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Field Report: Leather Japan 2013

Leather Japan

NYFW is coming to a close. But it seems the fashion gods were saving the best (or at least the most memorable) for last—we stumbled upon the most mind-blowing presentation of them all yesterday. It went by the name of Leather Japan and it was quite the way to go out.

Allow us to explain...

The Background: A consortium of eight Japanese leather designers teamed up for a show that seems designed to confirm whatever stereotypes you have about Japan’s tendency to get overzealous. On display: a 10-piece “folk-punk” band. Stuffed crows wearing leather jewelry. Surprisingly cool sneakers. Some pretty out-there clothes. And lots and lots of sake to wash it all down.

The Formula: Formula

Degree of Difficulty: Very high, unless you stick to the sneakers and nothing but the sneakers... or play in a 10-piece Japanese folk-punk band.

The Showstopper: The spectacle itself.

More looks after the jump.»

New Menswear, Rugged Soaps and Stylish Cops

  • Kempt Staff

Jardie

New Kids: Details runs down the four new menswear labels you should know, coming out of NYFW.

Full Bast: Slam x Hype catches up with #menswear messiah Christopher Bastin to talk Gant Rugger and Pitti Uomo.

Well Scent: Well Spent chats up the makers of their favorite rough-and-tumble soaps and room fresheners: Juniper Ridge.

Fashion Police: Bullett shines the street style limelight on the most stylish cops patrolling the tents at NYFW.

Field Report: Bespoken Fall/Winter 2013

Bespoken Clothiers

NYFW barrels into another day. Once again, we traipse across the city to see it, in an indefatigable quest to keep you informed (and show you how stylish future-you could be). Hence, a series of quick-and-dirty posts on as many of the shows as we can get to.

Up next: Bespoken Clothiers.

The Background: Bespoken Clothiers is designed by a couple of buddies who met playing rock and roll—and then went and earned their Savile Row tailoring cred. You can see bits of it in this year’s show, which took place in the dark and dusty library room in the impossibly hip, downest of the downtown venues, the NoMad Hotel (in a room that seemed like a better place to meet your archnemesis than to look at clothes).

The Formula: Formula

Degree of Difficulty: High if you live in a town with less than 100,000 people; low if you go to a lot of independent film premieres.

The Showstoppers: Updated black tie, some beautiful cap-toe boots.

More looks after the jump.»

Field Report: Steven Alan F/W 2013 Presentation

  • Najib Benouar

Steven Alan

NYFW: still happening. And while none of this stuff will be available for a good seven months—or until the weather’s gone from cold to warm to cold again—we consider it of paramount importance that we keep you informed (and show you how stylish future-you could be). Hence, a series of quick-and-dirty posts on as many of the shows as we can get to.

Up next: Steven Alan.

The Background: Mr. Alan digs deeper into Americana subcultures with a collection inspired by ’60s post-bop jazz. (Back when jazz was still subversive and cool.)

The Formula: Formula

Degree of Difficulty: Steven Alan makes the opposite of difficult clothing.

The Showstopper: The corduroy suit.

More looks after the jump.»

Kempt Man of the Hour: Tyson Chandler

  • Najib Benouar

Tyson Chandler

At first, the luxurious coating of snow brought on by the weekend’s blizzard only added to the high-fashion-meets-winter-wonderland spirit of the street style photos being snapped outside of NYFW.

Then it all turned to slush. Navigating sidewalks in anything less than boots became a treacherous ordeal. But in the midst of the haute melee, one man, Knickerbocker Tyson Chandler, rose to the occasion—by swooping up his wife and whisking her to the safety of Lincoln Center. Naturally, the ever-present Tommy Ton was there to catch the moment while on assignment for Style.com. The snap feels especially timely with Valentine’s Day on the horizon—not to mention a welcome dose of tenderness in the often unaffectionate fashion scene. To think, we once derided the seven-footer’s overly drapiness as the opposite of MOTH material.

Luckily, Mr. Chandler has more than redeemed himself.

Field Report: Todd Snyder’s Next-Level Outerwear

  • Najib Benouar

Snyder

Another dispatch from New York Fashion Week, which—so far—is persisting, despite the impending storm.

Leave it to Todd Snyder to somehow take all three trends we’ve been seeing lately—fur trim, leather and belted outerwear—and turn them into one spectacular coat.

In the wrong hands, all that black leather and shearling could end up looking like the sort of thing an over-the-hill mafia hit man might wear, but Snyder keeps it trim and luxe. We might choose a different pair of shoes to minimize the amount of black leather happening, but otherwise it’s exactly what you’d want to wrap yourself up in during weather like this.

At least one guy was totally prepared for the snowpocalypse today.»

Field Report: Joseph Abboud

Abboud

NYFW: it’s happening. And while none of this stuff will be available for a good seven months—or until the weather’s gone from cold to warm to cold again—we consider it of paramount importance that we keep you informed (and show you how stylish future-you could be). Hence, a series of quick-and-dirty posts on as many of the shows as we can get to.

Up first: Joseph Abboud.

The background: This is Abboud’s second menswear presentation since Bernardo Rojo took over as designer—and gave the line a younger, techier approach to tailored suiting.

The formula: equation

Degree of difficulty: Moderate, to our surprise. If you only know the brand from their ads’ sharply tailored suits, you might be surprised at the futuristic gear you’ll find here.

The showstopper: An emerald-green horsehair jacket.

The inspiration: After the jump...»

The Week that Was

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Now that the overstimulated fever dream that is Fashion Week has drawn to a close, it’s time to sort the whole mess out through a period of meditative reflection. Our favorites were rag & bone, Simon Spurr, Antonio Azzuolo, General Idea, and Band of Outsiders, but there was plenty more to see that got lost in the shuffle.

Luckily, our friends at Valet Mag have put together a comprehensive but manageable guide to all the menswear to come out of New York Fashion Week, via a little bit of well-applied Flash programming and a whole lot of legwork. Let the browsing begin.

Hot Guinness, Cold Cuts & Sketchy Men

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West, Unchained: After escaping a possible felony charge for a paparazzi scuffle at LAX, Kanye West enjoys the simple things, like fire starter Daphne Guinness. [Kanye West’s Blog]

Fat Cat Cuts: It’s not just billions in bonus money disappearing on Wall Street. Kiss your gender reassignment, door pooch and G4 goodbye. [Vanity Fair]

Worst Week Ever: Glenn O’Brien lays into New York Fashion’s biannual circus at Bryant Park [Style Guy]

Blog Alert: If The Sartorialist were a doodler... [What I Saw Today]