In the event that you’re still eyeing a new archivally incined coat for this fall—and the next two dozen or so—you can stop looking now...
Because Filson’s tough-as-nails waxed-cotton jackets and Nigel Cabourn’s nose for timelessly rugged designs have just combined in a perfect storm of autumnal outerwear: C.C. Filson.
For starters, there’s a hooded cape jacket based on a long-lost 1930s Filson coat Cabourn discovered in Japan, and a WWI-style full-length work jacket, and a coat with brass fireman clip closures lined in a heavy-duty wool that will get you through the tail end of fall into winter. There are a few more jackets to come later in the season, so keep your eyes peeled, but in the meantime:
In our grand tradition of keeping you up to date on the international men’s shop scene, we’ve scoured the globe for the newest openings in your regular haunts—you know, Shanghai, Berlin, the usual. Because you never know when you’re going to need some British tailoring while in Hamburg.
The Story: Nigel Cabourn based the shoes on 1940s British military-issue sneakers, built them on a similar-era Chuck Taylor last and sourced the Ventile canvas upper from the material still used in pilot suits to this day. The shoe comes in track brown, gray and the summeriest of all: eggnog.
When it comes to a good wool overcoat, we prefer something weighty enough to withstand the Antarctic tundra.
Which is why this naval jacket from Nigel Cabourn’s latest capsule collection—based on Captain Robert Scott’s crossing of Antarctica—is especially up to the task. Here’s what you need to know about it.
The Story: Nigel Cabourn painstakingly researched the Antarctic expedition (so thoroughly, he released a companion booklet) on its 100-year anniversary and has recreated some of the most iconic pieces he discovered.
Who to Channel: Decorated admirals; Albert Camus; a man who risked life and frostbitten limb for the sake of crossing Antarctica.
When to Wear It: In Antarctica. Or on your way to and from the office. It’s just roomy enough to wear over a suit or a heavy cardigan. (Don’t forget a scarf.)
Or Spend Your $1,450 On: A used motorcycle, 5.3 Schott naval peacoats or a weekend in Old San Juan—which should give you roughly the same feeling of warmth without the coat.
Degree of Difficulty: The peak lapels and green bands on the sleeves do add more flair than your typical peacoat, but we’d say: proceed as usual. Just skip the captain’s hat.
Linen’s been our summer go-to for a while, but this year it’s taken a sophisticated turn. We’re seeing navy hues instead of the standard hazy taupe, along with a heartening number of summery DBs. The bottom line: it’s not just camp shirts anymore.
And to prove it’s not just talk, we’ve rounded up a few specimens after the jump...
Military style gets name-checked a lot, but it’s rare that a designer gets specific enough to name their favorite division. So we were glad to see Nigel Cabourn dedicate his spring/summer line to the Desert Rats, an armored division that spent WWII going toe-to-toe with Rommel in North Africa. (That jerboa patch on their shoulder is the giveaway.) As for the actual clothes, that means oversized camo prints, army green and one of the more rugged aircraft jackets on the market. It’s History Channel menswear; in our book, that’s the best kind.
In case you came away from the holidays with a few nagging desires, Superdenim is having a late December blowout with more than a few objects of desire. And as always, anyone ordering from outside the UK will be paying the tax-free price.
Just in time for winter, Hypebeast tipped us off to the latest crop of Nigel Cabourn coats, which arrived recently at End Clothing. We’re particularly taken with the Eddie Bauer collaboration, which lands somewhere between a quilted jacket and the warmest coat known to man—not a bad place to be once January rolls around.
So naturally, we’ve been pulling late hours getting our sweater game together. And after weeks of careful scientific study, we’ve narrowed the whole knit spectrum down to three key items. Between the three of them, they should cover you for just about any situation you encounter for the next five months—including any fishing voyages you may have planned.
And to save you the late hours, we’ve tipped you off to our favorite pieces in each category. Gentlemen, take it to heart.
In honor of today’s Context flash sale, we’re playing buy/sell/hold with some of the more intriguing items. (For those unversed in market lingo, “buy” means buy, “sell” means don’t buy, and “hold” means only if you want to.) The stock ranges from Woolrich flannels to Nigel Cabourn’s loudest trench coat, and we’re tackling it without pity.
White jeans have made a strong showing this summer, but we’d like to suggest a secret weapon: the white jacket.
Case in point: this Nigel Cabourn button-up, a lighter take on the work jacket and the first nautical item you could safely wear to Diddy’s house. Instead of weather-beaten canvas, there’s ivory-white sateen (translation: it may feel like you’re wearing a bedspread), but there’s no mistaking the nautical cut.
The Jet Has Been Set: In honor of the upcoming long weekend, Details rounds up the best summer gear to bring along for the ride. [Details]
The Wind and the Rain: A look inside the studio of the great Nigel Cabourn. [Hypebeast]
The Hobo Beat: A 19th Century drifter dubbed “The Leather Man”was exhumed this weekend, but his identity remains a mystery. Enduring style tip: for a memorable first impression, make your pants out of old boots. [City Room]
Milk and Honey: Can men breastfeed? After much investigative chafing, Slate can definitively answer “no.” Sorry, guys. [Slate]
It’s Fall, Bitches: A profanity-laced ode to the season of decorative gourds. [McSweeney’s]
Ophuls Represent: Wes Anderson’s top 12 Criterion DVDs are not as twee as you might expect. [Criterion]
Bundle Up: Barneys sits down with Nigel Cabourn, who apparently used to employ a young Paul Smith. [The B List]
As Far As We Can Tell, This is Not a Joke: The LIFE archives has put together a 30-picture photoset entitled “What Can You Carry on Your Head.” One of the answers is, “You Can Carry a Large Pile of Clothing in a Mushroom-Shaped Hat.” Good to know. [LIFE]