February 7, 2012 world of men's style / fashion / grooming RSS
“MOTH”
01/31/12
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Ewan McGregor

Wearing black is harder than you think.

It’s not just black suits either. Even in a more casual setting, you have to go through the minefield of assembling an outfit’s worth of matching-but-not-too-matching shades of deep gray, and then hope your complexion is warm enough that you don’t look like a corpse or a Tim Burton character.

But at last week’s W.E. premiere, Ewan McGregor pulled it off—and on a red carpet, no less. The fur collar on his coat keeps things from getting too severe, but the real trick here is the roughly textured sweater, which keeps him looking more rugged than gothic.

Add in some winter stubble and an Old Hollywood flourish of the hair, and he’s ready for his close-up.

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01/11/12
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Daniel Craig


This snap comes from last week’s Madrid premiere of Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, where Daniel Craig was holding a clinic on neutral tones, Rooney Mara was looking impishly sexy and David Fincher was threatening to clobber some poor photographer with a bike chain. (We assume.) Our favorite part is the tight dimple in Craig’s knit tie—a surprisingly tricky feat—and, of course, everything about Ms. Mara.

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01/04/12
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Tom Sturridge

Tom Sturridgevia Bauer Griffin, see it full size

Tom Sturridge is having a good week.

This snap caught the British actor just before the new year, touring Paris with Sienna Miller (nice work if you can get it) and a near-perfect collection of accoutrements.

The Wayfarers speak for themselves, but we’re also digging the wintry overcoat, the stubble and the Doherty-style fedora, which add up to a surprisingly potent getup. It’s the perfect “off-day with the lady” outfit, equal parts staying rakish for Sienna and not giving a damn what anyone else might think.

Judging from her smile, we’d say it’s working.

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12/13/11
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The Men of the Hour of the Year, 2011

There were a lot of stylish men in 2011, and we did our best to wade through them all, week by week, and pick out the best ones.

Some were just good. Others were frighteningly great. And then, there were the five best—the five gentlemen who stood atop humanity in an impeccably cut tuxedo, basking in their own handsomeness and the potential for human achievement. Those are the five we bring to your attention today…

Our top five MOTHs, in no particular order»

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11/29/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Michael K. Williams

Michael K. Williams Click to see full size

This was an easy one.

Sure, Gosling may have been gallivanting through Paris with Eva Mendes and a well-cut pea coat, but the best dressed gentleman of this particular week was Michael K. Williams, as spotted at the Hugo premiere.

The turtleneck’s handsome enough—especially when most of the crowd was in a suit and tie—but the real prize is the vaguely Cossack overcoat, complete some of the coziest lapels in the Western hemisphere.

Put them together and he looks like he just stepped out of a Cucinelli ad. Legendary stuff.

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11/15/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Zang Toi

We always respect white tie—but we respect it even more when a gentleman manages to leave his mark on the most formal, elegant vesting known to man.

In this case, the gentleman was designer Zang Toi, spotted at the opening night gala for the American Ballet Theater (a good scene for white tie if there ever was one).

It’s a given that he’s more dressed up than most of the other guests, but between the velvet jacket and the loosely knotted bow, he manages to settle into a kind of Bond Villain style that’s all his own. He looks as if he stepped in from another, better-dressed world.

Possibly one with box seats.

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11/01/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Ralph Lauren

On the heels of yesterday’s vintage Ralph pic, we’ve managed to track down a slightly more recent picture. And it looks like the man hasn’t lost a step.

This snap comes from last week’s Lincoln Center gala honoring Mr. Lauren. The guest list was pretty impressive—but we’re more interested in that double-breasted tux, a broad-shouldered, small-waisted marvel that looks like it was transported direct from 1976. In a good way.

And lest you think it’s a nostalgia trip, his son managed to pull off a similar model just as well.

Apparently outsized elegance just gets better with age.

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10/18/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Robert Downey Jr.

Robert Downey Jr.via Bauer-Griffin, see it full size.

In this case, the MOTH may be more of a good-sport award.

The picture comes from an American Cinematheque fete for Mr. Downey this past Friday, in which he was honored for his general, sustained delightfulness.

But after RDJ offered some forgiving words toward Mel Gibson and accepted his award, he entered into what seems to be a sustained mugging competition with Mel on the reception stage.

The strange thing here is that, with the loosened tie and the wayward collar, Downey actually looks less put-together than Gibson. But keeping a non-crazy look in your eye can go a long way.

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10/12/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Eddie Redmayne

Eddie Redmaynevia GoaG, see it full size

It’s always nice to see a rising star on the make—especially when he knows his way around a velvet blazer.

The gentleman in question is Eddie Redmayne, spotted at the world premiere of My Week with Marilyn in which he seduces no less than Marilyn Monroe.

The jacket is from Alexander McQueen, impressive enough in its own right, but we’re particularly taken with that tie, which Mr. Redmayne is wearing tucked into his beltline as if he just stepped off the streets of Milan.

