Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

Custom Jeans and Polos from SoHo’s Most Futuristic Tailor

  • Kempt Staff

jeans It was only a matter of time before the 3D body scanners used by futuristic tailoring houses got applied to more humble items like jeans and polo shirts. (If you weren’t aware of the magical laser-assisted fitting rooms that scan your every suit measurement in mere seconds, you are now.)

In fact, a small custom clothier in SoHo by the name of Acustom Apparel has set its sights on jeans and polo shirts, and our friends at UrbanDaddy Perks have got exclusive access to the program before anyone else. The jeans are cut from Cone Denim, naturally, and you can get as custom as you want with the fit and finishes. And the same goes for the polo. Most importantly, you can rest assured they’ll fit like a glove—or dad jeans, your call.

We for one welcome our new robot tailors.

Capsule Show New York, by the Numbers

  • Caitlin Ganswindt

Capsule

Twice a year, in six cities, menswear designers, buyers, editorialists and enthusiasts flock to the tailored temple of Capsule Show. Yesterday, the leather-bound steamer trunks and garment bags arrived in droves at New York’s South Street, chock-full of new collections for SS14.

Naturally, Team Kempt hit the pavement (or, you know, carpeted warehouse) of Pier 36 in the name of trend spotting and lesson learning. With over 250 brands in attendance, we thought it best to provide a bit of a highlight reel for our loyal followers.

As such, a scientific breakdown of the scene after the jump.»

The Appraisal: Jorts

Jorts

It has come to our attention that the prominence of jean shorts, henceforth referred to as “jorts,” has been increasing in recent months. In fact, in June we even saw our friends over at GQ endorsing them. (Though not their shortened nomenclature.) And suffice it to say, we’re more than a little concerned.

Knee-length denim is not a notion to be taken lightly.

Now, this isn’t the first time such a sartorial dilemma has given us pause. (See: mandals.) It’s certainly not going to be the last, either. But, as in the past, we’d rather not outright condemn such risk taking. No, instead we’d rather just give you some qualifications to consider before you go cutting that pair of pre-distressed Levi’s at the knee and calling it a day.

Herewith, we present you with this visual guide to the five times “jorts” are beyond a shadow of a doubt acceptable, after the jump...»

Your Pitti Uomo Primer: From A to Z

  • Kempt Staff

Pitti

The international menswear cognoscenti are descending upon Florence as we speak, for the 84th installment of Pitti Immagine Uomo.

And as any well-read menswear enthusiast will tell you, it pays to know what exactly all the fuss is about (especially if you find yourself flipping through Tumblr or in a heated debate with your tailor in the next few days). So with that in mind, we’ve prepared an A-to-Z primer of talking points and trivia that should get you through the semi-annual spectacle of peacockery.

Herewith, the ABCs of Pitti Uomo.»

Your Selvage Denim Hookup

  • Najib Benouar

rising sun

If you’re not familiar with LA’s Rising Sun & Co., just imagine for a moment what heaven would be like for an Americana-phile with a penchant for raw denim and historically accurate Gold Rush–era vestments.

Selvage denim jeans in every weight. Duck canvas chinos, reinforced ad infinitum. Racks of chambray as far as the eye can see. It’s a special place. Everything in the shop is made with a focus on craftsmanship—and mostly done on period-specific looms. Needless to say, it’s some ruggedly handsome gear. (That will likely outlast you.)

And the kind souls at UrbanDaddy Perks are knocking an unprecedented 20% off your next $300 purchase. Marking this the beginning of the Selvage Rush era/week.

Staying Cool at Coachella

  • Najib Benouar

Coachella

Nothing brings out a gentleman’s most pragmatic sense of personal style more than facing the hot, hot heat.

And with Coachella kicking off its two-weekend run of concerts in the sweltering California desert tomorrow, there’s no better place to witness this firsthand—especially onstage, where true wills of sartorial resolve are tested.

Which is why there are some valuable lessons to be learned from those who manage to maintain a rakish poise even when performing high-kicks in the unforgiving desert sun. (Hint: sometimes you’ve got to embrace the sweatiness.) So we present to you...

The rock star’s guide to stylishly dealing with extreme heat.»

Worldly Gents, Denim Debates and Dressing Like David Bowie

  • Kempt Staff

Tommy Ton

World Class: Four Pins sits down with the reigning champion of #menswear street photography, Tommy Ton, to count down the most stylish men of the world.

Jeaneology: Vice recounts the evolution of the now-ever-present pair of jeans.

Bowie to Bowie: Cribbing some style cues from David Bowie, courtesy of Cool Material.

Shine Bright: Making the case for the questionably expensive shoe-shine kit.

Seinfeld Style, Slick Jeans and Wes Anderson

  • Kempt Staff

Urban Sombrero: Four Pins recounts the rich sartorial history of Seinfeld by recapping the show’s greatest fashion moments.

Salve-aged Denim: A high-tech clothing solution for a problem that we can’t be sure really exists: leg-moisturizing jeans.

Middle Man: The story of one savvy programmer who managed to outsource his own six-figure job for pennies on the dollar.

How Grand: The Hollywood Reporter, er, reports that filming for Wes Anderson’s next twee opus, The Grand Budapest Hotel, is under way.