Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

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Reka Ebergenyi is Taking Up Arms Against Her Oppressors

On the Road: In case Vanity Fair’s longform exploration of Randy Quaid’s breakdown is too slow, here are the highlights. [Vulture]

Thicker Than Most: Rugby still makes a hell of a wool pant. [The Bengal Stripe]

Right in the Kisser: The art and science of making the perfect snowball. As snow-pacifists, we urge you to consider your other options for conflict resolution. [The Art of Manliness]

Strange, Even By Balloon Standards: A detailed look of Takashi Murakami’s appearance in the Macy’s Thanksgiving Parade. [If It’s Hip It’s Here]

Aging Gracefully

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We ran across this short collared oxford in Gant’s 60 year Anniversary catalog, and we couldn’t help indulging a little nostalgia. Dubbed the “Rugger,” it debuted in the early 70s and finding its way back into stores (specifically Barneys flagships and New York’s Gant outpost) on the heels of the brand’s 60th Anniversary.

But for a shirt that’s pushing 40, it’s handling the years pretty gracefully. It’s a combination of the oxford and the rugby shirt, both longtime staples of the Gant catalog, but the last few years of Americana-fiddling make it look strangely adventurous. That white placket, for instance, wouldn’t look too out of place at a Gilded Age show. Fortunately for the price point, Gant got there first.

Shiny Suits, Fancy Houses, and the Institution of Marriage

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Flashing Lights: The European take on workwear is more…fluorescent. [International Herald Tribune]

The Knot: Tom Brady and Gisele Bundchen finally make it official. Does this mean they’ll have to stop living in sin? [People]

Mental Sprawl: Forbes counts down the most expensive fictional homes, which is pretty much all we can afford these days. [Forbes]

All Things to All People: Ralph Lauren Rugby, Metropolitan, Michael Williams, and Jared Paul Stern: it’s a Kempt quadfecta! [Luxist]

Stalking Denim, Nasty Stockings and a Tiger Never Changes its Stripes

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Stimulating Ideas: Claudia Schiffer and Joseph Gordon-Levitt reenact Buñuel’s *Belle de Jour* in this month’s GQ. So *that’s* why foreign film is important. [Men.Style]

The Wait is Over: At long last, Zubaz pants are back in vogue. Huzzah! [Star Tribune]

"Sock-Gate": England's Health Secretary has a lot to learn about proper foot care. [Peterborourgh Today]

Big Game: Join a denim hunter on the trail. [PSFK]

Down Market: The gathering financial storm probably won't make it easier to get dinner reservations at New York's better restaurants, but at least your waiter will have a MBA from Wharton. [NYT]

A Pinch of Saffron: Look, we're as confused about aesthetic and practical value of these "T Takes" mini-movies over at The Moment Blog as the rest of you. But this one here has Saffron Burrows, so... [The Moment]

Dapper Data: We're backing up to this leather-bound hard drive. [Crave]

Poking Holes: A blogger vents his three-button rage. [Permanent Style]

Spring Scrum: Enjoy this preview of Ralph Lauren's latest Rugby collection. [Rugby]

Ralph's Rugby Scrum

  • Jared Paul Stern

Rugby Shirt

The 100-year-old company that invented the rugby shirt has something to say about Ralph Lauren's attempted hijacking of the game. Canterbury of New Zealand, established in 1904, made the first rugby jersey for a friend of one of the founders, an avid player. The rest was sartorial history. Fast forward to 2005, when Lauren launched his Rugby line replete with skull and crossbones imagery lifted from the team insignia of British educational landmark the Rugby School, where the sport was first played in 1823.

Canterbury, in the midst of beefing up its own off-field offerings and inking an exclusive licensing deal with the school, was beaten at its own game, so to speak »

Initial Thoughts

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"All mankind is running to monograms this year," wrote the New York Times Style section in June, 1902 (click for the fin-de-si‚àö¬Æcle puff piece.) Apparently, monograms were the pants or ties of the age. Since then, what originated with the crests of kings became a not-so-subtle talisman of status more than style, practical in white-collar and dry-cleaning Post-War days and was eventually almost extinguished by the rise of the logo. Granted, monograms have been mostly the provenance of oil-executives since the Patrick Bateman era, but that's no reason not to dapple in initialization…