Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

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Men of the Hour: Team Italy

  • Najib Benouar

061214_Italy-Brazil-SuitsThis isn’t the first time we’ve championed dressing up for a flight, and it won’t be the last, but here’s a perfect example of what we mean...

You’re looking at the Italian National Team stepping off their flight to Brazil for the World Cup. In three-piece suits.

It’s one dapper sight to behold, and unlike Team USA who, naturally, opted for sweatpants—okay, it wasn’t that bad, they wore sleek, Nike-issued warm-ups—the Italians look like they’ve dressed for the occasion. Because it’s not just about getting to the tourney, it’s about arriving on the grandest of world stages and looking like you’re supposed to be there—before even stepping foot on the pitch.

In fact, it looks a lot like their buttoned-up style of play, dubbed catenaccio

Your Pitti Uomo Primer: From A to Z

  • Kempt Staff

Pitti

The international menswear cognoscenti are descending upon Florence as we speak, for the 84th installment of Pitti Immagine Uomo.

And as any well-read menswear enthusiast will tell you, it pays to know what exactly all the fuss is about (especially if you find yourself flipping through Tumblr or in a heated debate with your tailor in the next few days). So with that in mind, we’ve prepared an A-to-Z primer of talking points and trivia that should get you through the semi-annual spectacle of peacockery.

Herewith, the ABCs of Pitti Uomo.»

Umit Benan, Trussardi and Why It All Matters

  • Najib Benouar

Tussardi

You may have heard the news of the recent split between Umit Benan and Trussardi ringing across #menswear land over the past few days (it only became official yesterday). And while it all sounded like just another power move in the tumultuous business of fashion, anyone with a vested interest in their tailoring—whether or not you’re keeping an eye on the runways—ought to know what it all could mean to them.

A quick dialogue on what went down, and why it even matters.»

Massimo Piombo Lands in the US, Dissecting Louis C.K. and a Haunting Memoir

  • Kempt Staff

Polanski

Mass Effect: Good news for Italophiles in need of a Massimo Piombo fix: Mr Porter is saving you a trip to Milan.

Not Bordello: The bookworms over at The New Yorker make a case for naming Loius C.K. the modern-day Gogol.

Hot Knife: Well Spent digs up Roman Polanski’s first film (pre-scandal) to find some handsome style cues.

After Visiting Friends: GQ sits down with their very own deputy editor, Michael Hainey, to talk about his highly buzzed-about memoir released this week.

Sideboobs and Double Monks: Five Tumblrs You Should Be Following

  • Najib Benouar

Fictional girlfriends aside, there are a lot of great things to be said about the fantastical escapism provided by the Internet.

And there’s no faster escape route than Tumblr. So since it’s Friday and we’ve got a long weekend ahead of us, we thought we’d help guide you on the pictorial menswear journey you’ll inevitably find yourself lost on, sometime in the next 72 hours. Whether you’re in the mood for super-sprezzatura, American nostalgia or just cool pictures of the extremely fashionable people traipsing around Europe—we’ve got you covered.

Herewith, the five #menswear Tumblrs you should be perusing this afternoon.»

Italian Sprezzatura Meets Swiss Precision

  • Kempt Staff

There are dive watches... and then there are dive watches—the kind that have been given the stamp of approval from the Italian navy and titans of industry alike.

We’re talking, of course, about the legendary Italian timepieces from Panerai that trace their roots back to 1860s Florence (when the designs were shrouded in military secrecy and tested on top-secret underwater missions).

Luckily, they’re not just tactical timepieces, they’re seriously handsome works of horological art—especially the black Radiomir 8 Days Ceramica, which has all of the telltale signs of Panerai’s rugged Italian-ness and Swiss precision, down to their signature case shape and Panerai P.2002 movement (produced exclusively in-house).

Just in time for your next semiformal scuba trip.

The Italian Bomber

  • Najib Benouar

The Italian upstarts over at Esemplare had us feeling for fall months ago, and finally a few of their jackets have begun to slowly trickle westward (to England, which is good news for those of us without an Italian proxy buyer on call).

Oi Polloi has just received a handful of good-looking numbers in some mossy tones that are right on time for a weekend upstate. This bomber-style jacket in particular has got all of the makings of the perfect fall accomplice—replete with shawl collar that can be turned up in the face of any strong gusts.

At all costs: protect your neck.

Double Down

  • Najib Benouar

Today in Italian shoemakers you never knew existed, meet Green George.

If these suede double monks are any indication—yes, they’re handcrafted and Goodyear welted—this is a brand you should get to know. This mustard-y suede pair of double monks was the standout from the small batch of shoes that just arrived at Por Vocação, but the waxed-suede brogues are also worth consideration as fall nears. Set your radar accordingly.

Living the Grenadine Dream

  • Najib Benouar

We’re always singing the praises of grenadine ties. (Let Mr. Bond show you how it’s done.) So here’s a bit of great news: the champions of sensible menswear trimmings at The Knottery have just unveiled a new batch of honeycomb-woven silk stunners in their webshop.

As usual, you’re getting a steal—the grenadine silk is from a legendary mill in Como, Italy, and the ties have been unlined in a way that still ensures a satisfying knot. Another nice touch: the ties come in solid colors (often you’ll find grenadine ties that have a navy base with the primary color woven into it). Like all of the Knottery’s offerings, once they’re gone you may never see them again—so you’ll want to strike while the iron is hot.

Possibly the Most Italian Shoe We’ve Ever Seen

  • Najib Benouar

Tassel loafers and driving shoes have been getting a lot of love this season—each with their own merits—but this best-of-both-worlds hybrid from the Tuscan cobblers at Arfango is a horse of a different color. You’ve got the suede, unstructured slouchy comfort of the driving shoe paired with the formal finish of a tassel loafer. It’s what you’ll want to be wearing the next time you find yourself tagging along for a semiformal soiree on the Amalfi Coast.

As it typically goes with releases of this nature—midseason, by a lesser-known overseas label—finding a pair of these is going to take a little work (or an Italian translator). So aside from hunting down a proxy, your best bet is to wait for them to wash up stateside—we’d suggest keeping an eye on Barneys, who carry Arfango, but have yet to stock this particular model. Happy hunting.

Aline Weber Is Training for a Triathlon

  • Najib Benouar

The Best of Times: It’s amazing what a keen eye for salvageable Italian shoes and a good cobbler can do for you. [Put This On]

The Trapublicans: After the President joked that his next musical performance would be a Young Jeezy tune, NY Mag speculates as to which song it should be. (We would’ve liked to see "Gangsta Grillz" in the mix). [Daily Intel]

Craig Swagger: Every year, as the NBA playoffs get into full swing, our attentions turn to… Craig Sager’s egregious suit choices. Esquire investigates. [Esquire]

Good Drugs: Next time you down a couple aspirin, know that you’re decreasing your cancer odds by 46% as well curing your hangover. [The Atlantic]