September 5, 2008 world of men's style / fashion / grooming RSS

KEMPT

A blog dedicated to the interesting, scandalous, useful and cutting edge in the world of men’s style, fashion and grooming.

TIP US!

PUBLISHER

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

CONTRIBUTORS

Sign up. You'll know what we know.

SIGN UP FOR UPDATES

You'll know what we know.

“Savile Row”
11/05/07 ·

Classic

Sir Hardy Amies' Alphabet

amies

A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care—and then forgotten all about them. Such gems of sartorial wisdom are the hallmark of legendary British clothier Sir Hardy Amies’ 1965 classic ABC of Men’s Fashion—regrettably long out of print. Until now, that is. It’s just been re-issued thanks to a major new fashion exhibition at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum, and men everywhere can benefit from such a stylish lexicon.

Every facet of the well-dressed fellow’s wardrobe is represented, together with a few acid remarks (see Fat Men and Short Men). Hell, Sir Hardy earned a bit of stuffiness; the dashing designer was a British secret agent before setting up shop at 14 Savile Row in 1946, and he went on to design costumes for both Stanley Kubrick and the Queen of England.

—J.P.S.

11/06/07 ·

Filmic

Gangster Wrap

denzel

In American Gangster, Denzel Washington’s up-and-coming Harlem druglord character Frank Lucas eschews the pimp aesthetic in favor of some very sharp suits. On his journey from bumpkin to kingpin, Lucas learns some important sartorial lessons; the quiet, understated elegance of his clothing allows him to pass as a respectable businessman while flashier rivals get picked off by the cops.

—J.P.S.

11/26/07 ·

Current Affairs

Revival of the Fittest

boateng

After a close shave with obsolescence, things are looking up for Savile Row. Ozwald Boateng’s new 6,800-sq.ft. store opening there next month heralds the beginning of what many hope will be a new era for the beleaguered “bespoke couturiers,” who have banded together with local government and landlords to keep the spiritual home of British tailoring alive, Time magazine reports.

Read more about the grand plan…

12/06/07 ·

Scene

Kempt Man of the Hour: Guy Ritchie

Guy Ritchie

Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.

Being married to Madonna must be no picnic, even for a rough and tumble type like Guy Ritchie. He started out as your average yob, then she got him involved in all that quasi-religious claptrap in L.A. and he had to trail around after her in white velour tracksuits carrying the Kabbalah Water.

Since moving back to his native British countryside, however…

12/11/07 ·

Dress Code

Get Carter

Graydon Carter

Photography: Patrick McMullan

Curiously-coiffed Vanity Fair editor E. Graydon Carter has finally revealed the secret to Spy magazine’s success—and no, it wasn’t the invention of snark.

As we might have guessed, the key lay in looking the part. “Because we were small and because we were scrappy, I made a very conscious effort to wear a suit and tie to work every day,” Carter tells the London Guardian in a just-published profile. “You can get away with a lot more if you look like a junior part of the establishment than if you look like a renegade.”

Good advice for all you would-be rebels out there »

02/21/08 ·

Classic

Having a Row

savile_row_crop.jpg

Usually when someone uses the phrase “old school,” they don’t have a specific place in mind, but when it comes to tailoring you can pin it down to a single street. Savile Row in London has been the go-to spot for bespokery since the days of the empire, and anywhere you happen to be fitted—even in Hong Kong or Dubai—it’s likely that most of your suit’s flourishes started out in the West End.

Of course, just like the empire, the Row has had some hard times lately»

03/26/08 ·

Scene

Kempt Man of the Hour: Jonathan Rhys Meyers

MOTH_rhysmeyers_crop.jpg

Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.

He creeped us out in Match Point and modeled for Versace and Hugo Boss before embarking on his latest role—a kind of priapic, po-mo Henry VIII in The Tudors—but Irish actor Jonathan Rhys Meyers has always won full marks for his stylish attire.

At the Tudors premiere the other night, he sported an ensemble that had an almost Rockabilly look to it: a midnight blue dress suit with satin piping on the lapels—custom-tailored by John Galliano—and a superskinny leather tie by Camilla Staerk.

More on Mr. Rhys Meyers»

04/14/08 ·

Scene

Le Sikh, C'est Chic

MOTH_waris2_crop.jpg

Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.

Ask, and ye shall receive: an extra helping of MOTH star Waris Ahluwalia for your viewing pleasure, that is. Our favorite beturbaned member of the bon ton is pictured here with gal-about-town Jessica Joffe at a Theory party for artist David Ellis the other night.

More on Waris and Jessica»

04/25/08 ·

Scene

Kempt Man of the Hour: Graydon Carter

MOTH_graydon_crop.jpg

Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.

A few months ago we appealed to Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter—in an avuncular fashion—to discard the double-breasted suits which added an unflattering layer to his majestic midsection; the wrong kind of camouflage, if you will.

He has apparently taken our advice to heart»

05/01/08 ·

Across the Sea

Tweed for the Masses

tweed_crop.jpg

Savile Row is rightly known as the world center of tailoring, but too often the attention falls on the expert cuts—which you can get a good-enough approximation of in Hong Kong or New York—rather than the heirloom fabrics that usually don’t travel farther than one shop.

Luckily, the internet comes to us all. And apparently so does tweed»