London Collections: Men wrapped yesterday, and while you (or the people you follow on Instagram) head south to Florence for Pitti, we’ve put together a recap of the very best Insta-moments from this year’s SS15 collections.
The seasonal shift is already under way: flowers are budding, the heavy wools are being replaced by cottons and raw silk, and soon enough you’ll be tuning up the old two-wheeler.
Luckily, there’s plenty of handsome new menswear hitting the market for spring that’s geared toward the active yet refined sport of urban cycling: performance material with a British-minded cut, jeans with secret stretch and moisture-wicking shirts—just to name a few. As for the rest:
It’s easily the most stylish trophy in sports: the Masters’ green jacket.
Coincidentally, a green blazer also happens to be the perfect spring accomplice—especially if you can find one in an airier weave, with softer shoulders and in a less glaring tone than the mostly ceremonial number slung over the winner’s shoulder each April. Luckily, with a little digging, we’ve found a surprisingly plentiful spectrum of solid options out there right now, from pale to Rockham green, Gucci to Woolrich, that you can wear today, without having to beat out Tiger in a shootout down the back nine. (Though we’re not saying you couldn’t.) So, without further ado:
We’ve just got word that Alabama menswear shop Lyonstate is taking all of the handsomeness they’ve already got on their web shop, putting it on sale, and then slashing off an additional 25% (with the secret code “TAKE25”). Which puts some of these prices at the lowest we’ve seen for stuff from brands like Our Legacy (like this double-breasted blazer), Rachel Comey (like these oxford shoes) or Oliver Spencer (this fisher jacket, for instance) go for. There’s plenty more where that came from, so get after it, gentlemen.
For those of you lucky enough to be in New York City this weekend, we have some really, really ridiculously good-looking news.
Our comrades-in-style over at UrbanDaddy are hosting a two-day, whiskey-infused extravaganza of dapperness called the Vault on Saturday and Sunday in SoHo (70 Wooster St, to be exact).
In said Vault will be untold wonders of menswear from the likes of Michael Bastian, Slowear, Oliver Spencer, Richard James, Barker Black and more, at unheard-of prices—camelhair chesterfields from MB, gray hopsack suits from Richard James Savile Row, the coveted Incotex pants line from Slowear…
As with any good celebration of handsomeness, the scotch will be flowing freely. And if you happen to be in the giving mood, they’ve also set up complimentary on-site gift wrapping. (Just remember to act surprised when you open them later.)
Olympic excitement has risen to a rolling boil across the pond, and the latest result is this Olympic Survival Kit from British designer Oliver Spencer. It’s a well-appointed selection of essentials (a change of T-shirt, a weather-resistant windbreaker, aftershave, a London city guide and more) for braving the 2012 Summer Games all tucked into a Seil Marschall mini canoe pack that will come in handy long after the competition has come and gone. No word on whether they’ll leave the bag for you at Olympic Stadium’s Will Call.
With winter safely in the rear-view mirror, there’s a whole new breed of tie up for grabs. Forget the gray wools and somber brown hues. Now that the sun is out, we’re more partial to raw silks, textured cotton and madras ties—the rare breed of neckwear that actually looks good on a beach. And in case you want to join in the celebration, we’ve pulled together a few of our favorite examples after the jump.
Now that the weather’s warming up, we’d like to direct your attention to one of the most overlooked items in your spring/summer arsenal: the cotton sweater. It’s an airier version of the wool and cashmere pullovers in your closet, and perfect for those couple weeks in mid-March when the summer sun butts up against the last gusts of winter. These will fare well against both.
Winter is upon us, and for the next two months all your chances of surviving the outdoors turn on a single item: your winter coat. And since you’ll be brothers-in-arms until at least March, we thought we’d put together a few pictures showing off the best the winter coat has to offer—from classic duffels to mountain-ready waxed cotton coats. It’s going to be a good winter…
There’s a lot of camo out there—and if recent events are any indication, we’re adding new patterns as fast as we can. It can be a little daunting, so we’ve stripped things down to the bare minimum: the five patterns that matter circa 2011—from digital to duck hunter. So before you buy that elegantly military pocket square, you may have a little research to do.
The corduroy jacket doesn’t get much love.
It’s too low-class for the Italians, too precious for the waxed-cotton crowd, marred by years as a thrift store staple and wholly ignored by the boutique set. But even through the dark years, it never really went away.
While we’re big fans of the tweed-heavy layering look, it’s not the only way to tackle fall. If you prefer a more trim, military vibe, you may want to swap the tweed jacket for another fall staple: the Harrington jacket.
It’s a waist-length waxed cotton shell just slightly warmer than your cardigan, and weatherproof enough to get you through anything short of a monsoon. The classic is the heritage Baracuta model that’s been kicking around London since the 30s, but plenty of more modern options have popped up in the meantime, including this newly arrived ripstop jacket from Engineered Garments.
Our advice: Find the slimmest one you can, keep the pockets buttoned closed and don’t zip it past the belly button unless you’re in danger of catching a cold.
And if you were wondering how that lightly scarfed look works, the heavily tweeded gents at Oliver Spencer were good enough to provide a master class on the subject in their latest lookbook. The big lessons are as follows: find yourself a light jacket, pile on as much texture as you can, and don’t be afraid to go unbuttoned.
The poncho is seen as a lost cause by most of the fashion world, but apparently Oliver Spencer’s a true believer. It’s good news, since we’re bound to see a few nasty rainstorms over the next couple months and it’s just about the perfect item for facing them down.
This newly arrived Quay jacket has all the wood-and-leather hardware you’d expect from Mr. Spencer, but the thirsty waxed cotton and the grade-school coloring put it miles ahead of the plastic competition—and it’ll still keep your head drier than even the largest umbrella in your broom closet. All told, a pretty good piece to have in your closet once fall rolls around.
And naturally, if it gets worn down in a few years time, we’ve got some ideas on how to fix it up.
As you may have noticed recently, just because it’s summer doesn’t mean it can’t start pouring rain at any moment.
And now that the first crop of trend-inspired waxed cotton jackets and bags are getting a bit weathered—and, consequently, a little less waterproof—it might be time to look into re-upping your wax coating. Fortunately, it’s a lot easier than you might think.
It’s not for everyone—Tom Ford is on record as hating the look—but Spencer knows how to pull it off better than anyone.
You’ll want a smaller collar than usual and a thin knot to keep everything roughly in proportion, but the real trick is leaving the top button unbuttoned. The jackets in question are usually three-buttons, and fastening the top one is every bit as bad as fastening the bottom.
And if you want to throw in a quick lapel trinket to show off how clever you’re being, we’d say you’ve earned it.
Between Savile-obsessed trads and an older tribe still reliving the British Invasion, it’s easy to forget the younger generation of British designers, even when they’re churning out goods as impressive as anything you’ll find in New York. For example, our old friend Oliver Spencer.
Spencer’s Fall ’08 line has a lot to recommend it, but what caught our eye was the rough fabrics, long pirate-style peacoat, and his clever twists on the cardigan. Add in a little classic tailoring, and we’re pretty much sold. What else would you expect from Keith’s tailor?
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