Welcome back to The Buy Line, where we analyze how the new market forces of menswear—driven by the Internet and the rise of a more savvy consumer—have redefined where the intersection of well-made and well-priced lands. And when it comes to made-to-measure shirts, it would appear that the buy line has settled at $125.
With all of the new socially conscious brands out there these days, you can find just about everything your daily wardrobe requires—but you’ve got to know where to look for the more dapper stuff.
That’s where new webshop Accompany comes in. They’ve already done all of the sourcing and vetting for you—meaning you can hop on their site and shop like you would any other webshop, knowing that whatever you end up with will be fulfilling the tenets of social consciousness and handsomeness. In other words, you can’t go wrong.
Twice a year, in six cities, menswear designers, buyers, editorialists and enthusiasts flock to the tailored temple of Capsule Show. Yesterday, the leather-bound steamer trunks and garment bags arrived in droves at New York’s South Street, chock-full of new collections for SS14.
Naturally, Team Kempt hit the pavement (or, you know, carpeted warehouse) of Pier 36 in the name of trend spotting and lesson learning. With over 250 brands in attendance, we thought it best to provide a bit of a highlight reel for our loyal followers.
Camouflage print has been a thing since what feels like the dawn of time. In the past several years, it’s managed to navigate off the hunt/aisles of Wal-Mart to enjoy a bit of love in proper menswear circles.
Each designer has their own spin on the stuff, but we’ve never seen such a unique take as from Gant Rugger with their Arctic Camo E-Z Original Button Down. It just hit their online shop yesterday—here’s what else you need to know.
The Story: The earliest iterations of camo can be seen as far back as the fourth century, when Julius Caesar used a Venetian blue to blend his ships in with the sea during wartime. Since then it’s evolved umpteen times at the hands of everyone from the US Army to Dries Van Noten. This pre-fall number from Gant Rugger takes it one step further, swapping penguins in place of nonsensical color swatches.
Who to Channel: Alan Alda, if the M*A*S*H hospital landed in March of the Penguins instead of the Korean War; the personification of Mr. Popper’s affinity for wildlife.
When to Wear It: It’s a lightweight selvage madras, so anytime between now and early autumn is fitting; occasions of arctic safaris are preferred.
Degree of Difficulty: Medium. It’s tough because, ya know, you’re wearing a penguin shirt. But made easier by the fact that you’ll blend into your surroundings.
Every Wednesday from here on out, we’re giving you a piece of our minds. Actually, more like five pieces. It’s a chance to get a deeper look into what makes the minds behind Kempt tick—you know, beyond the usual Internet handsomeness we’re serving up daily. So welcome to our most personal weekly feature: The Kempt Five.
The Fourth of July is so close, we can nearly taste it.
And we’ve always been of the mind that when it comes to dressing for the most patriotic day of the year, you’ve got permission to get loud. Therefore, to fully commit to the spirit of the day, we’ve rounded up your finest options for donning an all red, white and blue kit—made entirely in the good old US of A, naturally.
The following is taken from the current interior monologue of a Kempt contributor:
“Jesus Christ, it’s humid out there. I’ve sweat through my shirt. I look like one of those basketball coaches on the sidelines when he takes off his jacket. Jesus Christ. Why don’t I keep a spare shirt at the office? Smart guys did that back in the day. Don Draper. William Hurt in Broadcast News. Why don’t I do that? Jesus H. Fucking Christ.”
The 113th US Open went off this weekend, and it had us pining for the glory days of golf fashion. Back when the hair was feathered, the caps were newsboy and the prints were bold.
The ostentatious culture peaked around the time of Caddyshack, but thankfully, some pieces have remained steadfast. Most notably, madras.
The fabric is lightweight, easy to maintain and stays sharp when traditional suiting would fold under wrinkle-inducing humidity. So versatile, you can pretty much find any garment rocking its signature tartans. Hence, we went ahead and found all the gear necessary to don you from head to toe.
But with the warmer, more carefree summer party circuit on the horizon—weddings, society croquet galas, et cetera—you’ve got permission to lighten things up a bit. That means cotton instead of silk, linen instead of cotton and, for the love of all things holy above 90 degrees, not a stitch of velvet in sight. So we’ve rounded up a few lightweight substitutions for your tuxedo routine that will keep you just as dapper through the hotter months to come. No sweat.
Sale season’s in the air, and the second annual summer sample shindig over at Hickoree’s is at the top of our weekend to-do list.
For today and tomorrow only, they’ve turned Floor Two into a pseudo-warehouse pop-up, packed to the beams with overstock and never-produced samples from five stellar NYC brands.
Designers from Stanley & Sons, Left Field, Battenwear, 8.15 August Fifteenth and The Hill-side will all be stopping by the scene, so there’s a pretty good shot you’ll be able to seek styling advice straight from the source.
We swung by last night to check the scene and found everything from swim trunks to trousers, shearling bombers, anoraks, henleys, oxfords, ties, tees and seriously handsome bags, among a host of other gems. They’ve even brought in a rack of goods for the ladies in your life by way of 8.15.
We’re swan-diving into the peak of summer—it’s all piña coladas and steel drums over at Kempt HQ.
Which is probably why we’re feeling this American calico floral print number from the latest just-released-to-the-web collaboration by the boys of Gitman Vintage and The Hill-side. It’s one of five new looks that’ve just landed over at Need Supply Co. Here’s what else you need to know.
The Story: Emil and Sandy Corsillo, the duo behind The Hill-side, searched the depths of Japan’s most sought-after mills for the fabric, which was then sewn into popover excellence right here in the USA by the seasoned hands of Gitman Vintage.
Who to Channel: Think George Harrison circa Lonely Hearts Club, with a shake less psychedelic absurdity and a bit more self-aware style icon à la Russell Westbrook.
When to Wear It: Now feels about right, but these bright-yellow hues will carry you straight into fall when paired with the correct shawl cardigan complement.
Degree of Difficulty: Medium. Though it’s mostly about the attitude. So button up, throw on some shades and hit the ground running.
When we took you inside the NYC shop founded by two Internet-famous menswear pals, it was a feast for the eyes—full of hard-to-find Italian blazers and so on. But the stuff was still mostly unattainable for anyone who couldn’t make it to SoHo. And for a couple of guys who made their bones in the online world of menswear, it left a large portion of Tumblr wondering when CSC would embrace their hashtaggy roots. Now, thanks to their triumphant return to the Internet, the #menswear masses can finally get their hands on all that L.B.M., Bastian and in-house suiting they’ve been craving from afar.