Ladies and gentlemen, Drake’s is on sale. That means a whole crop of classic shantung ties at 30% off. (That brings them down to around $115.) Some great scarves and handkerchiefs too. Good hunting.
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“Scarves”
Here’s one of our favorite affectations of Pitti Uomo so far: the full-body scarf.
It’s bold, sure, but there’s something regal about it, as if the don pictured were about to lead a Roman regiment into battle. The dun-colored sheet works especially well played against a neutral-gray suit with only a slightly more colorful shirt and tie. That makes it one of the more restrained outfits we’ve seen out of Florence this time around, and also one of the sharpest.
It goes to show, there’s more to style than eye-popping colors and prints.
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Winter is a challenge.
As always, you have to maintain your gruff-but-impeccable appearance, but you also have to navigate cold snaps and abruptly unseasonable weekends without getting too bulky. It’s a tightrope.
The good news is, we’ve got three hard-and-fast rules to keep you unencumbered through the season—and able to navigate any unexpectedly warm days that might pop up along the way.
In this country, you gotta make the money first. Then when you get the money, you get the scarves. Then when you get the scarves, you get the women.
(The picture comes from Context; the wisdom comes from Mr. Montana.)
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via Men’s ClubWe love a good scarf. It’s the grace note of a well-dressed man—a sliver of color in a gray season. And since we’ll be wearing one every day once winter ramps up, it’s easy to get emotional about things.
But for all the wisdom and hype in our corner of the blogosphere, there’s really only one thing that matters in finding a good scarf. And it’s definitely not how you tie it…
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via WBEThinking of a Master Plan: A master trad tells you how to plan a day’s outfit. Apparently it helps if you have a manservant. [A Suitable Wardrobe]
Scarf Law: A primer on the proper use of scarves. You’ll notice that none of these gentlemen are wearing turtlenecks. [Men of Habit]
Up on the Mountain: An interview with Dennis Signor, co-founder of Diemme. The man knows his hiking boots. [Proper Magazine]
The Low End Theory: A few quotes from the memoir of Duff McKagan, bassist of GNR. A highlight: “Mick [Jagger] was cool, but his spare sneakers, I’m afraid, were not.” [The Awl]
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Not all scarves are created equal. And while there are plenty of bulky wool mufflers to go around, it might be time to check out the longer, softer, more colorful variety—something we’re calling the Overcoat Scarf.
It’s perfect for the more formal move of looping your scarf on top of your coat collar, usually practiced by mayors and old Italian men. You’ll want the tassels to hang down near your waist, so it’ll have to be a good deal longer than your garden variety flannel—and since it’s laying on top of a more understated coat, you’re free to get colorful.
Our favorite place to find them is Meg Cohen, a small design shop favored by a few of our blogger friends. The scarves are all cashmere, and in understated colors that should blend with any colors that pop up in your overcoat. We’re guessing either black or gray…
It’s been a good day for unconventional belts.
First, Niyi Okuboyejo popped up on The Style Blogger
to show off his own take on the style. It’s flashy, no doubt, but if you find yourself wearing a gray suit outside of work, it’s one of the better ways to broadcast that fact.
Although now that we mention it, there’s at least one better way…»
Consider this a corrective to yesterday’s farewell to spring/summer arms: as you’re stowing away shorts and chambray, you should also be bringing out a few items to help you weather any unexpected briskness that might pop up in the next few weeks.
Specifically, an emergency scarf.
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The Hill-Side’s latest lookbook arrived this afternoon, sketching out their plans for Fall and Winter, and it’s handsome stuff.
The lookbook shows off the same rugged scarves and ties you’d expect with a few new accents for fall. This time around, they’ve also recruited house favorites like David Coggins and Schott Perfecto’s Greg Chapman to model the goods. We’re especially taken by this chap’s floral tie, especially when worn under a faded denim jacket, but there’s plenty more to like after the jump.
