Today’s must-reads from around the Internet.
The latest in our seasonal series on New York Fashion Week.
Mark McNairy’s cheekiness and deft grasp of next-level menswear were both on display today, as his runway show opened with a fog machine, had at least one expletive-riddled homage to an unsuspecting fashion editor and finished with legendary Harlem rapper Cam’ron traipsing through in a cape…
Scene: Eyebeam in NYC; fashion editors sipping on Heineken and Cheerwine, Nick Wooster catwalking a cobalt jacket with zebra shorts, a few rubber duckies and lots of camo.
Heard: A very appropriate hip-hop remix of “Stayin’ Alive” keeping pace for the models, and at least two people realizing “That’s Pusha T!” during the final look.
Every Wednesday, we’re giving you a deeper look into what makes the minds behind Kempt tick. We call it: The Kempt Five.
You can count on Mark McNairy for at least two things:
A no-nonsense attitude. And some damn handsome footwear.
Which is why Club Monaco tapped McNairy as their latest collaborator in their ongoing “Makers and Muses” campaign. There are plenty of winners in the exclusive line of the shoes, but the real standouts are these pebble-grain tassel loafers. Here’s what else you need to know.
The Story: Club Monaco continues its #menswear crusade by tapping Mark McNairy, heralded as a footwear luminary in certain circles (for good reason). They make beautiful shoes together (exclusively available at seven Club Monaco stores and online). Your feet get handsomer.
Who to Channel: A young tailor making his mark at Pitti Uomo; an aging Tom Buchanan (these shoes weren’t popularized in America till the late 1940s); a tassel-wielding-expert burlesque dancer.
When to Wear Them: These are good year-round, with rolled chinos or gray flannel trousers. Just add socks.
Degree of Difficulty: Medium. The tassels add a dandy-ish flair to an already preppy shoe, so you’ll want to keep it in the oxford cloth and tweed zone—unless you’re bold enough to go full-on Luca Rubinacci…
It’s been a big week for collaborations.
While yesterday’s unveiling of the Kanye x A.P.C. collection has been getting most of the #menswear attention, we found ourselves more interested in another transatlantic collaboration that came through on the wire: Brooks Brothers announcing their new partnership with Italian soccer club Inter Milan.
It had us wondering why such an American brand would have to go overseas to outfit a sports team—especially with dapperness in locker rooms and postgame press conferences on the rise in the US. It would be a natural progression for, say, the Knicks to step off their team bus all kitted out in Michael Bastian—as opposed to the Detroit Lions, who seem more like Mark McNairy New Amsterdam kind of guys.
And since we’re the sort of menswear journalists who answer “Why?” with “Why not?” we’ve gone ahead and dreamed up a few style collaborations we’d like to see happen in American sports, based on who’d work best together.»
Continuing their week of revelry, last night the CFDA partied penthouse-style alongside Details for the launch of their second collaboration, the Weekender Collection.
Fashion folk took to the rooftop of the Mondrian SoHo, imbibing spirits from Japan’s Suntory whiskey distillery to celebrate the event. For their second project together (following last fall’s pocket square capsule), they tapped talent from 20 top menswear designers, asking each to reimagine the classic weekender duffel bag. And reimagine they did.
A hand-painted portrait of a WWII pinup girl donning Gilded Age’s bodice, leather handles and gold-pointed studs lining the straps of Simon Spurr’s, and a lesson in schizophrenic splatter painting by way of Yigal Azrouël, to name a few.
They’re each one of a kind, and will be up for grabs on eBay starting June 10 through 17.
We know. It’s summer. Your mind is a veritable View-Master of barbecues, long-weekend sojourns and scantily clad beach flings. But eventually, after the sand settles, and Mandy heads back to Vassar, it’ll be fall. And from what we’ve seen, you’re going to look fantastic.
Herewith, the definitive list of must-have sartorial trappings from our favorite Fall/Winter ’13 lookbooks.
Next weekend marks the unofficial start to summer—which means it’s time to kick your summer preparations into high gear right now.
And above all else, you’re going to need to pick up the right pair of shades for wherever it is you plan on summering—because the sun in Cannes requires a different UV protection than the sun you’ll encounter on the music festival circuit. So we put together a handy guide for your summer’s eyewear-related needs.
By all accounts and weather forecasts, it’s glove season just about everywhere in the Northern Hemisphere—even California has been seeing temps drop perilously close to “brisk.”
And your last line of defense against that bone-chilling frigidness: a good pair of finger-sweaters.
