Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

Gateway Pleats: The Five Pleated Pants to Consider

  • Najib Benouar

042414_Loro-Piana-Pleated-Pant

Ever since our cautionary endorsement of pleated pants, we’ve been seeing more and more pinched-fronts popping up in fashion week presentations and the more advanced menswear circles.

Mind you, these aren’t the billowing taupe eyesores of yesterday—this new breed of pleated pants somehow manages to look streamlined while also adding a bit of extra movement. (Which, really, was the original intent of pleats.) It’s tough to know where it all went wrong for pleats, but it’s nice to know that things are going right again. So, should you dare to embark on this next-level sartorial shit...

Here are the five pleated pants to consider as your jumping-off point...»

The Stat Sheet: Proof Pants

  • Kempt Staff

1107_Proof_HED

Just about every time we see a new line of tailored tech-fabric menswear, everything tends to lean toward the rugged, drab end of the color spectrum.

Which is why we were pleasantly surprised by this indestructible-yet-gloriously-bright-red pair of pants from NYC label Proof. They’ve got all kinds of technical innovation, but look nearly identical to the trads’ beloved go-to-hell pants—with waterproofing. Oh, and they’re 48% off over at UrbanDaddy Perks.

Here’s what else you need to know.»

Carson Street Clothiers Opens Up E-Shop

  • Najib Benouar

Carson

Today, order has been restored in the land of #menswear. Because Carson Street Clothiers has finally launched e-commerce.

When we took you inside the NYC shop founded by two Internet-famous menswear pals, it was a feast for the eyes—full of hard-to-find Italian blazers and so on. But the stuff was still mostly unattainable for anyone who couldn’t make it to SoHo. And for a couple of guys who made their bones in the online world of menswear, it left a large portion of Tumblr wondering when CSC would embrace their hashtaggy roots. Now, thanks to their triumphant return to the Internet, the #menswear masses can finally get their hands on all that L.B.M., Bastian and in-house suiting they’ve been craving from afar.

Take a look at a few of our favorites after the jump.»

All the Chinos Your Late-Spring Requires

  • Najib Benouar

Chinos

Plenty of ink has been spilled extolling the virtues of chinos, so we’ll presume you’re well aware of their essentialness.

In fact, you’re probably wearing a pair now.

We’ll just say this: a classic is a classic, from British officer khaki to the go-to-hell variety. And it doesn’t matter what the menswear rags are telling you this month—you’ll be wearing chinos of every stripe, year after year, regardless of #menswear’s current whim. So in the event that you’re in the market for a new pair or two, we’ve rounded up your best options on the Internet right now. Without further ado, the six pairs of chinos your late-spring requires.»

The Anatomy of a Trench Coat, Game of Thrones Returns and Visiting Southwick’s Suit Factory

  • Kempt Staff

Trench

Entrenched: Well Spent goes hands-on with American Trench to get an itemized look at the return on investment.

Game Time: With the return of Game of Thrones on Sunday, Wired endeavors to get you up to speed. (Spoilers abound.)

Fitting In: Gilt MANual has some solid advice for anyone still wondering exactly how a good pair of pants should fit.

Well Suited: An up-close-and-personal tour of Southwick’s legendary suiting factory in Haverhill, Massachusetts.

The Five Things to Consider About Your Tuxedo

  • Najib Benouar

Connery

In our ongoing ruminations on black tie regalia during the lead-up to the Oscars, let us consider the little things that can make or break a tuxedo’s chances for best-dressed-list-ed glory...

As with everything menswear-related, attention to detail is paramount—we’ll spare you the lecture on how your tux should fit well (just make sure it does). We’d rather focus on the universally key factors like sizing up a lapel, the appropriateness of grosgrain and the employment of a pocket square.

Dissecting the finer points of a tuxedo.»

The Stat Sheet: Spelman Pants by Proof

  • Najib Benouar

In the wrong hands, tailored tech fabrics can be a dicey proposition—there’s a tendency to go too rugged.

