Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

Chloë Sevigny Is Glad You Like Her Dungeon

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The It Woman: Kim Gordon interviews Chloë Sevigny about thrifting, transsexuals and generally being cool. [Interview]

Enduring Style: Cary Randolph Fuller tracks down Gary Cooper’s daughter for one of the better vintage style pieces you’ll read this year. [RL Magazine]

I Am the Pirate King: The Kim Dotcom profile you’ve been waiting for. A highlight: he owned a life-size statue of the Predator (from Predator). [Bloomberg Businessweek]

Rough Business: A 95-year-old socialite has died at a Fashion Week show. [The Atlantic]

Edina Ronay is a Woman of Many Faces

An Up and Comer: An introduction to James Deen, a 5’8”, 150-pound porn star. We may have missed our calling. [GOOD]

Mr. Cooper, We Presume: The Trad has put together the definitive Gary Cooper blog post, complete with countless pictures and some heartfelt words. [The Trad]

A Mighty Growl: That growler might be ruining your beer. In fact, it’s almost certainly ruining your beer. [Bon Appetit]

Rhapsody in Blue: Bill Nighy loves a dark blue suit—as well he should. [Mr. Porter]

Alyssa Arce Didn’t See You There

The Old Ways: ACL shares the story of a traditional October hunting trip, complete with video. [A Continuous Lean]

Awesome People Hanging Out Together: We know, it sounds like a blogger fantasy, but apparently Picasso and Gary Cooper were pretty close in the ’50s. [Driven]

All in the Weave: A look at the faces, threads and machines that bring you Harris Tweed. [Brain Pickings]

Cords of the Future: And in honor of Corduroy Day (that’s 11/11/11, get it?), we offer this pair of Ovadia cargo cords. [Ovadia & Sons]

And to all a good weekend!

Anderson & Sheppard’s Greatest Hits

There’s a fantastic piece on Anderson & Sheppard in this month’s Vanity Fair, presumably inspired by Graydon Carter’s book on the same. It gives a view of the Savile Row tailoring house from their beginnings in 1906 as a civilian reaction to the military styles that dominated men’s tailoring at the time. Over the next few decades, they more or less invented the modern business suit.

One particular surprise: just like Band of Outsiders and (gulp) Ed Hardy, their path to the top ran through Hollywood. They converted Fred Astaire and a few of his friends, and have never wanted for business since.

So to show you that British drape up close—we’ve put together a few of our favorite pics from Anderson & Sheppard’s first generation of fans, including Gary Cooper, Rudolph Valentino and Laurence Olivier.

See pictures of Anderson & Sheppard at their best…»

The Sun is Hot and the Dock is Open

The Non-Hipster Vespa: Here’s a picture of Gary Cooper in a Brioni suit, riding a Vespa. He doesn’t seem happy about it. [Driven]

The Man in the Mustache: Nick Wooster weighs in on tattoos and aging. He doesn’t recommend either. [Esquire]

Another Day, Another Monkstrap: DC Lewis is stepping it up. [The Pursuit Aesthetic]

Seriously, Try It: A brief history of “Try a Little Tenderness.” [The Awl]

Golden Age

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One of the startling things about Old Hollywood photographs is how comfortable all the stars are with elegance. Gary Cooper made his living playing tough guys, but when he put on a suit, he didn’t forget details like the pocket square, and he didn’t fall into knee-jerk simplicity. He wasn’t afraid to dress up.

We’ve gushed about Cooper before, but this time we got a little better peek at his wardrobe. The pic comes from an exhibit at the International Center for Photography, spanning from 1923 to 1937. We aren’t surprised Cooper made the cut. During those years, he may have been the most glamorous man in Hollywood.

Any McQueen comparisons are purely coincidental…

Dapper Deities

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*Photo courtesy of Steidl*

A precious glimpse at one of the world's most incredible photo collections from the golden age of Hollywood is to be found in Robert Dance's opulent new book, *Glamour of the Gods*. The pix are all from the archives of John Kobal, who was one of the first to collect studio portraits of stars like Greta Garbo, Marlon Brando, Marlene Dietrich, Humphrey Bogart, Grace Kelly and Rita Hayworth, realizing they'd one day be equally important, if not more so, than the movies they made.

Above is Clarence Sinclair Bull's incredibly elegant study of Gary Cooper, done for MGM in 1934, one of our favorite photos of all time. Further evidence, as if we required any, that they don't make movie stars—or even photographs—like they used to.