Opening Ceremony’s light kitch and occasional summer-in-Stockholm vibes should fit well with the Japanese megabrand, and it’ll be nice to see them get a little more recognition. For now we’ll just cross our fingers and hope it’s a men’s line.
We don’t do much show-going at Kempt, but we couldn’t resist a post or two on the upcoming Capsule show. The semi-annual hootenanny is one of the best places to spot up-and-comers, and one of our favorite stops every year. This year’s crop includes Endovanera, Public School, Clae and Loden Dager, along with a handful of others we don’t even know about yet.
The show is happening 10-7pm this Monday and Tuesday in Angel Oresanz with over 60 labels attached. If you’re in the neighborhood, you just might see us there.
Watching the Detectives: In the In the Criminal Justice System the people are represented by two separate, yet equally important groups. The police who investigate crime and the tailors who dress them. These are their stories. [New York Times]
The Wright Stuff: This Grandpa Simpson mash-up is about as close as we want to get to national politics these days. [VanityFair.com]
Abboud Face: Meet Joseph Abboud's newest label, Black/Brown 1826. [DNR]
Belly Up to the Bar: Thank ??? someone out there is poking around Russian Elle for Bar Refaeli shots. [Goldenfiddle]
Casual Friday: We're a little surprised that this internal memo from Interview on office dress code was even necessary. We could guess that this has something to do with the magazine's new Capo di tutti capi, Glenn O'Brien—but then again, the guy doesn't always hew to the rule himself. [Gawker]
To that end, Uniqlo has enlisted Tim Hamilton to stitch up a microcollection, on the heels of Loden Dager’s work for them earlier this year. Hamilton got a CFDA nod last year and made a strong showing at this year’s fashion week, which we’re sure has something to do with his recent success.
All Points East: Our favorite fashion adventurers head to the distant, savage shores of Greenpoint. [Refinery29]
Mating Habits: While Petra Nemcova surprises no one by taking up with Sean Penn, Elle "The Body" Macpherson (born March 29, 1963), keeps us guessing by with a possible link to Julian Schnabel's 21-year-old son. Insert joke about cougars and High-School daydreams here. [Style Dash]
We return to our runway recaps, detailing the top ten Kempt looks from Fashion Week. It's important to note here that since most men's collections are revealed to marketers and buyers two weeks before the big festivities under the tents, most designers have a two-week jump on the women's clothiers, allowing for laid-back, open-bar presentations here and there. This may or may not have been a good thing. We'll have to check with our sponsor.
8. Loden Dager:
A little-known brand in the big scheme of things, Loden Dager has gained a good deal of popular support from editors and insiders. Some of this is due to it's colorful cast of designers, but more of it has to do with their intriguing mix of prep and subversion. Yes, yes, at their presentation (white wine) there were flat-front pants and simple overcoats a plenty. But the careful use of oversized checks, wide collars and bold color palettes made these familiar, almost conservative forms new and inviting. In particular, a ghostly slate three-piece suit was a winner. [Paper Magazine]