May 24, 2013 world of men's style / fashion / grooming RSS
“Fedoras”
02/22/13
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What's What

Five Failing Institutions That Should Get into Menswear

USPS Fashion

The recent news that the US Postal Service is launching a clothing line in an effort to right its financial woes has taken the menswear blogosphere by storm.

While we’d rather not speculate too much on the upcoming line until we see it (other than that the name “Rain, Heat, Snow” suggests a lot of outerwear and a hunch that a lot of “mail-carrier blue” will be involved), we’re excited about the prospect of menswear saving faltering institutions. It’s so crazy, it just might work. And if it does, we can think of a few more American companies in financial distress that could benefit from starting their own menswear lines.

Wherein menswear saves the day… and Twinkies: the Five Companies That Should Follow the USPS into the Menswear Game.»
 

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01/24/13
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The Past

John Belushi in His Natural Habitat

Today would’ve been John Belushi’s 64th birthday, and of all his memorable comedic moments, his turn as half of the outlaw do-gooders in black suits, fedoras and Wayfarers has always resonated with us most. So we’ve dug up some rarely seen photos of him in full Blues Brothers regalia to commemorate Belushi the elder.

We’re pretty sure that if he were still around to celebrate 64, it would look very similar to this.»
 

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01/11/13
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Filmic

Ryan Gosling’s Gangster Squad Fedora Is 2013’s Scorpion Jacket

Ryan Gosling Blue Fedora Gangster Squad

This weekend, the marked uptick in on-screen handsomeness continues with Gangster Squad finally hitting theaters.

We caught a screening earlier this week, and throughout all of the expected Eisenhower-era dapperness, there was one scene that really struck us. Naturally, it involved one Ryan Gosling, but the real scene-stealer was his dusty-blue fedora. With all the charcoals and browns atop everyone else’s heads, when Gosling donned the blue hat mid-film, we knew things were about to get a little more badass. (And they did.) We did a little research—each gent had his hats done separately, but Gosling’s hat was a custom job from a milliner in Chicago.

And thanks to menswear’s recently rekindled love affair with hats, we’re sensing this could be the silk scorpion jacket of 2013.

After the jump, a few more stylish shots of the film’s fedora-clad leads.»

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08/30/12
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Object

Above the Brim

Now that we’ve got fall firmly in our sights, here’s a wide-brimmed wool topper from Andalusia, Spain, by way of French label April77, that should land you in the sweet spot between affected fashion editor and surly gaucho—and far from any fedora-related gaffs.

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07/27/12
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Pony Express

The Basics of Buying a Panama Hat

Here at Kempt HQ, we often receive letters from our readers—most of it adoring fan mail—but every so often we get a question from an inquiring soul who we feel the need to help. This week, we received a letter from a reader who was looking to buy his first Panama hat but wasn’t sure where to start.

We’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: the Panama hat is the perfect summer accomplice. But before you take the plunge, you should know a few basics: these aren’t just any straw hats—they’re hand-woven toquilla straw (from Ecuador, not Panama). It’s not all fedoras; there are a handful of classic styles to choose from. And you’ve got a major decision to make—whether you’re going to roll it or keep it crisp.

Allow us to expound on these three tenets of buying a Panama hat.»
 

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06/29/12
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Big Picture

The Disenfranchised Youth, Circa 1966

In 1966, Life magazine checked in on the street youth of Watts in the wake of riots and another dubious police shooting, and what they found was a surprisingly dapper lot. On first mention, South Central Los Angeles might not immediately conjure images of preppy shawl-cardigans, Wayfarers, rolled jeans and Thom Browne–esque pant hems—but as it turns out, these kids were pioneering the Black Ivy look well before Street Etiquette was on the scene (and doing it in the most unexpected place). A few snaps have been kicking around the blogosphere since appearing on a Brazilian blog, but in the event you don’t read Portuguese, we’ve compiled the entire spread of well-dressed rebels going about their day: admiring the Watts Towers, listening to tunes and preparing a few Molotov cocktails (just in case). One street tough in particular arrives on the scene in Clubmasters, a corduroy shacket and a pinky ring, and it’s got us looking forward to an unseasonably cool day.

