May 24, 2013 world of men's style / fashion / grooming RSS
“Old Hollywood”
03/29/12
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Filmic

Clark Gable’s Jacket Goes Up for Auction

If yesterday’s icon gave you a yen for classic Clark Gable style, we’ve got good news.

This weekend, Gable’s riding jacket from Gone with the Wind goes up for auction, and for a specimen of 80-year-old style (masquerading as a specimen of 150-year-old style), it’s remarkably on point. The herringbone hasn’t aged a day, and the long tails aren’t that different from the style Monitaly’s been mining in recent collections.

Naturally, it looks best while you’re riding a horse…but a Vespa should do in a pinch.

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03/15/12
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LinkOut

Miranda Kerr Has Moved Past Pearl-Clutching

Miranda Kerrvia Harper’s Bazaar

The Rules of Summer: The gents at Esquire unveil their guide to summer, including a newfound enthusiasm for the eclectic suede buck. [Esquire]

March Misdemeanors: A guide to discreetly following March Madness while at work. [Deadspin]

Connery, Grant and Stewart: A slideshow of some of Old Hollywood’s biggest names in true Neapolitain style. [Die, Workwear]

True to the Method: A sharp Scottish furniture company. We’ll say, they make a hell of a trunk. [Proper Magazine]

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01/18/12
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Icon

The Icon: John Ford

John Wayne gets all the credit, but the man behind the camera was every bit as much of a cowboy. Shooting three films a year, never more than two takes per shot, he cut his own path through Hollywood at breakneck speed.

Along the way, he left his mark on some of the most iconic figures in Americana—the cowboy, the soldier, the migrant, the pioneer, and so on. Throw in a dash of Old Hollywood glamour, and you’re left with a pretty potent mix of styles.

So we thought we’d take a moment to honor the man who gave us the cowboy, Mr. John Martin Feeney Ford…
 

See five pictures of the iconic Mr. Ford»
 

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01/03/12
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Big Picture

The First Lady of Menswear

Katharine Hepburn

Courtesy of Old Hollywood, here’s a snap of the 27-year-old Katharine Hepburn on the set of Sylvia Scarlett—a full 75 years before the modern ladies-in-menswear craze. Nice shortwings, ma’am.

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08/11/11
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Classic

Buying Zorro’s Pea Coat

Douglas Fairbanks, Jr.

This is Douglas Fairbanks, Jr., the first Zorro and one of the original well-dressed gentlemen of Old Hollywood.

He was also the owner of a pretty spectacular wardrobe, including 34 shoehorns, five ascots and three matching velvet tuxedos in ruby, sapphire and chocolate colors.

And now, it’s all going up for auction…

Our guide to the sartorial estate of Douglas Fairbanks, Jr.»

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06/02/10
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The Past

Stardust Memories

bogeybacall_crop.jpg

Celebrities in the pre-tabloid era didn’t leave much of a trace. They made movies, maybe made a TV appearance when the Oscars rolled around, and the rest of the time they just sat around basking in their mystique without the slightest inkling of paparazzo intrusions.

Luckily, they occasionally found time to pick up a camera.

Humphrey Bogart’s son recently dug through his family archive and posted a set of gloriously grainy home movies, including family beachgoing with Lauren Bacall and a yacht trip with Frank Sinatra. It’s style bait for anyone jonesing for 50s-era swimwear, but it’s also one of the more intimate peeks you’re likely to get at a lost era of movie star. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself reaching for that Maltese Falcon DVD when the footage runs out.

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04/05/10
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Scene

Kempt Man of the Hour: Old Hollywood Edition

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In honor of this Vanity Fair piece on Preston Sturges, we thought we’d dig up this picture of the director in defiantly broad-shouldered style.

Much like the fast-talking screwball comedy, the broad-shouldered suit isn’t something you’re likely to see much these days, but pull it off right and you’ll be in rare company. It’s not a trendy look, but it’s as Old Hollywood as it gets. And given the way these things cycle, we wouldn’t be surprised to see Brad Pitt rocking a similar getup circa 2025—especially if he puts on a few pounds.

As for the pencil-thin mustache…let’s not go crazy.

