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Click Here for Part One: The Gentlemen of 2011
Part Two: The Moments of 2011
What’s in a 2011 moment? Certainly a few things we never thought we’d see: Charlie Sheen’s crack-induced webcam vlog, a Facebook-inspired revolution in Egypt, a Seal Team Six smackdown on Osama Bin Laden, the discovery of another earthly planet…
The preternaturally on-point Justin Bridges has launched a mini-campaign for the tucked tie in the past few days, starting with these snaps for Baron Wells and this out-and-out endorsement. But before you take to the streets with half a placket showing, we’ve got a few words of caution.
Unlike the army officers who started the style, you’re not in danger of getting your neckwear caught in the gears of an artillery cannon, so there’s no functional reason for the tuck. As with so many affectations, it looks a lot better on the Internet.
Having said that, there are a few rare situations in which a modern man might find it appropriate to slip his tie between the buttons of his shirt… and we’ve compiled an exhaustive list after the jump.
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via WBEA Visit to the Scrapyard: The Street Etiquette chaps indulge in some workwear with some exceedingly rugged props. [Street Etiquette]
The Razziewatch: Is Clint Eastwood due for a Razzie? Judging by the J. Edgar buzz, we’d say this could be his year. [Grantland]
The Other Kaufman’s: A tour of one of New York’s most dedicated Army-Navy outlets. [NYTimes]
Tebow vs. the World: A thoughtful, well-reasoned case for making fun of Broncos quarterback Tim Tebow. [Deadspin]
On the heels of last week’s (relatively) successful resolution in Libya, President Obama’s announcement on Sunday that all troops will be withdrawn from Iraq by the end of the year signifies the beginning of what is likely to be the steepest drop in active service men and women in recent US history.
And the perfect time, according to Sgt. Maj. of the Army Raymond Chandler, to tighten up grooming standards.
“I believe that we can better visualize to the American people and the Army what it means to be an American soldier than we’re doing now,” Chandler told Army Times. “Those can be done through personal grooming standards and standards of appearance and the uniforms we wear and how we choose to wear them. I think we can do better. Now’s the time to take a look at it.”
The classic army field jacket has been through a lot. (It’s not easy when the style icon carrying your torch is Travis Bickle.) But as the latest Maiden Noir version reminds us, it’s still a solid item to have in your closet—and now that the weather has officially shifted into swelter mode, it might be the handiest outerwear piece you’ve got.
The khaki is sharp in a colonial way, but our favorite is the midnight blue with a bright white contrast stitch, a good deal sharper than the army green equivalent you can pick up from army surplus. Our game plan: leave it hanging open with a notepad, wallet and cell phone in the pockets.
Travis would be impressed.
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Last week saw the first private space flight in human history, so we thought we’d take a moment to acknowledge one of the men who put his life on the line to make it possible. Ladies and gentlemen, Mr. Chuck Yeager.
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There are two kinds of military watch. There’s the classic infantry kind (which you can find in any number of shops) and then there’s the advanced version, the kind of watch you’d see on the wrist of one of the bad guys in Top Gun.
This Tsovet Dial is the latter.
It’s a little less earthy than the khaki-toned alternative, but by our lights this is what a watch should look like: an impervious brick of technology, as small and as black as possible. The infantry model might have the retro look locked down…but this one looks like the future.
We try not to write too much about politics, the military or women’s pants, but there’s a change coming to our armed forces and we can no longer remain silent. We’re talking, of course, about the military’s respect for large posteriors. And we’re pleased to say, that respect is growing.
The U.S. Army is currently testing a new women’s combat uniform with specific alterations for the female form. In particular, “more material… to accommodate the buttocks,” in the words of one designer. In short, it’s a victory of the indomitable female form over the baggy, shapeless military bureaucracy. And at the risk of sounding partisan, we’ll say this victory’s overdue.
God bless America.
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On the off-chance you’d gotten tired of American, British and Canadian heritage brand revivals, Grenson has a new trick for you. This waxed canvas and leather boot (spotted at the recent Compass Show) is modeled off Italian infantry boots circa World War One. That means they’re a lot lighter than your average American steelworker boot, and almost as tough. Think of it as a loose translation.
We’re entering the 11th hour of the gift guide roundup, but we’ve got a couple more that should be worth your while. You can see the full list here to catch up.
Temple specializes in deadstock WWII gear—mostly army green scarves and repurposed bags—but for their gift package, they had a very good idea: put it in a stocking. Specifically, it’s an army issue sock, with a wallet, keychain and a skeleton key necklace thrown in for good measure. It’s all good, rugged gear…and about as festive as military chic gets.
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Back in the heyday of the wristwatch—which we’d place somewhere between the 30s and the 80s—it was common for a team to receive watches as a corporate gift. It wasn’t exactly the coolest way to stockpile gear…but it makes for a hell of a vintage market.
Hodinkee just dug up this 1940s Hamilton Canteen made to commemorate the short-lived bureau of ships. It’s more of a document of military bureaucracy than a timeless source of style, but it still wouldn’t look half bad on a well-dressed wrist.
And what would vintage gear be without a story or two?
The pocketed dress shirt is an endangered species. At most, you’ll see a single, open breast pocket, but add in a couple button-flaps and you’re in work shirt territory, and it’s farther than most are willing to go.
But not everyone, apparently. We just got our hands on these pics from the recently relaunched British firm E. Tautz, and they’re boasting more prominent pockets than we’ve seen in some time. Of course, because of the British connection, we’re guessing they were after the colonial look, but it’s still an awful lot to have on your chest. Even if it looks a lot better than we would have guessed.