Which is why we were pleasantly surprised by the indestructible yet citified Spelman Pants by NYC label Proof. They’ve got all kinds of technical innovation, but look nearly identical to the pair of grey trousers you’re wearing with your navy blazer as you read this. But these are waterproof (and spilt-scotch-proof). Oh, and they’re 30% off over at UrbanDaddy Perks. Here’s what else you need to know.

The Story: Proof designs and tailors all of their rugged menswear in NYC—and these pants are the pièce de résistance of their line, using high-performance, breathable, quick-drying fabric that’s been treated to be waterproof, dirt-repellent and happy-hour-spills-resistant.

Who to Channel: An avid outdoorsman in a board meeting; someone who bikes to work; pre-kilt Kanye West at New York Fashion Week.

When to Wear It: These pants should come in handy anytime it’s raining out, or you plan on doing some extracurricular activities after work that require heightened lower-body mobility.

Think of This As: A Patagonia jacket for your legs disguised as the nicest pants you own.

Some inspiration from Mr.West, after the jump.»

24 Hours to Save the Unis-verse

  • Najib Benouar

Now here’s a flash sale we can get behind.

Blogger favorite Unis is throwing a one-day-only sale (online and in-store) that began as the clock struck midnight this morning and will end once the clock strikes midnight tonight. Everything from the raved-about Gio pants to the downtown-kid-approved navy varsity jacket is 30% off. They even threw some non-Unis goods like Common Projects sneakers and grooming stuff in the mix. You know the drill—the clock is already ticking.

Consider yourself the Jack Bauer of getting handsome.

The Stat Sheet: Good Acre Vintner’s Chore Pants

  • Najib Benouar

A sturdy pair of pants is a good thing to have this time of year, with all the impromptu apple-picking and jumping into freshly raked leaf piles bound to happen.

And these chore pants from the newly minted label Good Acre—that begin shipping this week—are more than up to the task. Here’s what else you need to know about them.

The Story: The guys from Taylor Stitch—who you’ll recognize as the makers of your favorite perfectly cut shirt—have recently branched into the pants game and have teamed up with fellow Northern Californian and industry vet Aaron Mutscheller to create Good Acre. Their first order of business: these hardworking-yet-handsome Vintner’s Chore Pants, made of double-reinforced 12-ounce duck canvas in 10 different colors.

Who to Channel: A Napa vintner before the boom; Paul Newman in Cool Hand Luke; a particularly stylish outdoorsman dressed for town.

When to Wear Them: While doing chores—whether that means pitching hay or, more likely, grabbing the morning paper at your corner bodega.

Recommended if You Like: Storing records in vintage milk crates; terrariums; performing Springsteen-esque knee-slides across stages.

Degree of Difficulty: About as high as the difficulty of putting on a pair of pants. Remember: one leg at a time.

A few more looks at the pants in our favorite colors, after the jump.»

Georgina Stojiljković Is Sure It Starts With a D

  • Kempt Staff

Took Ivy: Ivy Style tagged along with Gant as they shot their fall lookbook on the Yale campus, and they share some behind-the-scenes photos. [Take Ivy]

Bottoms Up: A case for making the investment in custom-made trousers. [Die, Workwear!]

Rolling with the Homies: It would seem the Brooklyn Nets cheerleaders are planning on performing a stage revival of the movie Clueless. [FashionIndie]

Just to Change the Forecast: If your travel involves hopping between first-class airport lounges across the world, Esquire has graciously rounded up the finest travel duds around. [Esquire]

An M-65 Jacket for Your Legs

  • Najib Benouar

Unlike most labels trading on tech fabrics, Outlier makes the sort of stuff that doesn’t look anything out of the ordinary—menswear staples cut from a different cloth.

These Nyco Slims are their latest entry—made from a surplus stock of Nyco (that’s half nylon, half cotton) used by the military to make the legendary M-65 jackets. The material is tough as nails and the cut gives them the look of your favorite pair of chinos (which they will be soon enough).

Consider them the moleskin trousers of the future.