All right, the man’s not perfect. But he’s your father. And this Sunday, you have to show him that you appreciate that.
Now, fathers are certainly easier than mothers when it comes to these sorts of things. All dear ol’ Dad probably expects is your presence and a strong handshake. And maybe a card. But since he taught you not to do anything half-assed—for better or worse—you should probably go ahead and get the guy something anyway. And no excuses here; you can afford to splurge a little on the man you owe half your existence to.
From GQ to Cool Hunting to Vanity Fair, everyone’s got their opinions on where you should spend that pretty penny. So in an effort to simplify the decision, we’ve cut through all that noise and chosen our favorites… of their favorites.
The prospect of celebrating summer’s inaugural weekend might have you toying with the idea of spending the entire three days in a pair of shorts (especially if you plan on being poolside the whole time).
But going pantsless is a deceptively tricky move—wrought with pitfalls and misconceptions.
More often than not, they’re considered a necessary evil. Tom Ford famously said that a man should never wear them. Inevitably, someone will rib you with that moldy chestnut about never taking a man in shorts seriously. But in the right hands—er, on the right gams—they can be serviceable, arguably even stylish. It’s been done before, to varying degrees of success.
So, as menswear anthropologists, in our quest to find out how we got into this pantsless existential crisis, we present to you:
With the various winter galas, the holiday party circuit and awards season on the horizon, now would be a good time to start thinking about formal wear.
And in particular, thinking about a midnight blue tuxedo jacket like this, from Club Monaco. Here’s what else you need to know about it.
The Story: Ever since Aaron Levine took the design reins of Club Monaco’s men’s department, everything has been coming up handsome. And with each new season, the suiting has improved by leaps and bounds. We’d like to think of this tuxedo jacket as his pièce de résistance in this season’s crop.
Who to Channel: James Bond in Skyfall; the spirit animal of Giovanni Agnelli (a midnight blue penguin); James Bond in Skyfall (seriously, he nails it).
When to Wear It: Whenever you can get away with it. Try it with jeans, or with an open collar shirt, or with… the matching pair of navy pants.
Degree of Difficulty: The only snag you might hit is in a traditional black-tie setting—since midnight blue is a little off-book, you’ll want to keep everything else on the straight and narrow. Otherwise, throwing a tux jacket into any semiformal getup should only serve to enhance your stateliness.
Think of This As: The answer to all of your black-tie quandaries.
Bond fever is at an all-time high—due to the anticipation of Skyfall hitting theaters tomorrow.
Well, we’re feeling feverish, too. And the only prescription is: more Bond. So we went back and looked at all 23 James Bond films, spent countless hours polling hundreds of menswear scientists, former secret agents and Kempt editors to finally get down to the bottom of where each and every iteration of James Bond stands—that’s right, we even pitted Dr. No Sean Connery against Diamonds Are Forever Sean Connery. And as a caveat, we decided to bar any tuxedo business—it’s a foregone conclusion that every last one of them looks impeccable in a tux—so we could really dig deep into the sartorial psyche of each. Without further ado, we bring you this:
The gents over at Valet have uncovered the story on how Billy Reid became the official peacoat supplier of James Bond for the soon-to-be-released Skyfall. (As luck would have it, Daniel Craig had picked one up for himself a few years back and has been a fan ever since.) It’s more confirmation that Mr. Reid is still riding high. The jackets sold out instantly once a few film sleuths figured out where they came from, so another limited run is on the way, available for preorder now and shipping on the same day Skyfall is released… But of course.
Fact: the book is always better than the movie. Lesser-known fact: the ebook is even better than the book (for portability reasons, mostly). Which is why we couldn’t be happier to see Ian Fleming’s 14-book James Bond oeuvre being digitized (possibly as we speak) and released by Amazon today for your Kindle. There’s just no substitute for the written nuances that are often lost in the movies (or Sean Connery’s tomfoolery), nor the in-depth research reflected in Fleming’s writing. If you don’t have a Kindle on hand, you’ll want to notify your Q to make the proper arrangements. Unless your Miss Moneypenny already has.
Fact: the book is always better than the movie. Lesser-known fact: the ebook is even better than the book (for portability reasons, mostly).
Which is why we couldn’t be happier to see Ian Fleming’s 14-book James Bond oeuvre being digitized (possibly as we speak) and released by Amazon today for your Kindle. There’s just no substitute for the written nuances that are often lost in the movies (or Sean Connery’s tomfoolery), nor the in-depth research reflected in Fleming’s writing. If you don’t have a Kindle on hand, you’ll want to notify your Q to make the proper arrangements.
Unless your Miss Moneypenny already has.
60 Minutes hopped on the James Bond 50th anniversary bandwagon with an extremely watchable segment on 007 last night. (Side note: Anderson Cooper, first gay Bond?)
So we thought we’d kick the week off by hopping on that bandwagon with 10 randomly awesome pics from the longest-running movie franchise in history.
Bond villains have had a proud history of maniacal hairdos (and so has Javier Bardem).
From the latest round of leaked stills from the upcoming Bond release, Skyfall, we are presented with Bardem in his full blond-coiffed glory, looking nearly as evil as his bowl-cut character in No Country for Old Men, but definitely more so than his character in The Dancer Upstairs.
