Mind you, these aren’t the billowing taupe eyesores of yesterday—this new breed of pleated pants somehow manages to look streamlined while also adding a bit of extra movement. (Which, really, was the original intent of pleats.) It’s tough to know where it all went wrong for pleats, but it’s nice to know that things are going right again. So, should you dare to embark on this next-level sartorial shit…
Just about every time we see a new line of tailored tech-fabric menswear, everything tends to lean toward the rugged, drab end of the color spectrum.
Which is why we were pleasantly surprised by this indestructible-yet-gloriously-bright-red pair of pants from NYC label Proof. They’ve got all kinds of technical innovation, but look nearly identical to the trads’ beloved go-to-hell pants—with waterproofing. Oh, and they’re 48% off over at UrbanDaddy Perks.
Today, order has been restored in the land of #menswear. Because Carson Street Clothiers has finally launched e-commerce.
When we took you inside the NYC shop founded by two Internet-famous menswear pals, it was a feast for the eyes—full of hard-to-find Italian blazers and so on. But the stuff was still mostly unattainable for anyone who couldn’t make it to SoHo. And for a couple of guys who made their bones in the online world of menswear, it left a large portion of Tumblr wondering when CSC would embrace their hashtaggy roots. Now, thanks to their triumphant return to the Internet, the #menswear masses can finally get their hands on all that L.B.M., Bastian and in-house suiting they’ve been craving from afar.
Plenty of ink has been spilled extolling the virtues of chinos, so we’ll presume you’re well aware of their essentialness.
In fact, you’re probably wearing a pair now.
We’ll just say this: a classic is a classic, from British officer khaki to the go-to-hell variety. And it doesn’t matter what the menswear rags are telling you this month—you’ll be wearing chinos of every stripe, year after year, regardless of #menswear’s current whim. So in the event that you’re in the market for a new pair or two, we’ve rounded up your best options on the Internet right now.
In our ongoing ruminations on black tie regalia during the lead-up to the Oscars, let us consider the little things that can make or break a tuxedo’s chances for best-dressed-list-ed glory…
As with everything menswear-related, attention to detail is paramount—we’ll spare you the lecture on how your tux should fit well (just make sure it does). We’d rather focus on the universally key factors like sizing up a lapel, the appropriateness of grosgrain and the employment of a pocket square.
In the wrong hands, tailored tech fabrics can be a dicey proposition—there’s a tendency to go too rugged.
Which is why we were pleasantly surprised by the indestructible yet citified Spelman Pants by NYC label Proof. They’ve got all kinds of technical innovation, but look nearly identical to the pair of grey trousers you’re wearing with your navy blazer as you read this. But these are waterproof (and spilt-scotch-proof). Oh, and they’re 30% off over at UrbanDaddy Perks. Here’s what else you need to know.
The Story: Proof designs and tailors all of their rugged menswear in NYC—and these pants are the pièce de résistance of their line, using high-performance, breathable, quick-drying fabric that’s been treated to be waterproof, dirt-repellent and happy-hour-spills-resistant.
Who to Channel: An avid outdoorsman in a board meeting; someone who bikes to work; pre-kilt Kanye West at New York Fashion Week.
When to Wear It: These pants should come in handy anytime it’s raining out, or you plan on doing some extracurricular activities after work that require heightened lower-body mobility.
Think of This As: A Patagonia jacket for your legs disguised as the nicest pants you own.
Now here’s a flash sale we can get behind.
Blogger favorite Unis is throwing a one-day-only sale (online and in-store) that began as the clock struck midnight this morning and will end once the clock strikes midnight tonight. Everything from the raved-about Gio pants to the downtown-kid-approved navy varsity jacket is 30% off. They even threw some non-Unis goods like Common Projects sneakers and grooming stuff in the mix. You know the drill—the clock is already ticking.
Consider yourself the Jack Bauer of getting handsome.
A sturdy pair of pants is a good thing to have this time of year, with all the impromptu apple-picking and jumping into freshly raked leaf piles bound to happen.
And these chore pants from the newly minted label Good Acre—that begin shipping this week—are more than up to the task. Here’s what else you need to know about them.
The Story: The guys from Taylor Stitch—who you’ll recognize as the makers of your favorite perfectly cut shirt—have recently branched into the pants game and have teamed up with fellow Northern Californian and industry vet Aaron Mutscheller to create Good Acre. Their first order of business: these hardworking-yet-handsome Vintner’s Chore Pants, made of double-reinforced 12-ounce duck canvas in 10 different colors.
Who to Channel: A Napa vintner before the boom; Paul Newman in Cool Hand Luke; a particularly stylish outdoorsman dressed for town.
When to Wear Them: While doing chores—whether that means pitching hay or, more likely, grabbing the morning paper at your corner bodega.
Recommended if You Like: Storing records in vintage milk crates; terrariums; performing Springsteen-esque knee-slides across stages.
Degree of Difficulty: About as high as the difficulty of putting on a pair of pants. Remember: one leg at a time.
Unlike most labels trading on tech fabrics, Outlier makes the sort of stuff that doesn’t look anything out of the ordinary—menswear staples cut from a different cloth.
