Kempt

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The Stat Sheet: Gitman Vintage x The Hill-side Floral Print Shirting Collection

  • Caitlin Ganswindt

Gitman

We’re swan-diving into the peak of summer—it’s all piña coladas and steel drums over at Kempt HQ.

Which is probably why we’re feeling this American calico floral print number from the latest just-released-to-the-web collaboration by the boys of Gitman Vintage and The Hill-side. It’s one of five new looks that’ve just landed over at Need Supply Co. Here’s what else you need to know.

The Story: Emil and Sandy Corsillo, the duo behind The Hill-side, searched the depths of Japan’s most sought-after mills for the fabric, which was then sewn into popover excellence right here in the USA by the seasoned hands of Gitman Vintage.

Who to Channel: Think George Harrison circa Lonely Hearts Club, with a shake less psychedelic absurdity and a bit more self-aware style icon à la Russell Westbrook.

When to Wear It: Now feels about right, but these bright-yellow hues will carry you straight into fall when paired with the correct shawl cardigan complement.

Degree of Difficulty: Medium. Though it’s mostly about the attitude. So button up, throw on some shades and hit the ground running.

Considering the Unlined Blazer

  • Najib Benouar

Unlined Blazer

The trick to spring-summer dressing is pretty much the opposite of fall-winter: the less layers, the better.

And one way to remove a layer while still pulling off a tailored look is to opt for an unlined blazer—preferably in the airiest weave you can find.

The giveaway of a good unlined blazer is the taped seams (our bearded friend here is doing a good job of demonstrating this, by showing the neon-taped interior of his blazer). Most blazers don’t have finished seams because they’ll never see the light of day once the lining has been sewn in. It’s a neat trick—the taped seams—but mostly a good sign of what you should be looking for in a lightweight blazer.

And we have taken the liberty of rounding up the eight finest unlined blazers on the market right now.»

A Gentleman’s Guide to Ties, Collars and Tie Knots

Ovadia & Sons

It used to be you could get by with just a four-in-hand and a smile... but times have changed. The collars are more complex, the ties are stuck between mod-thin and banker-thick, and suddenly your knot’s either busting the seams or lost in a chasm of empty fabric.

So we figured we’d boil things down to the bare essentials. After the jump, we’ll match the four most common types of collar with the ties and knots that suit them best, and along the way, show you where to pick up some of the better specimens.

Choosing the right collar, the right tie, and the right knot»

Andreea Stancu is Being Devoured by a Fur Rug

The Square of the Season: The Sartorial Advent Calendar kicks into gear with a surprisingly versatile Gitman Brothers’ pocket square. [A Headlong Dive]

The Most Expensive Car Crash in History: Earlier today, a pile-up in Japan claimed a Lamborghini, three Mercedes-Benzes and no less than eight Ferraris. Light a candle. (Yes, there’s video.) [BBC]

The Power of Blue Tweed: A nice street style shot showing off the power of blue tweed and oxblood shoes. [William Yan]

Let’s Get Lost: Bruce Weber’s sad short film about the legendary trumpet player Chet Baker. [Open Culture]

The World of Ikat

Ikat dyes have been making a comeback lately—thanks to Burkman Bros.’ various globe-trotting shirts—but we’ve found the most inconspicuous incarnation yet: a necktie. The tie comes via Gitman Bros., straying from their usual Plaid America stomping grounds. It’s not easy to pull off by any means, but if you’re in need of a challenge, this is the best one we’ve seen this season.

Stealth Seersucker

Gitman Seersucker

Now that the season of the short-sleeved button-down is in full swing, we thought we’d pass along one of our latest favorites.

It comes from Gitman Brothers Vintage (who have been killing it on the S/S/B/D front), with a secret weapon: seersucker. You might not notice without the telltale stripes, but it’s made from the same piped fabric as the more traditional version, and it’ll wear just as cool. The fit here’s close to perfect too, particularly the shoulder seam. Once things heat up, it’ll be a safer bet than your tee-shirt.

You have our permission to untuck.

You Are Being Photographed

Magic Fingers: We can all be proud to live in a world in which Jeff Goldblum plays an unannounced jazz piano set outside Coachella. [Pop & Hiss]

Camo & Madras: The latest in Gitman-related handsomeness. [Valet]

Dunking Over the Paywall: The Gray Lady stops by for a chat with Kempt icon Walt Frazier. [NYTimes]

Pouf, and He’s Gone: Gay Talese takes a stand in favor of the linen pocket square. [Gilt Manual]

A Gentleman’s Guide to the Short-Sleeved Button-Down

  • Najib Benouar

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First, the good news: it’s almost warm again.

And to aid the monumental wardrobe shift you’ll be undertaking over the next few weeks, we’d like to reintroduce you to an old acquaintance: the short-sleeved button down.

It’s the nerdy younger brother of the polo shirt, and a surprisingly difficult piece to pull off right. In theory, it’s your office-appropriate answer to summer’s unforgiving heat, but since too many gentlemen end up resembling Dwight Schrute, we thought we’d put together a modern guide to the S/S/B/D.

Here's what you need to know»

The Plunge

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Gitman Brothers has been on quite a hitting streak lately, so we’re happy to see them branching out into polo territory. And it’s not even plaid…

This polo just arrived in the Inventory shop and while it’s not quite the madras-hued opus we were hoping for, it’s pretty handsome stuff. We’ll have to try one on to see if it obeys the golden rule of polos, but in the meantime we’re more interested in that extra-deep four-button placket. Dov would be proud.

That Can’t Be…Marge

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The Hef Rides Again: We can’t help but feel that some line has been crossed. [Empire Movies]

A Hack: Michael Pollan graces us with still more rules to live by. Since he doesn’t mention candy corn specifically, we’re going to assume it’s ok. [Lifehacker]

It was a Dark and Stormy Post: Secret Forts gets a turn in the spotlight. [Choosy Beggar]

Heart on Sleeve: Gitman Brothers takes us through their label archive, via an oxford button-down. [Selectism]

Going Solid

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Gitman Brothers Vintage is best known for their intricate checks, but they’ve got a few more tricks left in the archives.

This Baby Cord shirt reminds us of a few of Band of Outsiders’ more recent overdyed button-ups, but since it’s from Gitman, this is the real thing, rather than a retro recreation. As for pulling off purple, we’d say this model has it about right: find a subtly contrasting tie and a good pair of jeans and you’ll do just fine.

Buttoned Down

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Beauty is a Rare Thing: Devon Aoki lends a bit of skin to the new round of ads for Italy’s RA-RE. [FashionIndie]

We’re Detecting a Pattern: Gitman Brothers gets into the tie game with two- and ¼-inch ties in their classic plaids. They look awesome, and they're in limited stock, so click fast. [Blackbird Blog]

Funny Person: Judd Apatow is self-effacing, bearded. [A. V. Club]

We Prefer “the Ghandi”: AskMen goes servicey with a rundown of the best hairstyles for the balding. Don’t laugh; your time will come. [AskMen]

On the Chain

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Speaking of button-ups, this gray linen version just came down the transom as part of Rogues Gallery’s Spring ’09 collection, as part of a new Gitman-inspired run of short-sleeved button-ups. It’s not as seaworthy as the RG gear you might be used to, but these days we’re more concerned about beach-readiness anyway.

The trinket dangling on the model’s chest is also part of the collection, which goes some of the way to explain why he’s so unbuttoned. We’d recommend a more restrained take ourselves…unless you’re feeling Fabio-esque.