May 25, 2013 world of men's style / fashion / grooming RSS
“MOTH”
03/07/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Bryan

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This week’s gent is a bit more outré than our usual tastes—that’s a wig, for starters—but it’s a great clinic in working more adventurous items into your routine.

Consider the outfit piece-by-piece. The jeans and the sweater are both mainline Uniqlo—roughly the cheapest good stuff you can buy. If you ditched the scarf, the bowtie and the overcoat, he’d look like a well-dressed temp. Those three accessories elevate him into fashion-show territory, and we’d guess he’ll be wearing at least one of them again tomorrow.

And while we’d normally find a short-sleeved, fur-lined coat to be a little over the top, when it’s over jeans and oxfords, somehow it’s not quite so intense.

As for the wig…you’ll want to work up to it slowly.

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01/18/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Dan Hendricks

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You can usually count on the best-dressed people at the trade shows to be creative director of something or other. In the case of this week’s capsule show, it was Dan Hendricks of Spiewak, demonstrating Malkovichian intensity and an excellent use of the semi-clubbed collar.

The bean boots are a sign of the slush epidemic that overtook Manhattan this morning, but the watch, tie and tie bar are all prime examples of how well modern workwear does accessories.

Most importantly, he brings a Mr. Rogers-style cardigan into the otherwise rugged mix. It’s a nice curveball, and one of the more neglected items in the winter-layering canon. Our waxed-cotton newsboy caps are off to him.

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01/10/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Fabrizio Rollo

fabriziorollo_crop.jpgvia Street Peeper, full size

Our cardinal rule of style is to dress for the occasion. And when you’re a Vogue Brazil editor on assignment in Art Basel, that means bringing your A-game.

Fortunately, when presented with said challenge, Fabrizio Rollo knocked it out of the park.

The sockless loafers speak for themselves, as does the just-weird-enough chambray tuxedo shirt—so we’ll start with those pants. We haven’t seen double pleats on a fashionista in quite a while, much less wool pants rolled above the ankle, but if you’re dressing for a cold season in a warm climate (like Miami in December or Rio in July) it’s a pretty smart move.

Throw in a summer scarf tied over both the collar and the shirt, and you’re in hall of fame territory. Take notes, gentlemen.

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01/03/11
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The Man of the Hour of the Year

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As 2010 draws to a close, we feel a solemn duty to break from our weekly MOTHing and name the single best-dressed man of the year. It was a good year for lots of gentlemen of style—Mr. Ronson, Mr. Almodóvar, even Kanye had his moments—but we’re giving the crown to someone a bit less widely known…

Ladies and gentlemen, we give you Peter, a retired chef in Berlin with a badass walking stick and a penchant for purple trainers.

He popped onto our radar thanks to Stil in Berlin (one of our favorite finds of 2010, not coincidentally), and he manages to cram nearly half a dozen unorthodox moves into one outfit. It’s the kind of exuberant dandyism that makes us happy about the whole enterprise of style—and all the more so since he’s hardly the type you’re likely to see on a runway.

Shine on, sir.

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10/25/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Carlos Campos

carloscampos_crop.jpgvia GoaG

MOTHs do not live by suits alone.

This pic of Carlos Campos at the Museum of Arts and Design’s Metalball last week proves the point pretty well. It’s a little more West Coast than we’re used to, but we haven’t seen anyone wear a leather jacket this well in a good long while.

Naturally, context is everything. The jacket wouldn’t look half as good if it weren’t bouncing off that tie—which, you might notice, is just grazing the top of his belt buckle. Add in a touch of lime green from his shirt, and you’ve got an ensemble to be reckoned with.

Of course, throwing a cropped leather jacket over work clothes is a pretty old trick, but it’s old because it’s useful, and it helps if your work clothes are as great as these. You have your mission…

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10/11/10
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Man of the Hour: Zac Posen

mothposen_crop.jpgvia GoaG

The outfits on display at high-fashion parties are usually beyond the reach of mere mortals, but we managed to find an exception at French Vogue’s 90th Anniversary party.

Behold Zac Posen, a black velvet tux and a white silk scarf.

The tux is quite handsome, but what makes it for us is the scarf. It’s the kind of Edwardian flourish you rarely see, even on black tie occasions—see also: the top hat—and elevates a simple tux into something much more interesting.