Not too shabby.

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10/03/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Paul William

Paul Williamvia Justin Chung, see it full size

If you were waiting for the right moment to break out your Barbour…now’s the time.

This particular jacket belongs to Paul William of Goose Barnacle, snapped at yesterday’s Atlantic Antic. It’s a prime example of fall style, right down to the neutral socks and shined loafers—colorful in a muted way that only feels right once October rolls around.

Our favorite touch: a pair of shades to keep the glare out and to remind you it was summer not too long ago. Future’s so bright…

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09/26/11
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The Anti-MOTH: Jon Cryer

Jon CryerSee it full size here

We feel bad for Jon Cryer.

He was having such a good day last Monday—getting his star on the Walk of Fame, for God’s sake—but somehow, inevitably, he ended up looking like a schlub.

Maybe it was the undershirt, one of the most easily avoided sartorial sins in the book. Or maybe it was that his pants are at least two sizes too large. Or maybe, and we’re getting into deep water here, it was the schlubby resignation of it all—the sour feeling that this was as good as he would ever look, and there was no point in even showing his suit to a tailor.

Feel better, Duckie.

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09/19/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Amare Stoudemire

We’re still recovering from the frightening quantity of long ties at the Emmys, so this week’s MOTH comes from the tail end of Fashion Week, when Amare Stoudamire decided to stop by the Richard Chai show. And naturally, he dressed for the occasion.

Unlike most of the celebs passing through, Amare could actually pass for a blogger. And we mean that in a good way.

Maybe it’s the V-neck/fedora combo, which makes him seem like a well-heeled but traditional newspaperman. Or the way the tweedy touches play with NBA-standard affectations like the sleeve tattoo or the Rolex. Either way, he fit right in with the first row—which is quite a feat for an NBA man. Now where’s his GQ cover?

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09/12/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Valentino

Valentino

Not everyone feels like a rock star on Fashion Week. But not everyone is Valentino.

This picture finds the emperor at Barneys’ karaoke-themed bash on Saturday night—literally surrounded by beautiful women. It may have had something to do with the madder pocket square, or his newfound affection for bracelets, or his age-defying hair…but we like to think it was just Valentino being Valentino.

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09/06/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: George Clooney

We had a pretty good weekend. Perhaps you did as well.

But it’s a safe bet neither of us enjoyed ourselves quite as much as George Clooney, who spent last week touring Venice with Cindy Crawford and a borrowed water taxi. (That’s Crawford’s husband in the middle.) He was celebrating the premiere of his latest work behind the camera, Ides of March, but he was apparently in no hurry to lose the tuxedo.

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08/30/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Simon Hammerstein

simonhammersteinSee it full size

Friday night saw one of the better parties LA’s had in quite some time: a pop-up of burlesque club The Box, on the west coast for one night only.

The man behind it, commissioned by Belvedere Red, was the magnificently bearded Simon Hammerstein—proprietor and creative director of the Box. Naturally, he brought out his best suit and his best pair of Barker Black slippers for the occasion. He even pulled off the oft-maligned French blue shirt, to the chagrin of bloggers everywhere. It’s a lesson: if you keep your clothes simple and your fabrics dark, there’s nothing scary about a more vivid shade of blue.

And given that the crowd included Jon Hamm, Andre Balazs and Lydia Hearst, coming away as the best-dressed of the night was no small feat.

Take a look at the rest of the crowd…»
 

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08/22/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Paul Rudd

Paul Ruddvia Bauer-Griffin

This is a picture of a happy man.

Specifically, it’s a picture of Paul Rudd at the premiere of Our Idiot Brother, surrounded by four stunning co-stars. It’s a setting that would make just about anyone look good—although the midnight blue suit certainly doesn’t hurt. He even manages to pull off the tieless look, which has befuddled scores of red-carpet dwellers over the years. It goes to show, sometimes affability pays off.

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08/08/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Rentavia WWD

For the past five years, Oscar de la Renta has been hosting a private fashion show at the Fritz estate on the western shore of Lake Tahoe. You can always count on three things: a great lake view, an overwhelming number of beautiful women, and some impeccable style from Oscar himself.

Naturally, this year he did not disappoint.

On Saturday, WWD caught him taking in the show through a pair of classic tortoise-shell frames. The lapel buttons and upturned collar are the kind of thing you can get away with when you run a million-dollar label, and the poofed golden pocket square is the stuff of legend. In other words, he’s still got it.

We assume he’s got something even cooler lined up for next year.

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07/25/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Daniel Craig

Daniel CraigSee it full size, via Zimbio

A pocket square is a powerful thing.

And in the case of this weekend’s Cowboys & Aliens premiere, a red-lined linen square may have saved Daniel Craig from looking like an undertaker.