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03/23/10
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LinkOut

Mila Kunis is in Repose

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Cowboy Hats Are Still Not a Good Idea: Stopping by GQ for Date Night. [GQ]

Staying Light: A lifelong trad airs his misgivings concerning the cotton suit. [A Suitable Wardrobe]

The Original Screwball: Cary Grant, seminal dandy and Old Hollywood icon, apparently didn’t mind a little LSD from time to time. It certainly would have spiced up Bringing Up Baby. [Boing Boing]

Dropping Math: A magnificently bearded math whiz solves a century-old paradox, forgoes the million dollar prize and returns to his Eastern hovel.
[Daily Mail]

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02/26/09
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Big Picture

The Lay of the Land

philadelphia_crop.jpgvia Benhasten

Although he may occasionally find himself at a loss for words, a gentleman is always ready for new customs. Even if it means adapting to a world in which women light cigarettes for men.

There’s plenty of changes afoot, but you’ll never get anywhere if you don’t try them out.

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02/13/09
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Big Picture

Collared

waltdisney_crop.jpgvia benhasten

Continuing with our Old Hollywood obsession, we ran across this picture of Walt Disney.

The Bixby beltline is in full effect—this was the 30s, after all—but what caught our eye was the loose button-loops on the placket of his polo. It’s a look you might be more used to seeing on Errol Flynn (or Robin Hood).

But we wouldn’t be surprised if that’s where Walt picked it up.

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02/09/09
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Object

There’s No Place Like London

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If you’re really trying to nail the Old Hollywood look, a bit of tweed should help.

This Bentley Tweed cap harkens back to a time when London was still a fashion capital, and the occasional non-fur-lined earflap was still acceptable. It may seem like an unlikely style revival, but when Robert Downey Jr.’s take on Sherlock Holmes comes out in November, it may seem a whole lot likelier.

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02/06/09
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Big Picture

Off Camera

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Old Hollywood is a glamorous enough style, we’re surprised no labels have tried to revive it. (Chaplin, anyone?) This picture of Buster Keaton, his director Edward Sedgwick, and simian companion Josephine holds almost a dozen style lessons, including the proper form for the newsboy cap, the nonchalant smoking break, and the hardest look of all: the shoulder-mounted monkey.

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01/20/09
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Icon

Golden Age

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One of the startling things about Old Hollywood photographs is how comfortable all the stars are with elegance. Gary Cooper made his living playing tough guys, but when he put on a suit, he didn’t forget details like the pocket square, and he didn’t fall into knee-jerk simplicity. He wasn’t afraid to dress up.

We’ve gushed about Cooper before, but this time we got a little better peek at his wardrobe. The pic comes from an exhibit at the International Center for Photography, spanning from 1923 to 1937. We aren’t surprised Cooper made the cut. During those years, he may have been the most glamorous man in Hollywood.

Any McQueen comparisons are purely coincidental…

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05/27/08
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Filmic

The Middlebrow

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Kempt bids a fond farewell to Sydney Pollack today, a filmmaker who made his name on restraint, subtle humanism and consummate professionalism. In short, a man in full. As his recent co-star George Clooney put it, “Sydney made the world a little better, movies a little better and even dinner a little better. A tip of the hat to a class act. He will be missed.”

More on Mr. Pollack»

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Style: some people have it, and some neighborhoods really have it. To show you what we mean, we’ve partnered with Cadillac to present Style Shifters—a five-part, in-depth look at what the hippest gents in some of the country’s coolest neighborhoods are wearing now. Our intrepid photographers have roamed the streets in search of the most stylish guys around. Herewith, a few photos of what they found...

New York

Brooklyn

Williamsburg

Williamsburg, Brooklyn, is home to some of the country’s best bars and coolest restaurants—and, of course, some of the best menswear shops in the world. Naturally, you’ll find more than a few stylish individuals perched outside those locations (and no, not all of them are Billyburg hipsters). See what we mean below...

On The Streets: Brooklyn

  • Drew Ledbetter Actor
    Lives: Providence, RI

    Hometown: Chattanooga, TN / Bay Area, CA

    What We Like Drew’s shoes are made by Cole Haan.
  • Drew Ledbetter Actor
    Lives: Providence, RI

    Hometown: Chattanooga, TN / Bay Area, CA

    What We Like Drew’s shoes are made by Cole Haan.
  • Justice Hampton Works for Club Monaco
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Dallas, TX

    What We Like Leave it to a Texan to know that a linen jacket is the perfect bit of outerwear to transition you from spring to summer.
  • Justice Hampton Works for Club Monaco
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Dallas, TX

    What We Like Leave it to a Texan to know that a linen jacket is the perfect bit of outerwear to transition you from spring to summer.
  • Jamie Clawson Runs a leather accessories business (valentinegoods.com)
    Lives: East Village, New York

