducing: The World’s First Bulletproof Suit

  • Caitlin Ganswindt

1112KMT_Bulletproof_Hed

Pop quiz, hot shot: the photo above pictures...

A) A handsome three-piece suit. B) A bespoke suit by Toronto’s top tailor. C) A bulletproof suit. D) All of the above.

If you answered D—well, you probably read the title of this article, and you’re also correct. After months of exhaustively scientific R&D, the gents of Toronto’s Garrison Bespoke have introduced the first-ever three-piece bulletproof suit, and they’re taking orders now.

Check out a by-the-numbers breakdown of what that all means after the jump.»

The Appraisal: Suits with Sneakers

suits-and-sneakers

Some things are best left to the professionals.

Like wearing jorts. Or casual-ing up your daily suit-and-tie routine with some sneakers. Today, we discuss the latter.

A staple of haphazardly dapper rebellion long before modern menswear editors brought it to the mainstream, the suit-sneaker combo is not, in fact, a recent development. (Check out the guy on the right in this iconic image if you don’t believe us.) And when perfected, it’s a look that oozes nonchalant cool. But attempting it (and succeeding) can prove a weighty endeavor for even the most seasoned sartorial veteran...

So before attempting this not-so-easy-footed roguishness on your own, we demand you ask yourself the five following questions:»

Bold Move: Zachary Quinto Wears a T-Shirt with a Three-Piece Suit

  • Najib Benouar

Quinto

In this new series, we analyze the sartorial risks and rewards of the moves taken by men far bolder than your average menswear enthusiast. Results may vary.

Zachary Quinto showed up to the TCA Fox All-Star party in a typically dapper three-piece suit by John Varvatos. Except he ditched the shirt and tie for a plain charcoal T-shirt. That’s right, a T-shirt and three-piece.

To the video replay:»

The Kempt Five: Inaugural Edition

  • Kempt Staff

Fives

You might think we’re all selvage denim and bespoke suits over here at Kempt HQ, and not unfairly so. But we’re starting to think it’s high time you got a bit of a deeper look into what really makes us tick. So starting today, we’re going to give you a piece of our minds.

Actually, more like five pieces.

Every Wednesday from here on out, we’ll present you with five things that we’ve had our wandering eyes on recently. And what defines “things,” you ask? Well, really, nothing is off-limits. Given we find it cool, or interesting, or downright beautiful, it’s got as good of a shot as any of making the list. New collections or gallery shows, a novel we’ve been reading, an album drop or even just a damn fine pair of pants—you’ll see quickly that our interests are as varied as the next guy’s. And it’s time we celebrated that accordingly.

So do us a favor and join us as we introduce our newest, and most personal, weekly feature: The Kempt Five

Kempt Man of the Hour: Joel Edgerton

  • Najib Benouar

Joel Edgerton

It doesn’t get much better than this when it comes to dressing for the equally Mediterranean and glamorous climate of Cannes.

Yesterday, to kick off the cinematic festivities, Joel Edgerton showed up to the inaugural photo call as Cannes personified: an airy off-white suit with peak lapels, a crisp white shirt with collar open, an interesting pocket square and a pair of Wayfarers (he ditched them once the flashbulbs started popping).

Last time we checked in on the Gatsby crew, we were less than thrilled with the turnout, but we’re taking it all back with regards to Edgerton (the charcoal grays from Leo and Tobey still felt a bit out of place) and giving him top MOTH honors.

It’s worth the whole damn bunch of Palme d’Ors put together.

Getting First Shot at FSC’s New Custom Suit

  • Kempt Staff

Freemans

We spend a good deal of time gushing over brightly colored pants and double-breasted blazers, but there’s something to be said for having a good knock-around suit at your disposal.

It’s the workhorse in any modern man’s closet and worth investing a little extra in.

A prime example: the latest custom offering from the neo-rustic Americana-philes at Freemans Sporting Club—exclusively on presale through our friends at UrbanDaddy Perks.

The gents at Freemans spent nearly a year perfecting this 7 oz tropical wool American-made suit in the requisite shade of charcoal gray—and it’s got all the bells and whistles you’d expect, including a fully canvassed jacket. Since it’s a custom deal, you’ll have to be in NYC to meet with FSC’s on-premises master tailor in their bespoke studio... hidden behind an upstairs bookshelf in their eponymous restaurant.

Which will play out a lot like this slick video they’ve put together of the process.»

The Evolution of LeBron’s MVP Style

  • Najib Benouar

LeBron James

It’s good to be king.

LeBron James picked up his fourth NBA MVP trophy over the weekend, wearing a suit as equally spectacular as his feat: a well-cut navy kit featuring a Cucinelli-esque 1.5-breasted jacket with peak lapels (and an unfussy usage of pocket square to boot).

It’s advanced coursework in NBA suiting and shows a marked maturity over the louder, more adventurous stuff we’re seeing at postgame press conferences from the youngsters these days. But James’s style maturation didn’t happen overnight. Looking at the past five years of LeBron’s MVP-dom (stretching back to his stay golden years in Cleveland), the guy has come a long way.

An investigation of the MVP style evolution of LeBron James.»

The Essence of Made in Maine, a Great Deal of Gatsby Covers and the Everyman’s Italian Suit

  • Kempt Staff

Shoes

Maine Objective: We can never resist more handsome shoes from Maine, and Well Spent has the scoop on the state’s latest homegrown shoemakers: New England Outwear Co.

OCD Button Down: Put This On has set out to extol the every virtue of oxford cloth button-down shirts—beginning with some history and some unapologetic gushing. (We trust they’ll do it justice.)

Cover Band: One man spent his entire life collecting 83 years’ worth of The Great Gatsby book covers and it’s one fantastic collection.

Badowers Meaning Good: Valet tracks down a lust-worthy Italian-made suit for under a grand in, of all places, Iowa.