Don’t get us wrong; it’s a sharp suit. But if you imagine Mr. Craig striding purposefully down the red carpet in the same blue-to-black ensemble sans pocket square, and you could be forgiven for thinking he was about to assassinate Harrison Ford.

Instead, he’s all smiles and sun—the first time we’ve seen that from Mr. Bond in quite some time. Unless it has something to do with the watch…

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07/18/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Omar Leslie

omarleslieSee the MOTH full size

This time of year, it’s always nice to see someone who looks like he came from the beach.

In this case, the gentleman is blogger and freelance photographer Omar Leslie, who passed through the menswear frenzy known as the Capsule show in a getup equally well-suited for Aruba. A few points of interest: the dangling braided belt, the weathered ribbon on his wrist and, of course, the invisitie. And the shorts aren’t bad either.

It’s inspired our new summer style maxim: Don’t dress for where you’re going; dress for where you wish you were going.

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07/11/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Prince William

princewilliamvia Bauer-Griffin

Prince William’s tour of the colonies has had its sartorial ups and downs. There was the Tom Ford-esque double-breasted tuxedo, balanced out by the sinking realization that yes, he really was planning on wearing the same blue-gray suit through the entire trip.

But our highlight by far was this snap of his future Highness at a Santa Barbara polo club. Here, he actually looks buttoned-down—thanks to his tropical whites and a few loose buttons. Granted, we would have preferred a little less billowing in the pants (or even, gasp, white denim), but this is about as sharp as royalty’s allowed to get. Any slicker and he’d be one of the common people

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07/05/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Jamie Hince

jamiehince

Any day that sees you marrying Kate Moss is bound to be a good day.

But this past Friday, the Kills’ Jamie Hince took it one step further by joining the crowded pantheon of well-dressed rock ‘n’ roll grooms.

Instead of a tux, he opted for a powder blue double-breaster from YSL, the middle ground between Parisian chic and 80s prom. It’s sharp, but just skuzzy enough to leave his punk cred untouched—like something Mick Jagger would have worn. Throw on aviators for extra swagger, and he’s managed the impossible: getting married without settling down.

Naturally, the flower girls were impressed.

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06/13/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Reeve Carney

Reeve Carneyvia Vulture, see full size

Going to an awards show when you know you won’t win anything can take a bit of humility.

Going to an awards show when your current project is guaranteed to be the butt of half the jokes takes something closer to courage.

So we thought we’d salute Reeve Carney—Peter Parker in the ever-infamous Spider Man musical—not only for bringing some much-needed swagger to the gray bowtie, but for grinning through no less than eight jokes at the expense of his current gig at last night’s Tony Awards.

As it turns out, gentlemanliness isn’t always fun, but a few forced grins go a long way, and he made it through the night in fine form. Hats off.

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06/06/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Andre Balazs

Andre Balazsvia GOAG, see it full size

Speaking of seersucker, Andre Balazs gave a pretty thorough clinic on the uses of the seersucker suit at this weekend’s Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic.

If you’re not familiar, the Polo Classic is an annual polo exhibition that lures in celebrities, the occasional prince and a nigh unmanageable quantity of Manhattanite polo fans. And since it’s all happening on a Sunday afternoon in early June, with little to no shade…things can get a little bit warm.

So naturally, Mr. Balazs switches from his usual open-collared wool suit to an open-collared seersucker suit. (Trads will object to the loafers under a suit, but we’re willing to give him a pass given the occasion.) The touch that elevates it into MOTH-hood, however, is that umbrella—in case those storm clouds showed their teeth. Stay prepared, gentlemen.

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05/23/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: Ryan Gosling

Ryan Gosling at Cannes

The path from “respected actor” to “movie star” is an elusive, magical thing. But dressing to kill at Cannes is a pretty good first step.

We know, he’s been getting a lot of love around these parts, but this trifecta of handsomeness was too good to pass up. The two colorful tuxes are brilliant—each one catching eyes without seeming too prom-worthy—but our favorite is the Schnabel-esque getup on the right. The tropical white pants and blue spectators are both pitch-perfect formal daywear, and the untucked pajama-shirt is the stuff lookbooks are made of.

If he keeps this up, he may be headed for icon territory.

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05/16/11
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Kempt Man of the Hour: John C. Reilly

John C. Reillyanother view

This week, John C. Reilly faced two immutable, contradictory truths.

First, Cannes is very glamorous. Second, Cannes is very hot.

His solution takes a page from southern style. He arrived at the 64th Cannes Film Festival wearing a pair of shortwing spectators, a featherweight suit and a panama hat—a throwback, to be sure.

It’s the kind of thing you could imagine Chaplin wearing on his day off, but for a half-comic actor like Reilly, it’s the perfect reminder that he isn’t just appearing in Scottish psychodramas all day.

In other words, it’s the best possible way to dress like a clown. As it turns out, French cinephiles have a soft spot for them.

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