Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

If A River Runs Through It Were a Pop-Up Shop

  • Najib Benouar

010914_Fishing_HED

Our friends over at the UrbanDaddy San Francisco bureau tipped us off to a rugged new development at men’s shop Wingtip called Lost Coast Outfitters.

It’s a fly-fishing pop-up shop manned by a fellow named George who is hell-bent on turning would-be bench-made shoe purchasers into master fishermen. The menswear-y fishing hole is stocked with everything you need, from hearty flannels to fly reels—he’ll even repair your old gear if necessary. So the next time you’re in SF and stop into Wingtip for a fitting on a Southwick suit or to get a quick haircut and a sip of whiskey, you might just walk out with a new pair of Simms waders and a fishing rod. And a few tips on where to ply your craft—or, if you’re looking to learn, he’ll set you up at Golden Gate Casting Club. (George is the president and a member.)

And we’ve got your first look at what has to be the handsomest fly-fishing shop on earth, right here...»

The Manifest Destiny of Northern Grade

  • Caitlin Ganswindt

Northern Grade

Our friends at UrbanDaddy have tipped us off to the westward expansion of Chicago’s notoriously dapper heritage pop-up market, Northern Grade.

They’re setting up shop in the Bay Area this weekend, and it’s fixing to be the stuff from which sartorial dreams are born. Think raw selvage denim from Cone Mills by way of Tellason, Horween leather riveted into exceptionalism by the gents of Rancourt & Co. and just about all the chambray button-ups and oxford suiting a man’s closet should require.

So if you’re in the San Francisco area, stop by. Have a drink. Eat a pizza. And procure some new duds from the top purveyors of Made-in-the-USA handsomeness.

Slightly inebriated menswear browsing is the best kind of menswear browsing.

Your New Watch for Spring

  • Najib Benouar

Xetum

Now that you’ve swapped out the wools and tweeds in your closet for cottons and linens, you should be thinking of doing the same with your wrist—which means tucking away the croc-leather-strapped watch for something with a sportier rubber or NATO strap.

And, like clockwork, the up-and-coming watchmaker Xetum is unveiling their latest warm-weather-ready line of watches today, named the Kendrick.

The San Francisco–based watch company (so, yes, they do use environment-friendly processes) has been making a name for itself by building smart, well-made timepieces using the same Swiss automatic movements you’ll find under the very recognizable dials of watches priced many times what they’re asking. The Kendrick’s auto-inspired dials translate to a simple, readable and classic look—that should set you apart from the sea of quartz field watches you’ll find at your local J.Crew. The choice between rubber and NATO strap is yours to make. You’ll want to see the combinations first.

So get a closer look after the jump.»

The Five Gallery Shows to Visit on a Rainy Day

  • Najib Benouar

Gallery

We’re headed into the lamb end of March, which means most of the Northern Hemisphere is beginning to feel the early stages of spring fever.

But that doesn’t mean the weather is going to cooperate with your every urge to get outdoors just yet—and our favorite way to weather the unexpectedly overcast weekend day: visit an art gallery.

Sure, it’s not exactly an idyllic picnic in the park, but you’re still getting all the benefits of a leisurely weekend stroll—salvaging any date plans that might have been rained on—and adding to your ever-expanding worldliness while you’re at it. So, to that end, we surveyed the spring exhibitions opening in a city near you (also: Hong Kong) and found the five you’ll want to know about the next time you need some last-minute shelter from the elements.

Bookmark this list for a rainy day (or any day artiness strikes).»

Spielberg Takes On Napoleon, Meeting Hemingway’s Nemesis and Menswear Gets Knocked Off

  • Kempt Staff

Barnaby Conrad

After Abe: Reports are surfacing that Steven Spielberg’s next massive filmic undertaking will be repurposing Stanley Kubrick’s famously beleaguered Napoleon biopic.

Barnaby’s Jones: A chance meeting with Barnaby Conrad, the “bon vivantiest bon vivant writer” and bullfighter (and thorn in Hemingway’s side) makes for some fantastic yarn-spinning.

Willie’s World: If you weren’t already impressed by Put This On’s eBay-scouring skills, get a load of this trove of vintage menswear they found, owned by former SF mayor Willie Brown.

For the Soggy Gentleman: Four Pins uncovers menswear’s most impressive/egregious knockoff site—replete with faux Isaia choral pins.

Dear Gawker: Unionmade Is Just the Beginning

  • Kempt Staff

On Friday, Gawker caused an uproar when they realized one of the pillars of rustic #menswear, Unionmade, was actually the name of a men’s shop in San Francisco and not a place to buy goods solely made by unionized laborers. We’ll overlook the fact that they’re three years late to the party (the shop opened in 2009) and say this: we’re outraged, too. And this isn’t the first time we’ve been bamboozled by shrewd corporate name-jockeying. (An Apple Store that doesn’t sell apples? Come on!) And we can’t keep quiet any longer...

Herewith, an airing of grievances with stores who promised us one thing, only to disappoint us with another (while dangling free shipping if we upgraded to Prime).»

Kendal Schuler Has Fashioned a Hair-Visor

  • Kempt Staff

via Worlds Best Ever

Leather Lather: Valet’s school of leather continues with a course on cleaning, conditioning and waterproofing your prized cowhide. [Valet]

Before They Got Big: Hipsters have finally arrived in China; they’re calling them wenqing. (Now you can say you knew about them before everyone else.) [The Atlantic]

What’s Beef: Everything you ever wanted to know about the mythical burger chain out west, In-N-Out Burger. [Gear Patrol]

Don’t Rain on My Parade: Recapping the oddities of yesterday’s aptly timed SF Giants World Series Parade. [Grantland]

It’s Wear Your Baseball Cap to Work Day...

  • Najib Benouar

We normally don’t recommend wearing a baseball cap during the week unless you’re within a 100-yard radius of a ballpark, doing yard work or a celebrity trying to sneak in a quiet lunch. But there’s one time we’ll make an exception: when your baseball team has won the World Series.

That means that this year, today only, San Francisco Giants ball caps are fair game with everything from chambray to Italian wool. You’ve earned it—by keeping the faith through all the slumps, by your gut and determination during the extra innings of fried appetizer platters, and mostly by no hard work of your own—just don’t think you can get away with the hat for the rest of the week.

Coincidentally, it’s also the only day of the year you can wear an orange bow tie.

Barbara di Creddo Has Broken Her Sauna

Barbara di Creddovia Fashion Gone Rogue

A Man with a TV Camera: A sober appreciation of Mike Wallace as a television personality, and above all, a master interviewer. Great stuff here. [Daily Intel]

On the Coast: Some handsome menswear, snapped on the Northern California coastline. Wish we were there. [Two Inch Cuffs]

Here, There, Everywhere: A road trip, as seen through a few dozen impromptu photos. [Secret Forts]

Best Foot Forward: One man’s journey into the decadent underworld of expensive socks. The $200 Zimmerli cashmere pair is like cocaine for your toes. [Slate]