Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

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Todd Snyder Partners with Champion, Kids Are the New Accessories

Todd Snyder

There Will Be Sweats: Todd Snyder previews his new collection with Champion, aptly named “City Gym.”

Children as Accessories: The Cut breaks down the 10 types of people you’ll encounter at Fashion Week.

Controlled Substance: As part of John Varvatos’s new website launch, they’ve started profiling gents of character (and often with 5 o’clock shadow).

Get Layered: Wax Wane finds some good inspiration for layering cardigans and sweaters with your sport coat.

The Stat Sheet: Obermeyer St. Moritz Ski Sweater

Ski season has arrived surprisingly early in California—and it's got us fantasizing about hot chocolate, snowball fights and, especially, ski sweaters.

A good ski sweater has to do two jobs well. Firstly, it must keep you warm on the slopes—fits under a jacket well, has a zip at the collar if things get too warm. Secondly, it should be lodge-worthy for a fireside après-ski amongst new friends. Like the St. Moritz sweater from Obermeyer. Here’s what else you should know about it.

The Story: Sixty years ago, Klaus Obermeyer left Germany to start a skiing school in Aspen, CO—nestled in America’s answer to the Alps—and decided he needed the sort of ski gear that was practical and handsome. (A man after our own low-tech-loving hearts.)

Who to Channel: Jean-Claude Killy; warm mugs of spiked coffee; a holiday party in a wood-paneled ski lodge in the ’70s.

When to Wear It: Aside from skiing, this should be your go-to for any sporty fall escapades: a bike ride through the woods, ice-skating, chopping firewood, carving pumpkins.

Think of This As: The Cadillac Coupe de Ville of ski sweaters.

Fall Colors

We’re heading into deep fall—and here’s your refresher course on layering.

This snap comes from the recently released fall ’12 lookbook of Alexandre Mattiussi’s AMI line (you’ll recognize his houndstooth DB as a Fall Must Have) and is the spitting image of what you should be thinking for fall: layers, chunky knits and a shot of dark, rich color. (Though you might want to tuck in that shirt.) The entire lookbook is a good place to start if you need a reminder of how fall looks outside of a suit, so we pulled some of our favorite looks.

Your deep-fall refresher course, after the jump.»

Enter Your Secret Layer

A heavy overshirt can do wonders for your layering strategy this time of year.

And this quilted Kemsey shirt from Penfield that’s just arrived at Austin outfitter Stag might be the finest specimen we’ve seen yet. It’s cut like your favorite button-down, but quilted like your favorite down vest (or, if you’re really up on the trends, your newest blazer). It makes for the sort of layer that can hold its own as outerwear but also low-profile enough to act as the insulating layer to a light jacket—say, a raincoat. Which means it’ll be getting more use than you might expect from something that’s neither a shirt nor a jacket (nor shacket).

Call it what you want, as long as it keeps you toasty.

Joséphine de la Baume Is a Sconce

Friendly Henleys: A roundup of the finest placketed thermal shirting your fall layering requires. [Well Spent]

Heart Burning, Still Yearning: In honor of Bob Dylan’s newest album, Tempest, dropping this week, The Atlantic relives the 10 most poignant moments of his career. [The Atlantic]

Best Side: Because you ought to be getting your gambling advice from NPR, here’s an interesting tip on how to cover the spread during evening games. [NPR]

Tinker with Greatness: Nuggets of wisdom from the enigmatic man responsible for some of the most iconic shoes ever made: Nike Air Jordans. (He’s designed every single one of them.) [GQ]

The Missing Link of Layering

The polo shirt doesn’t get the credit it deserves.

Especially during this odd uneven time of seasonal transition—when a cloudy morning could just as easily turn into a balmy afternoon.

If you look past the tennis court and summer power-brunching, the polo can be an essential layering piece. Throw it under a cotton sweatshirt and a blazer before heading out the door (ditch a layer or two depending on how the day unfolds). If you’re going to attempt bridging the polo-and-blazer gambit, we’d suggest a shirt with enough collar to lie flat under your jacket’s lapel without any inadvertent popping out (or up). The polo we’ve been reaching for most often in these situations is the Riviera polo from the Brits at Sunspel. The weight is enough to hold its own (and provide more than a T-shirt would) as the temps fluctuate, yet the warp knit will keep you cool should any unseasonable warmth creep up. But there are plenty of good ones out there (you’ve probably got a few in your closet already).

Though, as of yesterday, you’ll want to stay away from the pastels.

Half Cardigan, Half Letter Jacket

American Giant

This mid-season piece comes from American Giant, the vertically integrated upstart that’s been making waves in Americana circles.

The fabric is the same heavyweight cotton you’ll find in their crewneck sweatshirts, but it’s been shaped into a snap cardigan that puts us in mind of a letter jacket. In other words, it’s only half outerwear—which is about perfect, given how shifty the weather’s been.

It’s also ideally suited for mid-level layering—say, between a white oxford shirt and a Baracuta jacket—if your jean jacket’s otherwise engaged.

The Wide Neck

Fashion Week has kicked off in earnest, and we’ve already spotted a few clever details we’re eager to see in stores. At the top of the list: the wide-necked sweater.

It’s like the boat neck on your typical Breton-striped sweater, but this one doesn’t taper to a point on the side. Really, it’s just a bigger, wider version of the crew neck. This one, seen at Hyden Yoo, doesn’t give away any nautical elements at all, aside from a knit that’s slightly thicker than usual.

Mostly, it’s more room for layering collars and ties—and good news for the Constanzas of the world.

Historic Achievements in Layering

Sometimes, four layers just aren’t enough.

This shot comes from Coggles in York, England, where things have apparently gotten cold enough that a gentleman needs a bomber jacket, cardigan, V-neck, shirt, tie and (presumably) undershirt just to walk down the street. And even more surprising, he pulls it off without looking like the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man.

It helps that he keeps his baggiest layers on the outside, like the leather bomber, while the trimmer sweater and shirt end up a few layers down. They’re also pretty thin, so he doesn’t have to size up to accommodate anything as bulky as a puffer vest.

And, of course, a sharp enough pair of red shoes will let you get away with just about anything.

The Unpuffed Vest

If you’ve been noticing a few more vests on the street, there’s a reason. A good vest is the perfect way to bulk up a fall outfit—and eke out a few more weeks without your full winter coat.

But if the standard puffer vest is a bit too woodsy for you, we’ve tracked down a better option from Schott. It’s modeled off archival garments from the ’20s, so the vibe is a lot more old-fashioned than the Reagan-era Lands’ End style. That also means swapping synthetics for old-fashioned wool, so it’ll fit under your blazer a lot more inconspicuously.

And just like the puffed version, it does wonderful things with flannel.