More on the unlikely style of Watts in the ’60s.»
 

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05/10/12
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Filmic

Gangster, Gangster

We’ll admit, we’re suckers for 1940s gangster-chic. The fedoras, the wingtips, the tommy guns. So today’s release of the trailer for Gangster Squad (Ruben Fleischer’s Brolin-Penn-Gosling vehicle set for mid-October) piqued our interests to say the least. The homage to LA film noir is strong—and so is the gangster swagger. Naturally, the good guys are playing by bad guy rules, so the well-dressed-yet-sinister aesthetic is working for everyone. (Even for Emma Stone, playing the underworld siren caught behind enemy lines.)

Not to leave you hanging, the trailer’s after the jump. Enjoy.»
 

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03/08/12
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Labeled

Shipley & Halmos Fall/Winter ’12 Line, Annotated

Shipley & Halmos’s latest fall/winter lookbook just arrived in our inbox, and as usual, it’s pretty sharp stuff. It’s got at least two of 2012’s signature items—the shearling coat and the unstructured fedora, for those keeping score—and the whole thing is just a little bit brighter than real life usually is.

To give you a sense of what you’re seeing, we’ve broken it down look-by-look after the jump. Take a gander…

Our favorites from Shipley & Halmos’s new fall/winter line»
 

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02/16/12
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Big Picture

Keep It Under Your Hat

Flooding the zone with fedoras, courtesy of Archival Clothing. This is how your granddad did it.

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01/04/12
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Scene

Kempt Man of the Hour: Tom Sturridge

Tom Sturridgevia Bauer Griffin, see it full size

Tom Sturridge is having a good week.

This snap caught the British actor just before the new year, touring Paris with Sienna Miller (nice work if you can get it) and a near-perfect collection of accoutrements.

The Wayfarers speak for themselves, but we’re also digging the wintry overcoat, the stubble and the Doherty-style fedora, which add up to a surprisingly potent getup. It’s the perfect “off-day with the lady” outfit, equal parts staying rakish for Sienna and not giving a damn what anyone else might think.

Judging from her smile, we’d say it’s working.

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10/05/10
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Big Picture

On the Bench

vivianmaier_crop.jpg

This snap comes from a cache of negatives, newly unearthed at an auction in Chicago. The result is a surprisingly thorough document of a time when people rode horses in the middle of the street, advertised with sandwich boards and, still more shocking, wore fedoras.

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12/02/09
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Bad Idea/Good Idea

Reel to Reel

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As you may have noticed, we’re pretty impressed by fabric innovations. Which is why we’re both awestruck and perplexed by these made-to-order fedoras, made from an innovative combination of colored thread and recycled cassette tape.

The idea originated with the more understated Mixtape Tie, but it was only a matter of time before it made it to sturdier items. The crucial detail is that all the tape still has sound on it—specifically, tracks pulled from the designer’s homemade sound collages—so your precious noggin will get a dose of magnetic good vibrations for as long as you keep it on. You can even generate some music of chance if you run a tape head over it, which would certainly be a first for our wardrobe.

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03/12/08
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Scene

Kempt Man of the Hour: Terrence Howard

MOTH_howard_crop.jpg

*Photographed by our fearless lensman, Patrick McMullan.*

The gangster / jazz great look is a hard one to pull off with any measure of success. Too often practitioners err with exaggeratedly-cut or outlandishly-fabric’d suits, overly large or oddly-hued hats, ridiculous neckties, or just generally odious accessories and embellishments. The trick is to keep things as elegantly simple and classic as possible, perhaps even a little austere if you really don’t want anyone thinking you’re on your way to a costume ball.

