It’s been a good while since we checked in with our vintage watch guy—everyone should have one—and from time to time we like to drop him a line to gauge the trade winds of the vintage market. But, more importantly, to see if he’s got anything especially spectacular hiding away in his big metal safe of curios at the moment.
Naturally, he did: a 1970s “Double Red” Rolex Sea-Dweller.
Chunky diving watches are still having a moment, yet most of the Rolexes you see out there are Submariners—this one’s a Sea-Dweller, which has a higher depth rating and a helium release valve that releases gas pressure at extreme depths. Though what really sets this timepiece apart from the ones you’ll find on #menswear wrists everywhere is the badge. Sure, it’s just two lines of red print, but it’s a rarity that watch aficionados look for and will pay dearly for (upwards of 20 grand).
If that includes you, as always, get in touch and we’ll let our watch guy know.
Behold: the vintage Rolex of silk knit ties.
The horology-obsessed gents over at Hodinkee have just teamed up with the perennially dapper tie makers Drake’s London to come up with two limited-edition ties based on some legendary Rolexes. Our favorite of the two is this matte gray tie with creamy polka dots that mimic the way the dial and hands of a 1972 Reference 5512 Rolex Submariner have faded. They’re available for preorder now, but you can get first crack at them this weekend in NYC during the Pop Up Flea—the mythical bazaar of menswear co-helmed by our very own editorial director…
Stay tuned for more on what to expect from the guaranteed-to-be-epic PUF V, tomorrow…
It would be remiss of us not to point you in the direction of this handsome bounty of vintage Rolexes that has just landed over at UrbanDaddy Perks—so you can expect the watches to be selling at under market value. Of the spectacular selection, we’re particularly fond of this autumnally brown leather-strapped ’60s Datejust, this quintessential starter-Rolex Air-King with Jubilee band or this Pepsi-bezel GMT Master. All great choices among the many outstanding options. And perfect timing for adding some stateliness to your wrist for the upcoming holiday party circuit.
We love a good vintage watch, but sometimes finding the ideal specimen requires a good deal of legwork.
But if you happen to be in the market for a vintage Rolex Submariner, look no further than this 1968 beauty (part of a spectacular cache of vintage Rolexes and Omegas over at UrbanDaddy Perks). A classic Ref. 5513—the same one worn by James Bond in Live and Let Die—this would be a handsome addition/start to any collection. And thanks to a quirk on the dial that displays the depth rating in meters before feet (one of the many subtle rarities that aficionados obsess over), this particular watch is even more collectible.
Now to find yourself a young Jane Seymour to match.
Most of the vintage Rolex trade specializes in ’60s-era divers, but there’s plenty of good wrist candy to be found in the ’30s, ’40s and ’50s, too—and some prime examples are coming up for auction at Bonhams next week.
This ’50s-era Oyster is a prime example—the wrist-wear equivalent of a gray flannel suit—but there’s plenty more, like this ’40s manual-wind or a 9-karat gold Oyster from 1936. They don’t quite have the James Bond vibe you’d get from a GMT, but we wouldn’t be surprised if we saw one of these on M.
We’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: the best watch deals all come from auction houses. So we were thrilled to see a new batch coming to Rockefeller Center later this month. Our favorites so far are this square Patek Philippe (circa 1929), a Longines military watch made just after the close of WWII and this 1965 Rolex GMT-Master. You’ve got two weeks to raise the funds.
Ladies and gentlemen, James Bond’s Rolex has come up for auction.
Specifically, it’s the Submariner from Live and Let Die that managed to saw through Roger Moore’s shackles in the climactic moment—and it’s coming to Christies in just under a month.
That rotating sawtooth bezel is real, although we wouldn’t count on it sawing through any ropes. (You can see from the rear face how they pulled off the trick.) The watch spent the last four decades with the film’s production designer, Syd Cain, and is only seeing the light of day now.
If you’re already burned out on Submariners, you’ll also find a Paul Newman Daytona and a million-dollar pink gold Patek Phillipe—but we doubt either one will be much use when you’re hovering over a shark tank.
If you’re going to get into the vintage watch game, there’s one thing you’ll want to have above all else: a trusty watch guy.
Naturally, we’ve got one. He runs a little shop of vintage rarities (selling everything from outdated US currency to watch/lighter hybrids) but most of all, he’s got one stellar cache of watches. That includes the original James Bond Rolex—the 1956 Submariner model that Connery wore in the film Dr. No—but the watch that caught our eye this time around was a 1955 Rolex GMT Master.
This watch is the original model and design commissioned by Pan Am—so their pilots could keep tabs on their current time zone and GMT, the official recording time for aviation—and is most recognizable by the outer two-tone bezel (to distinguish AM from PM.)
Aside from being a historically significant piece, what really sets this GMT apart is how handsomely it’s aged. The dial, once a matte black “gilt dial” has developed an incredible iridescent greenish brown hue over the past 60 years of use and wear. It’s the kind of stuff to look for in a vintage watch.
And if you happen to be in the market for a $20,000 Rolie, drop us an email and we’ll see what we can do.
Last night saw a pretty serious menswear face-off on in the midst of Paris Fashion Week, hosted by GrandLife and the Burkman Brothers and boasting an impressive number of leather jackets in attendance. Our favorite was found on Anthony Landerau, the director of European sales for Marc Jacobs and a man who knows his way around an accessory.
The main event here is the low-key bowtie, one of the more understated specimens we’ve seen. Together with the club-collared shirt, it’s playing the small-and-tweedy counterpart to the Indiana Jones-style jacket. Add in a classic Rolex on one wrist and a Kissi-esque wristband on the other and you’ve got a pretty complex salad of styles. Fortunately, he’s at the right party for it.
*Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.*
So far Fashion Week has been pretty much of a disappointment sartorially; blame it on the morons who decided to hold the thing in the middle of February, when inclement weather dictates that one must choose comfort over style, like it or not.
Still, we’ve seen a couple of standouts at the various shows and parties; first up, natty Nigel Barker, the London-born photographer and *America’s Next Top Model* judge, pictured here at the Betsey Johnson show with fashion maven Mary Alice Stephenson.
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