Let’s talk about Fashion Week. While we try to steer clear of the capital-F-ness of it all, there’s plenty of worthwhile menswear happening. So, to recap it all, we’ve scoured the usual boots-on-the-ground suspects to bring you a compendium of everything you need to know about what happened (and what you’ll be wearing in six months). Just the facts.
Not to belabor the point, but it’s still spring. Hence, we’re not into the sockless, throw-caution-to-the-warm-breeze weather quite yet. Odds are, you’re still spending some time in socks, but much like you’ve done with your sweaters, you should be ditching the wool for lighter, airier cotton knits. So we dug up the six finest cotton-blended specimens on the market right now, ranging from outrageously colorful to Breton-striped to linen-woven.
We’re thinking of Corto Maltese, the hero of a famous Italian comics series that swept through Europe alongside Fellini and Serge Gainsbourg. He’s basically an older, more rakish Tintin, dashing through the Pacific circa WWI, stirring up trouble.
The series never quite reached our side of the Atlantic, but between the nautical vibe and his easy continental charm, he’s inspired more than a few designers in his time. And more importantly, he’s mounting a comeback in the states. Maltese’s most famous book, The Ballad of the Salt Sea, gets a new edition from Rizzoli on Tuesday, complete with a fresh translation.
This SNS Herning sweater is the perfect example of anti-fashion—a timeless item that pops back up year after year as one of the menswear scene’s favorite items. So we were impressed that this lookbook managed to nail down the appeal so perfectly. That's how you do it, right down to the wet-look hair. Take notes, gentlemen.
Monitaly’s best known for Italophile suiting, but it turns out they know their way around a winter coat.
This peacoat puts five hazy stripes across the middle of the classic nautical jacket—along with yoked shoulders and a few moto-style collar snaps. It’s flashy, sure, but the colors aren’t too different from what you’d see on a Pendleton blanket, and it brings the nautical, motorcycle and Western styles together a lot better than you might expect.
Think of it as wearing your three favorite jackets at once.
This handsome snap comes from a Brooks Brothers ad circa 1987 (yes, 1987), demonstrating the proper form for the homecoming sailor. Coincidentally, it’s also one of the cheekier ways to pull off white jeans. The hat is optional.
Nowadays, going collarless tends to be a sign of schlubbiness—the first step on a long road towards sweatpants—but it doesn’t have to be that way. If you choose your crewnecks with enough care, and wear them with enough verve, it becomes a style all its own. Exhibit A: Pablo Picasso…
Take Me Out to the Ballgame: Selectism’s Nick Shonberger and Garbstore’s Ian Paley have come together for a reissue of the British Baseball Team jersey from 1938. The sleeves are enormous. [Cool Hunting]
Race Issues: John Lopez offers a sober-headed assessment of the Oscar campaigns, and incidentally threatens to kill Andrew Garfield. [Vanity Fair]
The Boot, Given: Another day, another line of hiking boots. [SlamxHype]
The Nautilus: Nautical strips continue to pop up everywhere, including a neckerchief or two. [Trendhunter]
This week’s MOTH comes from an unlikely place: an unknown artist, casually dressed, resting on a stoop in Toronto of all places.
It’s not a complicated look—or even a particularly cutting edge one—but around this time of year it’s hard to top a cable-knit sweater, Red Wings, and a pair of ruggedly autumnal pants. None of the items are particularly unusual, but that deep navy makes the sweater one of the better cable-knits we’ve seen all year, and we could say the same thing about those pants.
We never would have pegged Rogues Gallery as a furniture brand in the making…but it’s a better fit than we expected. These treated canvas floor coverings take after naval flags, but they’re large enough to cover the back porches of the world pretty handily—and since they’re built to be seaworthy, rain and snow shouldn’t put much of a dent in them. At the moment, you can only find them at John Derian or their RG shop in Provincetown, but they should be coming to eCommerce before too long. Hopefully your deck can survive until then.
It’s a tried-and-true principle: people like warm things. Hence, the holiday sweater, both as a staple of holiday party style and as a gift.
Fair Isle is still the classic, but we’d there’s room under the tree/bush for something new—in particular, this snap cardigan from SNS Herning circa 1971. It’s more of a Zissou vibe than you usually get during Bing Crosby season, but that just means the lucky giftee can wear it through to March.
And if, for some reason, he decides to join up with the merchant marine…
The nautical trend has been around for a while, but this is the first time we’ve seen it branch into the world of home décor.
This Royal Master Sealight is an exact replica of an old marine lamp, which means you’ll be able to adjust the shutters if you want things a little dimmer. It might be a bit too industrial for some places, but if you don’t mind a chrome stand in the corner, it could be just the kind of rough, functional gear that’s in vogue around now. If you’re feeling particularly handy, you could even use it to send Morse Code to the apartment across the street.
We snuck in for an exclusive peek at Rogues Gallery’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection, and the words “more of the same” have never sounded so sweet. The biggest surprise is the madras suit, which looks like it would be more at home at the fairgrounds than a fishing boat, but the rest of the gear shows off the same faded, loose-knit, maritime, worn-in vibe that’s made Rogues a favorite. Some pics after the jump of their new Fair Isle sweaters, t shirt goodness and a showstopping cotton navy sweater.
His S/S 2010 collection has a few nautical sweaters for the rugged at heard, but mostly its liberty print shorts, deck-ready button-ups and some of the better cut three-button suits we’ve seen in a while. The most interesting item might be this high-cropped denim jacket, which uses a bit of tailoring know-how to give even the most rugged item in the American wardrobe a touch of twee. Just don’t take it on deck.