More on today’s MOTH»

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02/27/08
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Art Threat

Shades of Brown

villa_crop.jpg

Genoese artist Nicola Villa specializes in watercolors of street scenes, making him a kind of gallery-bound Sartorialist. He’s building buzz with a couple exhibitions stateside—most notably for painting scenes in Harlem—and more than a few exhibitions in his native Italy.

This piece, called *Walking*, caught our eye»

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01/11/08
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LinkOut

Sebastian Whorsley, Middle Relief and Ascot Justice

Ashton & Demi

**Structural Support**: In the near future, girdles will actually tone your body—so go ahead and have that third brioche. [Style Dash]

**Alphabet Soup**: GQ + CFDA. [FWD]

**H to the Izzo**: Your man Sean Carter picks up another fashion label. [Female First UK]

**Viva Kimmel**: A less luxurious outlook from Florence. [Men.Style]

**Back to The Well**: More deals at Opening Ceremony. [Racked]

**Legal Suit**: Judge rules that prosecutor’s ascot, “borders on contemptuous,” a precedent soon to be employed in the case of Neckkerchief vs. State of Ohio. [Milwaukee Journal Sentinel]

**Product Placement**: Adrian Grenier pimps We Are the Superlative Conspiracy with the cryptic, “Remember… remember.” [TMZ]

**Retrospective**: 2007, the year tacky broke. [Electric Warrior]

**Small Cap Investment**: The Journal puts a “buy” order on the fedora. [WSJ]

**Boy Toy**: “How To Dress Like The Perfect Couple” by Christopher “Ashton” Kutcher. [Harper's Bazaar]

**”I Remember The First Time I Had Real Sex—I Still Have The Receipt”**: Oh, Sebastian, you scalawag you. [GQ Style Guy]

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Style: some people have it, and some neighborhoods really have it. To show you what we mean, we’ve partnered with Cadillac to present Style Shifters—a five-part, in-depth look at what the hippest gents in some of the country’s coolest neighborhoods are wearing now. Our intrepid photographers have roamed the streets in search of the most stylish guys around. Herewith, a few photos of what they found...

New York

Brooklyn

Williamsburg

Williamsburg, Brooklyn, is home to some of the country’s best bars and coolest restaurants—and, of course, some of the best menswear shops in the world. Naturally, you’ll find more than a few stylish individuals perched outside those locations (and no, not all of them are Billyburg hipsters). See what we mean below...

On The Streets: Brooklyn

  • Drew Ledbetter Actor
    Lives: Providence, RI

    Hometown: Chattanooga, TN / Bay Area, CA

    What We Like Drew’s shoes are made by Cole Haan.
  • Drew Ledbetter Actor
    Lives: Providence, RI

    Hometown: Chattanooga, TN / Bay Area, CA

    What We Like Drew’s shoes are made by Cole Haan.
  • Justice Hampton Works for Club Monaco
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Dallas, TX

    What We Like Leave it to a Texan to know that a linen jacket is the perfect bit of outerwear to transition you from spring to summer.
  • Justice Hampton Works for Club Monaco
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Dallas, TX

    What We Like Leave it to a Texan to know that a linen jacket is the perfect bit of outerwear to transition you from spring to summer.
  • Jamie Clawson Runs a leather accessories business (valentinegoods.com)
    Lives: East Village, New York

    Hometown: Cleveland, OH

    What We Like Jamie’s shirt is called the “Expensive” shirt by Wil Fry. Ironically, it goes for about 30 bucks.
  • Jamie Clawson Runs a leather accessories business (valentinegoods.com)
    Lives: East Village, New York

    Hometown: Cleveland, OH

    What We Like Jamie’s shirt is called the “Expensive” shirt by Wil Fry. Ironically, it goes for about 30 bucks.
  • Koppel Verma Researcher at Google
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Cambridge, MA

    What We Like Turns out, the Swiss Army makes more than knives—they also made this jacket (it’s vintage).
  • Koppel Verma Researcher at Google
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Cambridge, MA