    Hometown: Cleveland, OH

    What We Like Jamie’s shirt is called the “Expensive” shirt by Wil Fry. Ironically, it goes for about 30 bucks.
  • Jamie Clawson Runs a leather accessories business (valentinegoods.com)
    Lives: East Village, New York

    Hometown: Cleveland, OH

    What We Like Jamie’s shirt is called the “Expensive” shirt by Wil Fry. Ironically, it goes for about 30 bucks.
  • Koppel Verma Researcher at Google
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Cambridge, MA

    What We Like Turns out, the Swiss Army makes more than knives—they also made this jacket (it’s vintage).
  • Koppel Verma Researcher at Google
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Cambridge, MA

    What We Like Turns out, the Swiss Army makes more than knives—they also made this jacket (it’s vintage).
  • Chris Afzal Audio engineer
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Baltimore, MD

    What We Like If you needed any more proof that Brooks Brothers has shed its stodgy image, these shoes should do the trick.
  • Chris Afzal Audio engineer
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Baltimore, MD

    What We Like If you needed any more proof that Brooks Brothers has shed its stodgy image, these shoes should do the trick.
  • Malik Alokpovi Host for a hotel
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Born in Togo, West Africa, but lived in the South of France

    What We Like Malik’s red suede shoes came from A.P.C. Try not to step on them.
  • Malik Alokpovi Host for a hotel
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Born in Togo, West Africa, but lived in the South of France

    What We Like Malik’s red suede shoes came from A.P.C. Try not to step on them.
  • Billy Cadden Musician
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Woodstock, NY

    What We Like Billy’s worn this shirt, which he got at H&M while on tour, at every show since.
  • Billy Cadden Musician
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Woodstock, NY

    What We Like Billy’s worn this shirt, which he got at H&M while on tour, at every show since.
  • Sam Bowstucky Bartender
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Chicago, IL

    What We Like He’s actually on his way to a working audition for a bartending job at the Blind Barber. Good luck, Sam.
  • Sam Bowstucky Bartender
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Chicago, IL

    What We Like He’s actually on his way to a working audition for a bartending job at the Blind Barber. Good luck, Sam.
California

San Francisco

Mission District

Style. The Mission’s got it. Union Square’s got it. But each of them goes about having it in a different way—the Mission rocking a more bohemian coffee shop vibe, Union Square hosting some of the best higher-fashion shops (and shoppers) on the West Coast. We rounded up a few of the most stylish folks from both. Have yourself a gander below…

On The Streets: San Francisco

  • Brian Cunningham Shop clerk
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: Boston, MA

    What We Like The first rule any SF transplant learns: always bring a light coat. Brian sticks with a denim jacket from AllSaints. (Button to taste.)
  • Brian Cunningham Shop clerk
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: Boston, MA

    What We Like The first rule any SF transplant learns: always bring a light coat. Brian sticks with a denim jacket from AllSaints. (Button to taste.)
  • Erik Newton Attorney
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Diego, CA

    What We Like Erik likes to throw on an interesting sport coat with a pocket square and skip the tie—on days he’s not in the courthouse, naturally.
  • Erik Newton Attorney
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Diego, CA

    What We Like Erik likes to throw on an interesting sport coat with a pocket square and skip the tie—on days he’s not in the courthouse, naturally.
  • Jason Moo Banker
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: New York, NY

    What We Like Jason picked up his prized pocket square at his favorite tailor, tucked away in NYC’s NoHo—Michael Andrews Bespoke.
  • Jason Moo Banker
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: New York, NY

    What We Like Jason picked up his prized pocket square at his favorite tailor, tucked away in NYC’s NoHo—Michael Andrews Bespoke.
  • Presyler Galvin Bon vivant
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Francisco, CA

    What We Like A good carry-all bag is a necessity in the city—and you won’t do much better than a Goyard. Extra points for the monogram.
  • Presyler Galvin Bon vivant
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Francisco, CA

    What We Like A good carry-all bag is a necessity in the city—and you won’t do much better than a Goyard. Extra points for the monogram.
  • Randal Ruiz Design student
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Jose, CA

    What We Like Randal fashioned those elbow pads himself—ensuring he’ll never bump into the same blazer anywhere else.
  • Randal Ruiz Design student
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Jose, CA

    What We Like Randal fashioned those elbow pads himself—ensuring he’ll never bump into the same blazer anywhere else.
Florida

Miami

South Beach
June 6

Forget everything you know about Miami style. Today’s Miamian is more LeBron James than Crockett and Tubbs—as you’ll soon see in our next edition of Style Shifters…

Kempt
Style Shifters
Cadillac