So we went ahead and surveyed all of the hand-sheltering options out there to help you find the right ones—and in our long tradition of telling you what your sartorial choices are saying about you, we’ve put together a handy guide.
High-end fashion designers collaborating with mall brands wasn’t new in 2012, but it definitely made a big impact on menswear this year—the Gaps, the Targets, the H&Ms went all GQ, Odin and Margiela on the average consumer in the past year.
In 2013, we expect even more high-low collaborations. And since we’re essentially menswear soothsayers, we decided to let you know what to look forward to.
Diffusion lines are nothing new, but lately we’ve been seeing some bold-faced menswear names deciding to collaborate with big-box retailers for capsule collections (you might remember Odin and Target’s recent team-up).
Enter the latest high-low venture from Gap, facilitated by GQ and involving just about every so-hot-right-now designer in the menswear blogoshpere: Ovadia & Sons, Ian Velardi, Mark McNairy, Saturdays, BLK DNM and Todd Snyder. With that much talent in one shopping aisle, you’re bound to turn out more than a few exciting pieces. And since we were allowed a sneak peek at Tuesday night’s launch event (you’ll need to check a map for your nearest shopping mall on September 27 to see them yourself), we thought we’d give you the inside scoop on the most promising stuff.
It seems that with every day we draw nearer to summer, we’re granted another boldly hued curio. Today it comes in the form of this spectacular pair of oxblood saddle shoes—born from the collaboration of cult-y cobbler Mark McNairy and LA men’s shop Union. Most striking are the brick soles in neon blue. Paired with the reddish oxblood leather and white laces, these shoes have become early contenders as the ideal pair to wear to your semiformal Independence Day boat christening.
They’ll even disguise a little misplaced BBQ sauce.
We spent this morning browsing new goods at the Paul & Williams showroom, from waxed-cotton overcoats to the nautical-styled Sunspel goods above. It’ll all be hitting stores in the fall, but since there’s too much menswear here to fit above the fold, we’re tackling it piece by piece after the jump.
Mark McNairy gets a lot of love from the blogging crowd for two reasons: 1) he’s a hell of a cobbler, and 2) despite a touch of the curmudgeon, he’s clearly having as much fun designing as anyone in menswear.
His latest New Amsterdam collection is the perfect example of #2. It’s the first full collection he’s done under the label, and it sees him breaking out aloha patterns, and flower-crittered shorts alongside the usual unstructured jackets and cargo pants.
And yes, a few of his signature red-brick bucks come along for the ride. Shine on, you crotchety diamond…
It’s the golden rule of neo-trad footwear: everything looks better with a red brick sole.
The latest candidate is Keds’ depression-era Booster, the rough canvas version of their classic plim that just got a bright new bottom thanks to Mark McNairy. The result is the best kind of high-low fusion. The bottom is the same kind of 19th century style as your $200 saddle shoes, while the upper is some of roughest canvas this side of burlap. Hopefully you’ve got equally rugged socks.
We love a good repp tie. Honest.
This one comes from Mark McNairy, and it’s roughly what a repp tie looks like after 12 rounds with a Klitchko brother. Your closet may be full of slightly spun preppy staples, we’ll bet this is the only one that could inspire a literal double take.
Or a mild case of vertigo.
Until recently, cargo pants were universally reviled. But in the past couple years, a handful brave souls have rolled out subdued versions of the mid-90s sartorial nightmare—Steven Alan, Apolis Activism and Rogues Gallery, to name a few. They weren’t exactly the old version; they always stayed slim enough, with small enough pockets, to seem like they’d arrived from an alternate universe where the 90s never happened.
Nothing says autumn quite like brown suede.
To that end, we thought we’d bring your attention to this Cole Haan saddle shoe. It manages to deliver a classic shape, a handsome red brick sole and a surprisingly low sticker price—which makes for quite a trifecta. We might want to swap out the laces for something a little less sneaker-y, but after that you should have a near-perfect casual shoe.
For the pricier, more genuine article, you can look up Mr. McNairy…but nobody’s perfect.
We’d like to suggest an underrated criterion for winter coats: coziness.
The way we see it, there are plenty of great looking wool overcoats (hey, here’s one), but it’s hard to overstate the joy you’ll get from a few yards of fuzziness once November rolls around.
This Mark McNairy version is a pretty good example, thanks to that faux fur lining spilling out over the collar. It’s on the casual end, but the military vibe makes it pretty near timeless—not to mention the fact that warm fuzzy feelings tend to transcend style.
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