As you may (or may not) be aware—we’re in the thick of the menswear market here in NYC, with shows debuting the best of what this coming fall has in store.
We started the week off with Capsule, and while there’s a slew of fantastic happening, there are a few new kids on the block you’ll want to familiarize yourself with before September rolls back around.
You may have noticed a couple extra menswear mags on the newsstand this month: GQ’s What to Wear Now and Esquire’s Big Black Book. In our grand tradition, we read them so you don’t have to, and in this very special edition of Well Pressed, we’ve got your full breakdown of the current state of the menswear universe.
But with the seemingly infinite diversity of thicknesses, patterns, fabrics, dimensions and weaves out there... it can begin to seem just too great for one man to conquer single-handedly. So we took the liberty of rounding up some of the finest nape-drapery out there to help narrow the field—and keep you from accidentally tying on a throw blanket à la Kravitz.
The list of collaborators reads like a who’s who of menswear heavy-hitters: Rag & Bone, Engineered Garments, AC Cantarelli, Mark McNairy, Common Projects, Alex Mill and Todd Snyder. Which should lend itself well to the shop’s downtown-meets-upstate vibe. For instance, the collection launches this week with Rag & Bone’s entries—two shirts, two trousers and two jackets all made in the USA—featuring tailored updates on classics like the admiral jacket, in Italian wool and using custom buttons from the 200-year-old Waterbury Button Company. In other words: handsome stuff perfectly timed for the brisker months to come.
There are few things more autumnally satisfying than the sound of the first brittle fallen leaf crunching underfoot.
Especially when that foot is handsomely leather-clad...
Chances are, you’ve already got a go-to pair of respectably worn-in boots ready for just the occasion. But in case you’re in the market for an update, we’ve taken a moment to round up the best heavy-trodders new for this fall—from the trail-worthy to those suited for more urbane purposes—ensuring that, no matter where you are when the time comes, you’ll be handsomely prepared for some freshly raked destruction.
There’s a picture of them in the dictionary under “boat shoe.” You can wear them anywhere, from schooners to rooftop bars. And they pair with tweed and seersucker alike.
Well, now they’re unveiling something called the Gold Cup Collection—a fall arsenal of boaters, saddle shoes and chukkas perfectly timed for any autumnal adventures on the high seas or otherwise. Naturally, since originating the boat shoe in 1935, they’ve picked up a few tricks along the way, so you can expect even more ruggedly refined touches, like deerskin lining and some advanced technology to increase the grippiness of the soles in this new line.
Menswear’s favorite cravateur—Alexander Olch was mainly responsible for kick-starting the bow tie renaissance with his eponymous line—has unveiled his plans for shirt-world domination. The shirts won’t be available till August, but we managed to get a sneak peek at the three inaugural styles.
Ski season has arrived surprisingly early in California—and it's got us fantasizing about hot chocolate, snowball fights and, especially, ski sweaters.
A good ski sweater has to do two jobs well. Firstly, it must keep you warm on the slopes—fits under a jacket well, has a zip at the collar if things get too warm. Secondly, it should be lodge-worthy for a fireside après-ski amongst new friends. Like the St. Moritz sweater from Obermeyer. Here’s what else you should know about it.
The Story: Sixty years ago, Klaus Obermeyer left Germany to start a skiing school in Aspen, CO—nestled in America’s answer to the Alps—and decided he needed the sort of ski gear that was practical and handsome. (A man after our own low-tech-loving hearts.)
Who to Channel: Jean-Claude Killy; warm mugs of spiked coffee; a holiday party in a wood-paneled ski lodge in the ’70s.
When to Wear It: Aside from skiing, this should be your go-to for any sporty fall escapades: a bike ride through the woods, ice-skating, chopping firewood, carving pumpkins.
Think of This As: The Cadillac Coupe de Ville of ski sweaters.
A well-tasseled scarf can be hard to find. And now that we’re heading into brisker territory, you’re going to want a go-to woolen muffler that goes with just about any jacket you throw on before heading into the cold unknown. A good candidate for the position would be this Pendleton scarf that’s just landed at Stag Austin. Here’s what you need to know about it.
The Story: Oregon’s legendary wool mill, Pendleton, has been turning out rugged coats, blankets and the like for trappers and lumberjacks since 1863 (and since more recently, for heritage enthusiasts with a penchant for Native American patterns). This scarf comes from the Portland Collection, which means it’s even more city-worthy.
Who to Channel: Italian businessmen, WWI fighter pilots, Steven Tyler’s microphone stand.
When to Wear It: From the first morning it feels too cold for only a coat. Mandatory if snow is in the forecast. Never indoors (except on these five occasions).
Think of This As: The franchise player of your fall-to-winter routine.
Degree of Difficulty: Depends on the knot you’re going for. We’ve always been a fan of the Euro-leaning knot (fold it in half, pull the loose ends through the loop, tighten). But this particular scarf looks long enough to allow for a few wraparounds or even leaving it hanging at the nape of your overcoat in a Draper-esque manner.
Just in at Très Bien Shop is the latest batch of goods from the collaboration between the French selvage-denim-heads at A.P.C. and Detroit’s workwear mainstays, Carhartt—as far as sturdy duck canvas goes, nobody does it better than them. So, naturally, our favorite was the update on the chore coat (translation: it’s cut trimmer than the ones you’ll find in a surplus shop), the A.P.C. x Carhartt Gabrielle Jacket.