Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

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Encapsulated

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We don’t do much show-going at Kempt, but we couldn’t resist a post or two on the upcoming Capsule show. The semi-annual hootenanny is one of the best places to spot up-and-comers, and one of our favorite stops every year. This year’s crop includes Endovanera, Public School, Clae and Loden Dager, along with a handful of others we don’t even know about yet.

The show is happening 10-7pm this Monday and Tuesday in Angel Oresanz with over 60 labels attached. If you’re in the neighborhood, you just might see us there.

If not, we're sure you'll hear about it.

Gumshoe Style, Abboud Branches Out and Buried in Beer

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Long, Strange Trip: Our beloved Keef gets the weepy video treatment. [FashionIndie]

Watching the Detectives: In the In the Criminal Justice System the people are represented by two separate, yet equally important groups. The police who investigate crime and the tailors who dress them. These are their stories. [New York Times]

The Wright Stuff: This Grandpa Simpson mash-up is about as close as we want to get to national politics these days. [VanityFair.com]

Abboud Face: Meet Joseph Abboud's newest label, Black/Brown 1826. [DNR]

Sensible Shoes: Armand Limnander's picks for socially acceptable sneakers. [The Moment]

The Gospel According to Paul: Loden Dager designer shares his theories on manhood. [Dejour]

Heresy!: Tim Gunn tears apart the new Polgymaist chic—not like he wasn't going to hell anyways. [AOL]

Pabst Can Coffin: And now we can die. [HuffPo]

Bar Shots, Loading Dager and Glenn's Dress Code

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Belly Up to the Bar: Thank ??? someone out there is poking around Russian Elle for Bar Refaeli shots. [Goldenfiddle]

Casual Friday: We're a little surprised that this internal memo from Interview on office dress code was even necessary. We could guess that this has something to do with the magazine's new Capo di tutti capi, Glenn O'Brien—but then again, the guy doesn't always hew to the rule himself. [Gawker]

Spice on Set: Failing fashion designer Victoria Beckham teams up with failing movie mogul Tom Cruise for what will almost certainly be Ben Stiller's ugliest film since "Meet the Fockers". [FemaleFirst UK]

Bowery Boy: Does John Varvatos even have time to design anymore with all these CBGBs questions? [NYTimes]

Cheap Shots: The best suits under $500 photographed by Scott "The Sartorialist" Schuman. [Men.Style]

Word Games: Watch as three out of four panelists stuff their feet straight into their mouths while attempting to define "Hipster." [PSFK]

Shwing!: Tom Ford wants you to appreciate the human dingle as much as he does. [NYMag]

Glenn's New Gig, On Point in Brooklyn and The Body's Youth Movement

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Creative Direction: GQ's beloved Style Guy settles in behind his new desk. "Mazeltov." says us. [WWD]

All Points East: Our favorite fashion adventurers head to the distant, savage shores of Greenpoint. [Refinery29]

Mating Habits: While Petra Nemcova surprises no one by taking up with Sean Penn, Elle "The Body" Macpherson (born March 29, 1963), keeps us guessing by with a possible link to Julian Schnabel's 21-year-old son. Insert joke about cougars and High-School daydreams here. [Style Dash]

Local Boys Big in Japan: Kempt faves Loden Dager preview their Uniqlo designs with a Tim Hamilton collection on the way. [Racked]

Puff's Revenge: Mr. Combs will be sending Ms. Lopez Sean John baby clothes for her newly arrived twins. This is no way to treat the woman who helped you stash your piece from the cops. [Media Outrage]

Bidding War: Our guess; this is as close as you'll get to getting under Kiera Knightly's skirt. [Clothes Off Our Back]

Hush Puppies: Now that German police dogs have shoes, it will harder than ever to convince them that they're not people. [AP]

Hold Your Breath: That Hedi Slimane/LVMH joint venture is looking more and more like a reality - knock on wood. [Thread Trend]

Fashion Week Hangover #2

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Robert Geller

We return to our runway recaps, detailing the top ten Kempt looks from Fashion Week. It's important to note here that since most men's collections are revealed to marketers and buyers two weeks before the big festivities under the tents, most designers have a two-week jump on the women's clothiers, allowing for laid-back, open-bar presentations here and there. This may or may not have been a good thing. We'll have to check with our sponsor.

8. Loden Dager:

A little-known brand in the big scheme of things, Loden Dager has gained a good deal of popular support from editors and insiders. Some of this is due to it's colorful cast of designers, but more of it has to do with their intriguing mix of prep and subversion. Yes, yes, at their presentation (white wine) there were flat-front pants and simple overcoats a plenty. But the careful use of oversized checks, wide collars and bold color palettes made these familiar, almost conservative forms new and inviting. In particular, a ghostly slate three-piece suit was a winner. [Paper Magazine]

And #7 is...»

Tommy Under Fire, Getting Skinny and Getting Fat

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Slim Down: Italian lines adopt the skinny tie. [DNRnews]

Branded: Gun-tracing tattooers shoot selves. [Dvorak Unleashed]

Heading South: Loden Dager takes over the Times fashion blog and runs it down to Georgia. [The Moment]

The Perils of Plumber Crack: Watch you temper and your waistline. Slacking on both could wind you up in the pokey. [Styledash]

Fashioning Fatties: Is fashion making you manorexic or turning you into a big fat fattie? [Scotland on Sunday]

Hitting Reset: The British press gets you ready for 2008. [London Times]

Pity Tommy: Hilfiger still dodging racism accusations and crazies. [NY Observer]