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Gateway Pleats: The Five Pleated Pants to Consider

  • Najib Benouar


Ever since our cautionary endorsement of pleated pants, we’ve been seeing more and more pinched-fronts popping up in fashion week presentations and the more advanced menswear circles.

Mind you, these aren’t the billowing taupe eyesores of yesterday—this new breed of pleated pants somehow manages to look streamlined while also adding a bit of extra movement. (Which, really, was the original intent of pleats.) It’s tough to know where it all went wrong for pleats, but it’s nice to know that things are going right again. So, should you dare to embark on this next-level sartorial shit...

Here are the five pleated pants to consider as your jumping-off point...»

Pleats: Eight Visual Arguments in Favor

Fred Astaire

For those about to pleat, we salute you.

We also caution you: you’re about to embark on some next-level sartorial shit here. On this, the first day of November in the year of our lord 2013, pleats are in an awkward stage—formerly loved, formerly loathed, now somewhere in between. Wearing them now means you’re either wildly ahead of the curve, or so far behind the curve you don’t really know what you’re doing (in which case, you’re probably not reading Kempt).

But if you’ve been thinking of wading into the great, billowy sea of pleats, we implore you to stop, look (at these iconic men wearing pleats) and listen (to the style secrets these photos provide).

Behold, eight visual arguments in favor of pleats (including one above from Mr. Astaire).»

The Wisdom of Take Ivy, Congolese Dandies and the Return of the Pleated Pant

  • Kempt Staff

Congolese Dandies

Talk Ivy: Ivy Style sits down with Toshiyuki Kurosu, one of the creators of the legendary menswear book Take Ivy.

Congo Line: Discovering the lesser-known subculture of Congolese dandies, better known as Les Sapeurs.

Yes, Pleats: Esquire talks to Unis designer Eunice Lee about the return of pleated pants.

Fabulous ’40s: Financial Times pens an ode to 1940s menswear in their latest editorial.

Models and the Art of the Champagne Celebration

  • Kempt Staff

via Poppin’ Bottles with Models

The Magic Number: The seven things you’re better off buying secondhand rather than new—from vintage watches to cashmere. [Put This On]

Pleat the Fifth: The Wall Street Journal is summoning the return of the pleated pant. [WSJ]

Gratuity Included: The kind souls at Complex have found the 20 most gratuitous movie scenes wherein two ladies get extra-friendly with one another. [Complex]

Working It: The story behind those Paul Ryan workout photos that Time leaked. (Some people will do anything for a “Person of the Year” nod.) [Washington Post]

The Chambray Suit


Billy Reid’s been busy.

His broken-in take on the K-Swiss sneaker arrives tomorrow (apparently he’s been wearing them for years), but we’re even more impressive by the seven items that just arrived at J.Crew. Our favorite of the bunch is a fantastic chambray suit that boasts an extra pair of patch pockets and a few genteel pleats on the pants.

If you were looking for something to wear to the Kentucky Derby, we’d say you’ve found your man.

Ileana Bernardini is Just Warming Up

The Old Stuff: The best vintage store in the world is in Tokyo, filled with furniture and military clothes from the States. But somehow, it’s cooler there. [A Continuous Lean]

Quilted, Northern: Rogues Gallery makes their illustrious return with a new set of wool vests and liner coats. [Sartorially Inclined]

Ladies…: A whimsical photoset of Edwardian-era ladies engaged in the sports of the day. [World in Sport]

The Prosecution Rests: Thickly pleated pants are a threat both to the modern silhouette and to national security. [The Local]

Pleats Cannot Be Stopped; You Can Only Hope to Contain Them


The Swedes are Different From You and I: The Swedish press continues to supply us with artful cheesecake. [Refinery29

The Grand Design: The National Design Awards are upon us once more, bearing overwrought chess sets and a warehouse full of weird looking cars. [Material Interest]

The Magic Number: A rundown on three piece suits, specifically whether or not vests should have lapels. High level stuff. [Esquire]

Please Pleat Me: Like disco, pleats are back with a semi-ironic vengeance. [WWD]