If you decide to try this one at home, be warned: finding a suitable scarf is a whole lot easier than finding a suitable tux. In addition to a perfect fit (and peak lapels, please), you’re going to want a jacket with as little sheen as possible to let the scarf stand out. It’s harder than it looks…but that’s why it’s MOTH-wothy.

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09/20/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: K. Cooper Ray

kcooperray_crop.jpgvia GoaG

It’s the pants.

This week’s MOTH comes from the preppiest place on earth, the Madison Avenue Brooks Brothers shop, during the release party for True Prep. It’s also quite possibly the only place in the world you could fearlessly sport a pair of moleskin pants embroidered with miniature pictures of dogs.

The red-headed gentleman without fear is K. Cooper Ray, proprietor of Social Primer, and give or take a pair of Gucci loafers, he’s dressed in head to toe Brooks—including that two-tone bowtie, which he had a hand in designing. It’s a lot to take in…but we’re pretty sure it’s the only way to pull off the eye-popping trousers. If it weren’t for Thom Browne lurking in the background in a shrunken gray suit, he’d easily be the best-dressed gentleman in the place.

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09/08/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Waris Ahluwalia

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Khakis and a button-up are about as attainable as style gets—but that doesn’t mean it’s simple. Case in point: this week’s MOTH pulls off the colonial cotton look about as well as possible. Waris…well played.

For starters, that means a perfect pair of slim-fit chinos in navy, making them just a touch more formal than the average slack. Add in a tucked shirt with just the right amount of billow at the waist and a surprisingly unobjectionable pair of sandals, and you’re in MOTH territory. (Standing next to Devon Aoki doesn’t hurt either.) This is the rare look that you can pull off without anything that isn’t already in your closet. Go forth, gentlemen of style…

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08/16/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Jason Schwartzman

jasonschwartzman_crop.jpgvia Popsugar

In honor of Scott Pilgrim—which is awesome, by the way—we dug up this snap of Jason Schwartzman at the premiere a couple weeks back for this week’s MOTH. And the mustache is just part of it…

Schwartzman’s so tied to Band of Outsiders (and for good reason) that it can be surprising to see him in a jacket that reaches past his wrists, but he pulls this one off just about perfectly, from the busily striped shirt to the pitch-perfect red-brown shoes.

It’s a casual way to wear a black suit—which is a harder trick than it seems.

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06/14/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Victor Glemaud

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via GQ

As you might expect, last Tuesday’s CFDA awards saw some pretty impressive getups, but our winner of the night was one Victor Glemaud, a local designer, bon vivant and influential proponent of the double-breasted tux.

For a designer, the impeccable pocket square and hip-librarian frames are pretty much a given, but going double-breasted—and playing the trad in every other respect—is a good deal smarter. The result is a elegant, red-carpet ready look that still manages to a bit sleeker than anyone else on the scene.

Given the crowd, that’s quite an achievement.

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06/07/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Andy Garcia

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Laker games are not usually known for displays of sartorial acumen, but as MB pointed out, Andy Garcia made a pretty good showing at Thursday’s game. For starters, he dressed to his age and for the weather, showing off an impeccable summer blazer and unforced pocket square while most of the grownups around him were either in T-shirts or lounge lizard costumes. (Sorry, Jack.)

More importantly, he managed to unironically pull off a Trotsky-esque mustache, which is a feat for the ages. With a touch of gray, it looks downright distinguished. Put it together with those Courbusier shades—just to make sure you know he’s not kidding—and the man’s approaching perfection.

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06/03/10
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Man of the Hour: David Beckham

beckhammoth_crop.jpgvia Vanity Fair

We usually reserve the MOTH honor for more formal outfits than what Mr. Beckham’s wearing here, but in honor of the current wave of soccer madness, we couldn’t resist a dip in more casual waters.

And it just so happens that Beckham’s sporting one of the better mixes of high and low style we’ve seen in quite some time. The jumper-and-jeans getup is practically a uniform for most European stadium games, but look closer and you’ll see a spread-collar dress shirt and (wonder of wonders) an actual tie under there. He even rolled up his sleeves to let the wide cuffs show. Granted, his taste in formalwear tends a little towards the banker-y, but if the world’s chavs start taking notes on this outfit, we could be in for a very interesting few months.