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It’s hard to imagine, at the moment, that you’ll ever need a scarf again.
But at some point it will be cold again, and you’ll need something to wrap around your neck and tuck gently between your tweed lapels. Preferably something from Scotland.
Unionmade’s gotten a jump on fall with a shipment of LochCarron scarves, and they’re a useful reminder of how handsome a well-made patch of wool can get. And while we’re usually squeamish about labeling something as “essential,” this is as close as it gets.
Here’s another update on the summer scarf front, this time from the old hands at Columbiaknit. They’re the Oregon shop that handled all the rugby shirts for L.L. Bean and Land’s End back in the good old days, and they’ve become a workwear favorite in the days since.
These scarves are literally cut from the same cloth, making them about as thick as, well, a rugby shirt—and the perfect guard against any summer chills. They’re also about a third the price of the designer options. As for how to work them into everyday wear, we direct you to the tale of the soporific scarf.
via WBEThe Other Icons: Some wisdom on the proper use of style icons, and a few offbeat ones you may not have considered. Maybe you should wear your scarf like Malcolm McLaren… [Esquire]
The Scarf Has Enemies: Or maybe you shouldn’t because you’ll look like a crazy person. [Men’s Flair]
You Had Us At “Uncontrollable Sex Drive”: Our favorite modernist got around, apparently. Here’s a look at Picasso’s mistress. [Vanity Fair]
Nice Shoes: Steven Alan’s doing some handsome things with Keds. [Selectism]
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via WBEThe Weave of Our Lives: A gentleman’s guide to the latest developments in oxford cloth. There have been quite a few. [Valet]
Around the Neck: A trad’s take on the spring scarf. They’re in favor. [A Suitable Wardrobe]
The Same Old Crew: J.Crew’s F/W presentation is pretty handsome. Also, a lot of tucked-in scarves. [Hypebeast]
There Can Be Only Four: The style choices of the final four. [Sports Illustrated]
The tube scarf is moving up in the world.
We spotted this one on the runway at the latest Simon Spurr show, pulled up over the head in a desert-ready arrangement we can only describe as a cowl. Of course, you’ll need an item that’s wide enough to transform into a hood when the need arises, but it could be a clever solution for anyone trying to winterize a suit a few months down the road.
And naturally, going double-breasted wouldn’t hurt.
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Woolrich John Rich & Bros. just unveiled their fall/winter ’11 lookbook, and it makes for a pretty good clinic in layering now that we’re caught in the chancy limbo between winter and spring.
This gentleman, for example, manages to be thoroughly prepared for mid-March without wearing anything we’d describe as outerwear. The power of a pair of thick wool pants is also not to be underestimated, but the main trick is a scarf long enough for a scarf knot of almost Peskowitzian intricacy. (That means five feet at least.)
If the sun happens to come out in time for his lunch break, he can stash it in his briefcase and hit the streets unburdened. If not, he can button up that jacket and stand up to the last gusts of winter just fine.
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This bandana just arrived alongside Gant Rugger’s spring collection, as a more rugged cousin to the summer scarf, and we’re pretty impressed. It’s the kind of Wild One-era flair that’s increasingly hard to find, and works just about anywhere you fit it into your outfit.
Judging by the lookbook, they’re mostly envisioning it as a neckerchief (under the collar, please), but we could also see it as a more rough and tumble pocket square, or an impromptu hat lining if you find yourself in more tropical climes. And, as Glenn O’Brien would hasten to remind us, it makes a great tourniquet.
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The indoor scarf has been one of our favorite sartorial grace notes this winter, but if it’s going to carry into summer, we’re going to need something a bit lighter…
This is our favorite candidate so far, newly arrived from Daiki Suzuki’s final Woolrich Woolen Mills collection. It’s a summer scarf, also known as the rich man’s neckerchief, about the same weight as your lightest summer khakis.