Scant details have been released on the nature of Bardem’s character in the upcoming film, but that gives us a pretty good litmus test.
For anyone who needed a reminder on how to wear a midnight blue tuxedo (or that a new Bond film is due out next month), here it is.
Daniel Craig is on pace to become the most stylish Bond of all time. And now that the latest Skyfall poster has been unveiled, he doesn’t seem to be losing any steam. We’ll assume he’s gone with a slightly undersized bow tie as not to undersell his tuxedo-pocket-sized pistol.
Minding your proportions is rule number one.
We usually don’t make exceptions. But when we stumbled upon The Telegraph’s obituary of Count Robin de la Lanne-Mirrlees, we felt obligated to honor him as Kempt Man of the Hour—even if it is a week past his ability to collect on it.
Mirrlees’s life story is the kind you couldn’t make up if you tried–so fantastically “Ruritanian,” in fact, that Ian Fleming leaned on their friendship for inspiration when writing the Bond novels. The obit is worth a read, and lends some insight into the sort of well-lived life a gentleman should strive for. (You’ll want to start by logging a few hundred more hours in your tuxedo.) In just a sampling of the article, things go from reading like your typical social diary (“he embarked upon a rococo career”), to verging on the absurd monologue of an arch villain who spent summers in Rangoon (he “claimed descent from an ancient Basque family, whose members were said to be born without earlobes”), to near-mythical moments of iconoclasm (as legend has it, he coined the Bond family motto, “The world is not enough”).
It’s how we all should want to be remembered one day.
The new trailer for the hotly anticipated Baz Lurhmann remake of The Great Gatsby has been tearing up the Internet today—yes, we’ve got it here—and the flashing scenes of bow ties, tweed and tossed silk shirts (they’re such beautiful shirts) read like the exclamation point on an already stylish lineup of movies for the year.
For whatever reason, we’ve noticed a steep uptick in stylish movies for 2012, and we’re looking forward to watching it all play out—beginning with Moonrise Kingdom’s fastidiously dressed-up quirkiness hitting theaters this weekend. Bond promises to make a good showing, Batman’s bound to have a tuxedo up his sleeve, Gosling’s back in Gangster Squad, we’re hearing good things about The Master, and even this week’s Anchorman 2 teaser has got our leisure-suit interests piqued. We like what we see, and we’d like to keep seeing more. (Stay classy, film industry.)
We’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: unlined grenadine makes for the perfect tie.
And this, gentlemen, is how you pull it off—courtesy of Mr. Connery (exactly five decades ago) on the set of Dr. No. (The fact that it looks like he might be holding an iPhone 5 prototype makes this photo seem all the more timely.)
Though you might want to re-button your collar and tighten up the knot on your way back into the office from that three-martini lunch.
Today in breaking Skyfall news: Daniel Craig divulges to the Washington Post, “I’m so camp in this one, I’ve gone quite far.” (Previously, all we had to go on was this photo.) And we’re not sure how we feel about it—lest you forget, he was cast as a grittier Bond in an effort to course-correct the franchise to better fall in line with the darker, less verbose Bournes and Batmans of the new millennium. And it’s been working for him quite well.
Nevertheless, the news reminded us of the Bond of yore: always at the ready with an innuendo-laced quip while dispatching a henchman or romancing the likes of Pussy Galore, Holly Goodhead or the fated-for-one-post-coital-pun Dr. Christmas Jones. It’s what’s defined Agent 007 for the better part of his film existence—meaning they’ve got a lot of material to lean on. So we dug up a possible sampling of what’s to come and distilled it down to…
Ladies and gentlemen, James Bond’s Rolex has come up for auction.
Specifically, it’s the Submariner from Live and Let Die that managed to saw through Roger Moore’s shackles in the climactic moment—and it’s coming to Christies in just under a month.
That rotating sawtooth bezel is real, although we wouldn’t count on it sawing through any ropes. (You can see from the rear face how they pulled off the trick.) The watch spent the last four decades with the film’s production designer, Syd Cain, and is only seeing the light of day now.
If you’re already burned out on Submariners, you’ll also find a Paul Newman Daytona and a million-dollar pink gold Patek Phillipe—but we doubt either one will be much use when you’re hovering over a shark tank.
Foreign action movie villains have given us a lot over the years. So when news came down the transom yesterday that Werner Herzog was joining the illustrious accented fraternity (opposite Tom Cruise, no less), we couldn’t resist a quick tour of the most memorable (and most accented) villains the movies have to offer. They seem to favor designer suits…
LinksUrbanDaddy DRIVEN A Continuous Lean A Headlong Dive A Suitable Wardrobe Archival Clothing Art of Manliness Blackbird Blog BULLETT The Choosy Beggar Coolhunting Cool Material DETAILS Die, Workwear! FashionBeans Four Pins GQ Hypebeast The Impossible Cool Jake Davis The Midwestyle Mister Mort The Moment Put This On Racked The Sartorialist The Selby Selectism Valet Vanity Fair Daily Vulture Wax Wane What I Saw Today Well Spent