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05/24/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Jose Mourinho

mourinho_crop.jpgSee Full-Size Image Here

It’s not often we drop back-to-back Euro-MOTHs, but during this Saturday’s Champions League Final, we couldn’t help noticing the dapper-as-he-is-eccentric coach Jose Mourinho on Inter Milan’s sideline, attempting to complete an unprecedented “Italian Treble.”

Aside from the occasional egoist touch—like referring to himself as “the special one”—he conducts his team from the sideline like a maestro would a symphony. And he dresses the part. His brisk weather kits—like this one from his days coaching Chelsea—are amongst our favorites of his sideline ensembles: a tailored suit, white dress shirt, and scarf substituted for a tie.

And tied in our knot of preference, no less.

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05/11/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Justin Theroux

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It’s rare that a man gets a pair of Moscots named after him, but it’s even rarer that he does it without most people ever knowing who the hell he is. For most of the 00s, he was inseparable from those glasses, usually paired with gelled hair and a serious deadpan. Look to Mullholland Drive for the kickoff, but there’s plenty more where that came from.

But lately, he’s looking a little different»

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04/13/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Carlos de Souza

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This snap comes from a Diane Von Fustenberg opening in Sao Paolo—prime fodder for MOTHing, by any standards.

The gentleman in the middle is one Carlos de Souza, a socialite jeweler and prime example of a southern hemisphere dandy. This particular outfit caught our eye not because of the gray sharkskin suit—which works far better than we’d expect—but because he provides a master class in our favorite sartorial quirk, the neckerchief.

He’s wearing this one in true under-tie mode, stringy and simple enough to be taken for pure functionality. It’s hot out there, after all, and if you’re keeping your neck dry, you’d rather have cotton than silk. It might be the least luxurious part of his outfit, which is only right, since it’s got a job to do.

Of course, it doesn’t hurt if you’re in gaucho country.

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03/22/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: SXSW Edition

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South by Southwest isn’t exactly known for its style. In fact, the Flickr pool suggests a pretty strict uniform of cheap jeans, band tees and flannel. So we thought we’d shine a light on one of the better examples: one Tim Bluhm, of the California psych-pop outfit Mother Hips.

Given the occasion, we’d be hard-pressed to do much better. For one, this is one of the better examples of the work shirt we’ve seen all year. It’s not fancy—and no, it’s not chambray either—but it’s not supposed to be. It’s just a pitch-perfect example of an item that’s on the cusp of trendhood…not that he knows that.

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03/08/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Tahar Rahim

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There was a lot of good style on display last night, between Guy Pearce doing his best Thom Browne impression and Morgan Freeman completing his transformation into one of the coolest people in Hollywood, but our favorite had to be Tahar Rahim, star of the French gangster opus A Prophet.

The movie’s only playing in a handful of screens, and his chances of becoming a household name are just about slim to none, but somehow he managed to land the best tuxedo in Hollywood last night. Thanks to a particularly 70s-inspired vest, he manages to turn the uniform of the Oscars into something playful, without ever looking older than he is. Not bad, given he was sharing the red carpet with none other than Tom Ford.

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02/01/10
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Usher

mothusher_crop.jpgvia Getty

The music industry circuit has always been a bit more dandy-friendly than the black-tie Oscars, so it’s only right that there was a lot of style on display at last night’s Grammys. Fortunately, was enough to distract us through the music and awards-giving sections of the broadcast.

The standout for us was one Usher Raymond, who sported this light gray three-piece, with surprisingly hipster friendly piping. And, of course, we can never get enough large-check gingham.

There’s a Tony Manero vibe to the whole piece which matched the occasion just about perfectly. At just about every point in the broadcast, he looked like he was ready to bust out a moonwalk…which, if you happen to be a pop star, is a pretty good look.

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01/25/10
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The Return of the MOTH

timberlakeMOTH_crop.jpgvia LAT

There’s nothing like old times, so (by popular demand), we’re bringing back our old friend, the Kempt Man of the Hour. First on the docket: this snap of Justin Timberlake on the red carpet at the SAG awards.