It’s an advanced move, especially with this loud a pattern—it’s a balancing act between Aerosmith and 70s-era ascots—but style favors the bold. Pull it off and you’ll have a comfortable neck and an offbeat outdoorsy vibe to see you through summer. We suggest a soft-shouldered cotton blazer and a European Loop.
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We’ve been poring through Gordon von Steiner’s Japanese street style shots all morning, and we’re very impressed—both with GQ and with Japan as a country. There’s plenty of Navajo print and camo on display, but we were more taken by the shift to bigger scarves and smaller jackets seen here. The gent on the right is basically wearing a blanket over his shoulders to casually transform his leather jacket into a winter coat. You’ll need an extra peg on your coat rack—but otherwise, all it takes is a mild winter day, a few yards of flannel and some courage.
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via Our cardinal rule of style is to dress for the occasion. And when you’re a Vogue Brazil editor on assignment in Art Basel, that means bringing your A-game.
Fortunately, when presented with said challenge, Fabrizio Rollo knocked it out of the park.
The sockless loafers speak for themselves, as does the just-weird-enough chambray tuxedo shirt—so we’ll start with those pants. We haven’t seen double pleats on a fashionista in quite a while, much less wool pants rolled above the ankle, but if you’re dressing for a cold season in a warm climate (like Miami in December or Rio in July) it’s a pretty smart move.
Throw in a summer scarf tied over both the collar and the shirt, and you’re in hall of fame territory. Take notes, gentlemen.
Here’s a revise to that tube scarf we were kicking around previously. Instead of floppy rolls, this Nor’easter scarf gives you a single circle of thick knit wool that’s too stiff to flop over. The result is something like a floating turtleneck. It won’t plug up the gap between your lapels, but if you’re looking to keep the back of your neck warm in the strangest way possible, this is your play.
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Scarves tend to hew to the traditional—whether it’s trad plaid or college stripes—but Hill Side’s latest entry reaches out to a different kind of tradition entirely: the Meiji kind.
It’s made out of Shijira, a summerweight kimono fabric that caught on in Southern Japan in the late 19th century. It breathes like seersucker, but it’s a lot less delicate—making it a pretty good candidate for the early-spring scarf that might end up stuffed in your briefcase if the weather warms up. And if you get a touch of the Seven Samurai look in the bargain, we doubt you’ll complain.
via Models.comScarf it Down: A comprehensive guide to the world’s university scarves. The J.Press ones may be authentic, but they’re a good deal stiffer than anyone outside the Ivy League would put up with. [Valet]
The View from Miami: A survey of Art Basel, courtesy of The Only Art Blog That Matters. [World’s Best Ever]
Knots and Other Weapons: A gentleman’s guide to the Monkey’s Fist knot, excellent for repelling assailants or fashioning a makeshift cufflink with thin string and great dexterity. [A Continuous Lean]
Gotta Wear Shades: Deep thoughts on the campy brilliance that is John Carpenter’s They Live. [WSJ]
via GoaGThere’s a fine line between advanced layering and looking like a homeless person.
Timo Weiland is walking that line.
On a pure design level, the scarf-and-overcoat is the same thing you see on bankers and senators once December rolls around, but on Timo it seems a little more…adventurous. The semi-floral pattern pushes everything off kilter, into strange haute -formal territory where only fashion designers dare to tread. Depending on the lighting, the look changes from businessman to bag lady—exactly the kind of edge most designers are happy to adopt.
And of course, the shaggy beard and bewildered expression only help to sell it all. Anyone who can stay that aloof on a red carpet can wear whatever they want.
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As part of our ongoing commitment to keeping you outfitted for winter, we thought we’d take a moment to appreciate the scarf.
It’s easy to overlook, but increasingly crucial as we move into the arctic parts of the year. And unlike previous entries, this one’s pretty responsive to the styles of the day, in particular the trad, the lumberjack and the sailor. (Choose wisely.)
As for tying it, we’ll just say this: pros use the European Loop.