Oh, Rose: Rosario Dawson continues to be one of our favorite things about New York. [T Magazine]
The Most Wonderful Time of the Year: Our nation’s finest monthly prepares you with a set of St. Patrick’s Day cocktails. [Esquire]
The Good Old Days: ACL unearths a treasure trove of WWII-era military vintage. [A Continuous Lean]
Get the Led Out: The zeppelin threat is real. [Boing Boing]
There are a lot of different ways to dress for cold, but the “British gent invades Poland” look is one of the more interesting ones we’ve seen.
Nom de Guerre’s F/W ’09 collection mixes a wide range of styles, but what sticks out for us is the rough fur boot covers that look like they were lifted straight from Genghis Khan. The usual prim British tailoring and preppy shawl collars still apply, but now they look like they’re ready for the eastern front. Unlike 90% of winter collections, this one tries to outfit you for the coldest days of the year.
And a few infantry movements, while they’re at it.
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Watches aren’t all sophistication and nostalgia. Sometimes you have to go with the blocky engineer look of our forefathers.
The EP Martin Cartridge watch takes after the military high-performance watches of the 40s and 50s, with the squared off watchface that later generations pared down. It’s a pretty bold statement, as timepieces go…but it’s as close to the workwear aesthetic as we’ve seen any watch come.
Of course, if JFK isn’t quite your speed, there’s always more recent royalty to pick through. For instance, the king of pop.
Michael Jackson has fallen on hard times lately—after all, lawyers ain’t cheap—and he’s putting a few of his less essential purchases up for auction. The result is a peek behind the scenes at one of pop culture’s strangest creations, sequins and all. For a good chunk of the 80s, the glittering epaulette look was the coolest thing anyone had seen. The plastic aviators may be the only thing that survived.
The waist-length coat is a rare beast these days—especially now that the military look has ebbed—but after seeing this, we aren’t sure why.
This one comes from Opening Ceremony, and it balances the militant vibes with a few surprisingly homey touches, like braided grandpa buttons and a scarf-replacing shawl collar. You might not guess it from the silhouette, it should be downright snug.
And after all that stiff wool, we were looking for something a bit more accommodating.
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The latest F/W line from Craig Robinson confirms what we’ve long suspected: a good tailor always wins out.
Robinson comes out of the bespoke world, so he’s got an appreciation for clean lines and the occasional pair of suspenders, but it doesn’t stop him from throwing in some intricate paneling when the mood strikes him. Shuffling between through British sophistication and military precision, this line isn’t exactly on-trend, but it’s so well done that it doesn’t matter.
Good design is still good design, and good timing is no substitute.
Take it on the Chin: In honor of National Beard Month, here are a few of your options. [FashionIndie]
All the Real Girls: Gossip Girl goes completely off the rails. Not that we’re following it or anything.
[Daily Intel]
In the Army Now: Even after the trend has broken and rolled back, military jackets are still pretty great. [Shoptometrist]
Part of the Crew: Even Mme. Obama loves J. Crew, which means their world takeover is nearly complete.
[Jezebel]
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We’ve had our eye on Quentin Tarantino’s *Inglorious Bastards* for a while now, but this snap is the first sign that it might be a breath of fresh air on the style front.
*Bastards* is Tarantino’s take on war movies—specifically *The Dirty Dozen*, which deserves a post all its own—and rumors have been swirling around it since the script leaked onto the internet. Since then, there’s been a steady stream of casting rumors, including *The Office*’s B. J. Novak as “the little one,” torturey director Eli Roth as Donny Donowitz a.k.a. “the Bear Jew,” and, of course, Mr. Jolie playing Lt. Aldo Raine, the group’s leader. In other words, it’s classic Tarantino madness, with equal doses of ultra-violence, obscure filmic references and general profanity.
And anyone interested in army boots and coarse wool coats is about to get a big boost of inspiration…and maybe even sales.
Pure Oscar Gold: There’s something about Fridays and
Charilze Theron that just works. [
Bush Warrior: A Scottish pilot get’s top-brass
approval for his handlebar mustache. Good to see there’s some progress
in Afghanistan. [
Kick Up Some Dirt: Seeking a leather alternative to
sneakers in these hot times? These boots are perfect for navigating
the sand storms of Manhattan. [
Moment]
We Can’t Fix You: Aww, poor self-deifying mope rocker
Chris Martin didn’t like the questions Radio 4 asked him. Bono never
had to put up with this. [
Sweet Leaf: Hicky Freeman reopens, stoner iconography
intact. [NYMag]
Fighting Over the Flow: Some sucka is suing the Jigga
claiming he thieved his style. This may be the worst idea ever. [
Kerala]
Say, “Cheese!”: Jackass and Terry Richardson—a match made in chucklehead heaven. [High
Snobiety]
Waif Wedding: 33-year-old single mother Kate Moss bucks the statistics by declaring her upcoming nuptials. [Jezebel]
The New Demure: Vanity Fair spoofers photoshop the new polygamist-child-abusing
chic onto Hollywood’s most desired ingenues. [Vanityfair.com]
Heavy Metal: The most exciting thing to come out of Australia Fashion week might be the illegal use of military assets.
[Sydney
Morning Herald]
Office Space: ACL visits the busy laboratory of Alexander Olch. [A
Continuous Lean]
Drop Them Drawers: Remember, kids, tomorrow is “No Pants Day.” [Laughing Squid]
The Great White North: The Canadian Olympic team’s official gear is designed to combat smog and good taste. [Globe
Sports]