Award shows are usually a bit too flashy for our kind of style, but this outfit is good enough to be an exception, thanks to that ruffled blue shirt. It’s not chambray—we checked—but the color is close enough to conjure up all manner of ruggedness. And those razor-thin lapels from Dolce & Gabbana certainly don’t hurt. All told, it’s one of the best tuxedo send-ups we’ve seen this year. Well played, sir.

Now let’s see what the Oscars send our way.

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08/13/08
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Skin Head

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*Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.*

In the course of bestowing the two MOTHs he’s pocketed so far—for an elegant all-black ensemble and the apex of equestrian chic—we issued a caveat about Alan Cumming’s occasionally overly theatrical tendencies in matters of dress. He is a quirky actor type after all, but once in a while these unfortunate propensities seem to get the better of him.

For instance…»

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05/23/08
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Hamish Bowles

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*Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.*

Gentlemen: After seven months of MOTHs, we’re pleased to announce that one of our fellows has finally scored the first hat trick in this hotly-contested sartorial series.

Author, editor and World’s Best Dressed Man contender Hamish Bowles has beat out 48 other natty candidates to be the first to put a third MOTH on his mantel. You other two-time MOTH whizzes—Alan Cumming, André Benjamin, Cameron Silver, Daniel Day-Lewis, Jonathan Rhys Meyers and Michael Stipe—not to mention the rest have got some serious catching up to do, and we’ll brook no slovenliness this summer no matter how high the mercury rises, is that understood?

More on Mr. Bowles’ trifecta»

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05/16/08
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Blondes Prefer Gentlemen

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*Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.*

A MOTH likes his WOTH s, WWLs, and whatever they call the gratuitous knockouts in *GQ* just fine, but it’s exceedingly rare to find all the qualities one desires in just one woman. Often we’ve found that at least two are required.

And when it comes to the perfect pairing, it’s hard to beat the two pictured here: statuesque stunner Jessica Stam and cooler-than-thou actress Chloe Sevigny.

More on the stunning pair»

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04/14/08
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Le Sikh, C’est Chic

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*Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.*

Ask, and ye shall receive: an extra helping of MOTH star Waris Ahluwalia for your viewing pleasure, that is. Our favorite beturbaned member of the *bon ton* is pictured here with gal-about-town Jessica Joffe at a Theory party for artist David Ellis the other night.

More on Waris and Jessica»

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Style: some people have it, and some neighborhoods really have it. To show you what we mean, we’ve partnered with Cadillac to present Style Shifters—a five-part, in-depth look at what the hippest gents in some of the country’s coolest neighborhoods are wearing now. Our intrepid photographers have roamed the streets in search of the most stylish guys around. Herewith, a few photos of what they found...

New York

Brooklyn

Williamsburg

Williamsburg, Brooklyn, is home to some of the country’s best bars and coolest restaurants—and, of course, some of the best menswear shops in the world. Naturally, you’ll find more than a few stylish individuals perched outside those locations (and no, not all of them are Billyburg hipsters). See what we mean below...

On The Streets: Brooklyn

  • Drew Ledbetter Actor
    Lives: Providence, RI

    Hometown: Chattanooga, TN / Bay Area, CA

    What We Like Drew’s shoes are made by Cole Haan.
  • Drew Ledbetter Actor
    Lives: Providence, RI

    Hometown: Chattanooga, TN / Bay Area, CA

    What We Like Drew’s shoes are made by Cole Haan.
  • Justice Hampton Works for Club Monaco
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Dallas, TX

    What We Like Leave it to a Texan to know that a linen jacket is the perfect bit of outerwear to transition you from spring to summer.
  • Justice Hampton Works for Club Monaco
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Dallas, TX

    What We Like Leave it to a Texan to know that a linen jacket is the perfect bit of outerwear to transition you from spring to summer.
  • Jamie Clawson Runs a leather accessories business (valentinegoods.com)
    Lives: East Village, New York

    Hometown: Cleveland, OH

    What We Like Jamie’s shirt is called the “Expensive” shirt by Wil Fry. Ironically, it goes for about 30 bucks.
  • Jamie Clawson Runs a leather accessories business (valentinegoods.com)
    Lives: East Village, New York