These Nyco Slims are their latest entry—made from a surplus stock of Nyco (that’s half nylon, half cotton) used by the military to make the legendary M-65 jackets. The material is tough as nails and the cut gives them the look of your favorite pair of chinos (which they will be soon enough).
Consider them the moleskin trousers of the future.
There’s no question camouflage is having a moment.
But leave it to the unlikely union of the uptown stalwarts at J. Press and the downtown kids at Opening Ceremony to give it a new spin: patchwork camouflage pants. The move is usually relegated to the preppy corner of madras, but here we’ve got West Point military cloth of alternating camouflage—we detect woodland, desert and tiger stripe for starters. It’s part of a capsule collaboration between the two labels (you’ll have to make it to NYC or London to get your hands on any of it) that includes a removable-collar seersucker shirt, a few tees and a blazer.
We won’t spend any more time extolling the virtues of chinos. You’re probably wearing a pair now. We’ll just say this: a classic is a classic—from British officer khaki to go-to-hell red. It doesn’t matter what you’re hearing right now, you’ll be wearing chinos of every stripe, summer after summer, regardless of what #menswear is telling you. Which is why we’d rather survey the whole spectrum—a little reminder of what was and a little inspiration for what will be. Whether you’re going full-on Lapo Elkann or keeping it classic, Miles Davis-style, let this be your guide.
These pants come courtesy of Rogue Territory, who are turning raindrop camo into their signature pattern. (You may remember us gushing about the safari-shorts version a while back.) If you want your legs to effectively blend in during a brown-and-green thunderstorm, it’s really your only choice.
We’ve only got a few requirements for our beach gear. It needs to be rugged, it needs to be light, and it needs to keep us from getting sunburned. Any summery affectations on top of that are just icing on the pineapple-flavored cake.
By that standard, Scout Originals just rolled out what might be the perfect beach pants. There’s a lot here that won’t play on land—starting with the Hawaiian icons painted on the legs—but they should look right at home next to a large body of water, especially if you’re going for a Picasso-on-the-Riviera vibe.
The three-quarter length also happens to be the exact amount we usually roll up our pant legs when we’re dealing with sand—but in this case, they’ve saved us the trouble.
Sadly, we don’t have $750 to devote to beach outfits…but a guy can dream.
The Unis Gio gets a lot of love from the style press, and for good reason: it’s one of the best-cut pants on the market, made with great fabrics in smart colors, all stitched together in New York city limits.
The only problem is, because of all that wonderful fabric, it usually comes in at almost $300… which is why it pays to wait for a day like today, when Unis puts their whole stock of Gios on offer for half the usual price.
Make no mistake, it’s still pricey—but you’ll be getting more than your money’s worth.
The khaki is having a good year.
Our Exhibit A is this pair from Brooklyn’s own Left Field, which sports a herringbone pattern so subtle, you won’t even see it unless you’re looking closely; it’ll just look a little more weathered than your average chino. Throw in a decidedly non-skinny cut and you’ve got one of the most versatile pairs of pants we’ve seen all season.
And if you don’t feel like dropping $180 just yet, we’d direct you to Exhibit B, Dockers’ Alpha Khaki, a surprisingly rugged item that hit the $60 sweet spot on the Dockers site earlier this week.
A lot of people overlook their lower half when bundling up for winter, but unless you’re rocking a knee-length overcoat, your legs are going to face some serious chills.
Our suggestion: some extremely thick pants… like these. They come from the up-and-coming Italian brand Camo, with some of the thickest tweed there is. Like most thick wool pants, they don’t come cheap, but little touches like the red-flecked fabric set them off from a less durable version you might pick up for less.
Design-heads might also notice an unusually high rise. (That’s the distance between the belt line and where the legs split off.) It’s an old-fashioned touch we’re seeing a lot more these days—and good news for anyone who feels pinched in modern cuts.
Consider this a bookend to our bike style primer on Monday, addressing the bermuda triangle of stylish cycling: catching your pants in a bike chain. Selectism tipped us off to a leather strap from Brooks that lets you keep the endangered pant leg hiked up for as long as you keep it snapped. If you play your cards right, the strap might even match your saddle. But as always, the best defense is a tight cuff.
Billy Reid’s been busy.
His broken-in take on the K-Swiss sneaker arrives tomorrow (apparently he’s been wearing them for years), but we’re even more impressive by the seven items that just arrived at J.Crew. Our favorite of the bunch is a fantastic chambray suit that boasts an extra pair of patch pockets and a few genteel pleats on the pants.
If you were looking for something to wear to the Kentucky Derby, we’d say you’ve found your man.
This Army pant arrived today from Steven Alan and Dockers, with the flat twill you’d expect from Dockers and the clever twists you’d expect from Mr. Alan. But our main interest was that stitched front pocket.
It’s not exactly a cargo pocket, but if you needed somewhere to stash a smartphone, it’s the perfect size. And since it’s clinging to your hips instead of your thighs, the pocket dodges most of the problems we have with the dreaded cargo pant.
It doesn’t hurt that the fabric’s so perfectly weather-beaten. As brute utility goes, it’s pretty handsome stuff.
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