For our latest installment of Talking Shop, we sat down with Paul O’Neill, creative director of Levi’s Vintage Clothing, to bring you a behind-the-scenes look at the inner workings of an American fashion legend.
It was only a matter of time before the 3D body scanners used by futuristic tailoring houses got applied to more humble items like jeans and polo shirts. (If you weren’t aware of the magical laser-assisted fitting rooms that scan your every suit measurement in mere seconds, you are now.)
Twice a year, in six cities, menswear designers, buyers, editorialists and enthusiasts flock to the tailored temple of Capsule Show. Yesterday, the leather-bound steamer trunks and garment bags arrived in droves at New York’s South Street, chock-full of new collections for SS14.
Naturally, Team Kempt hit the pavement (or, you know, carpeted warehouse) of Pier 36 in the name of trend spotting and lesson learning. With over 250 brands in attendance, we thought it best to provide a bit of a highlight reel for our loyal followers.
It has come to our attention that the prominence of jean shorts, henceforth referred to as “jorts,” has been increasing in recent months. In fact, in June we even saw our friends over at GQendorsing them. (Though not their shortened nomenclature.) And suffice it to say, we’re more than a little concerned.
Knee-length denim is not a notion to be taken lightly.
Now, this isn’t the first time such a sartorial dilemma has given us pause. (See: mandals.) It’s certainly not going to be the last, either. But, as in the past, we’d rather not outright condemn such risk taking. No, instead we’d rather just give you some qualifications to consider before you go cutting that pair of pre-distressed Levi’s at the knee and calling it a day.
The international menswear cognoscenti are descending upon Florence as we speak, for the 84th installment of Pitti Immagine Uomo.
And as any well-read menswear enthusiast will tell you, it pays to know what exactly all the fuss is about (especially if you find yourself flipping through Tumblr or in a heated debate with your tailor in the next few days). So with that in mind, we’ve prepared an A-to-Z primer of talking points and trivia that should get you through the semi-annual spectacle of peacockery.
If you’re not familiar with LA’s Rising Sun & Co., just imagine for a moment what heaven would be like for an Americana-phile with a penchant for raw denim and historically accurate Gold Rush–era vestments.
Selvage denim jeans in every weight. Duck canvas chinos, reinforced ad infinitum. Racks of chambray as far as the eye can see. It’s a special place. Everything in the shop is made with a focus on craftsmanship—and mostly done on period-specific looms. Needless to say, it’s some ruggedly handsome gear. (That will likely outlast you.)
Nothing brings out a gentleman’s most pragmatic sense of personal style more than facing the hot, hot heat.
And with Coachella kicking off its two-weekend run of concerts in the sweltering California desert tomorrow, there’s no better place to witness this firsthand—especially onstage, where true wills of sartorial resolve are tested.
Which is why there are some valuable lessons to be learned from those who manage to maintain a rakish poise even when performing high-kicks in the unforgiving desert sun. (Hint: sometimes you’ve got to embrace the sweatiness.) So we present to you...