    Hometown: Cleveland, OH

    What We Like Jamie’s shirt is called the “Expensive” shirt by Wil Fry. Ironically, it goes for about 30 bucks.
  • Koppel Verma Researcher at Google
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Cambridge, MA

    What We Like Turns out, the Swiss Army makes more than knives—they also made this jacket (it’s vintage).
  • Koppel Verma Researcher at Google
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Cambridge, MA

    What We Like Turns out, the Swiss Army makes more than knives—they also made this jacket (it’s vintage).
  • Chris Afzal Audio engineer
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Baltimore, MD

    What We Like If you needed any more proof that Brooks Brothers has shed its stodgy image, these shoes should do the trick.
  • Chris Afzal Audio engineer
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Baltimore, MD

    What We Like If you needed any more proof that Brooks Brothers has shed its stodgy image, these shoes should do the trick.
  • Malik Alokpovi Host for a hotel
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Born in Togo, West Africa, but lived in the South of France

    What We Like Malik’s red suede shoes came from A.P.C. Try not to step on them.
  • Malik Alokpovi Host for a hotel
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Born in Togo, West Africa, but lived in the South of France

    What We Like Malik’s red suede shoes came from A.P.C. Try not to step on them.
  • Billy Cadden Musician
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Woodstock, NY

    What We Like Billy’s worn this shirt, which he got at H&M while on tour, at every show since.
  • Billy Cadden Musician
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Woodstock, NY

    What We Like Billy’s worn this shirt, which he got at H&M while on tour, at every show since.
  • Sam Bowstucky Bartender
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Chicago, IL

    What We Like He’s actually on his way to a working audition for a bartending job at the Blind Barber. Good luck, Sam.
  • Sam Bowstucky Bartender
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Chicago, IL

    What We Like He’s actually on his way to a working audition for a bartending job at the Blind Barber. Good luck, Sam.
California

San Francisco

Mission District

Style. The Mission’s got it. Union Square’s got it. But each of them goes about having it in a different way—the Mission rocking a more bohemian coffee shop vibe, Union Square hosting some of the best higher-fashion shops (and shoppers) on the West Coast. We rounded up a few of the most stylish folks from both. Have yourself a gander below…

On The Streets: San Francisco

  • Brian Cunningham Shop clerk
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: Boston, MA

    What We Like The first rule any SF transplant learns: always bring a light coat. Brian sticks with a denim jacket from AllSaints. (Button to taste.)
  • Brian Cunningham Shop clerk
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: Boston, MA

    What We Like The first rule any SF transplant learns: always bring a light coat. Brian sticks with a denim jacket from AllSaints. (Button to taste.)
  • Erik Newton Attorney
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Diego, CA

    What We Like Erik likes to throw on an interesting sport coat with a pocket square and skip the tie—on days he’s not in the courthouse, naturally.
  • Erik Newton Attorney
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Diego, CA

    What We Like Erik likes to throw on an interesting sport coat with a pocket square and skip the tie—on days he’s not in the courthouse, naturally.
  • Jason Moo Banker
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: New York, NY

    What We Like Jason picked up his prized pocket square at his favorite tailor, tucked away in NYC’s NoHo—Michael Andrews Bespoke.
  • Jason Moo Banker
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: New York, NY

    What We Like Jason picked up his prized pocket square at his favorite tailor, tucked away in NYC’s NoHo—Michael Andrews Bespoke.
  • Presyler Galvin Bon vivant
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Francisco, CA

    What We Like A good carry-all bag is a necessity in the city—and you won’t do much better than a Goyard. Extra points for the monogram.
  • Presyler Galvin Bon vivant
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Francisco, CA

    What We Like A good carry-all bag is a necessity in the city—and you won’t do much better than a Goyard. Extra points for the monogram.
  • Randal Ruiz Design student
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Jose, CA

    What We Like Randal fashioned those elbow pads himself—ensuring he’ll never bump into the same blazer anywhere else.
  • Randal Ruiz Design student
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Jose, CA

    What We Like Randal fashioned those elbow pads himself—ensuring he’ll never bump into the same blazer anywhere else.
Florida

Miami

South Beach
June 6

Forget everything you know about Miami style. Today’s Miamian is more LeBron James than Crockett and Tubbs—as you’ll soon see in our next edition of Style Shifters…

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Style Shifters
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