    What We Like Turns out, the Swiss Army makes more than knives—they also made this jacket (it’s vintage).
  • Chris Afzal Audio engineer
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Baltimore, MD

    What We Like If you needed any more proof that Brooks Brothers has shed its stodgy image, these shoes should do the trick.
  • Chris Afzal Audio engineer
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Baltimore, MD

    What We Like If you needed any more proof that Brooks Brothers has shed its stodgy image, these shoes should do the trick.
  • Malik Alokpovi Host for a hotel
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Born in Togo, West Africa, but lived in the South of France

    What We Like Malik’s red suede shoes came from A.P.C. Try not to step on them.
  • Malik Alokpovi Host for a hotel
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Born in Togo, West Africa, but lived in the South of France

    What We Like Malik’s red suede shoes came from A.P.C. Try not to step on them.
  • Billy Cadden Musician
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Woodstock, NY

    What We Like Billy’s worn this shirt, which he got at H&M while on tour, at every show since.
  • Billy Cadden Musician
    Lives: Williamsburg, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Woodstock, NY

    What We Like Billy’s worn this shirt, which he got at H&M while on tour, at every show since.
  • Sam Bowstucky Bartender
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Chicago, IL

    What We Like He’s actually on his way to a working audition for a bartending job at the Blind Barber. Good luck, Sam.
  • Sam Bowstucky Bartender
    Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn

    Hometown: Chicago, IL

    What We Like He’s actually on his way to a working audition for a bartending job at the Blind Barber. Good luck, Sam.
California

San Francisco

Mission District

Style. The Mission’s got it. Union Square’s got it. But each of them goes about having it in a different way—the Mission rocking a more bohemian coffee shop vibe, Union Square hosting some of the best higher-fashion shops (and shoppers) on the West Coast. We rounded up a few of the most stylish folks from both. Have yourself a gander below…

On The Streets: San Francisco

  • Brian Cunningham Shop clerk
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: Boston, MA

    What We Like The first rule any SF transplant learns: always bring a light coat. Brian sticks with a denim jacket from AllSaints. (Button to taste.)
  • Brian Cunningham Shop clerk
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: Boston, MA

    What We Like The first rule any SF transplant learns: always bring a light coat. Brian sticks with a denim jacket from AllSaints. (Button to taste.)
  • Erik Newton Attorney
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Diego, CA

    What We Like Erik likes to throw on an interesting sport coat with a pocket square and skip the tie—on days he’s not in the courthouse, naturally.
  • Erik Newton Attorney
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Diego, CA

    What We Like Erik likes to throw on an interesting sport coat with a pocket square and skip the tie—on days he’s not in the courthouse, naturally.
  • Jason Moo Banker
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: New York, NY

    What We Like Jason picked up his prized pocket square at his favorite tailor, tucked away in NYC’s NoHo—Michael Andrews Bespoke.
  • Jason Moo Banker
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: New York, NY

    What We Like Jason picked up his prized pocket square at his favorite tailor, tucked away in NYC’s NoHo—Michael Andrews Bespoke.
  • Presyler Galvin Bon vivant
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Francisco, CA

    What We Like A good carry-all bag is a necessity in the city—and you won’t do much better than a Goyard. Extra points for the monogram.
  • Presyler Galvin Bon vivant
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Francisco, CA

    What We Like A good carry-all bag is a necessity in the city—and you won’t do much better than a Goyard. Extra points for the monogram.
  • Randal Ruiz Design student
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Jose, CA

    What We Like Randal fashioned those elbow pads himself—ensuring he’ll never bump into the same blazer anywhere else.
  • Randal Ruiz Design student
    Lives: San Francisco, CA

    Hometown: San Jose, CA

    What We Like Randal fashioned those elbow pads himself—ensuring he’ll never bump into the same blazer anywhere else.
Florida

Miami

South Beach
June 6

Forget everything you know about Miami style. Today’s Miamian is more LeBron James than Crockett and Tubbs—as you’ll soon see in our next edition of Style Shifters…

Kempt
Style Shifters
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