And after reading yesterday’s trend piece/preemptive eulogy, we couldn’t help but think about how the good name of normal, hardworking Normans everywhere was being dragged through the mud all over again. So we’d like to take a moment to salute the most #normcore of them all:
Menswear can seem like an old boys’ club, between all the Ralphs, the Thoms, the Billys, the Hirokis and the like...
But that’s not always the case—in fact, there are a handful of menswear-savvy women at the helm of some of our favorite labels. And we think they deserve their due. So today we’re highlighting the women behind the menswear.
GQ has just announced this year’s crop of Best New Menswear Designers—a coveted honor they’ve been bestowing upon the young Billy Reids and Thom Brownes of the menswear world for the past decade now—and this year’s four winners run the gamut from laid-back surfer chic (Aviator Nation) to tailored gear with Savile Row lineage (Bespoken) to Jay-Z’s favorite chino maker (Baldwin) and menswear’s newest favorite bag maker (Ernest Alexander).
If you recall, last year GQ upped the stakes by having each winner design a small capsule collection sold exclusively at Gap across the nation. You’ll have to wait until fall to get your hands on this year’s batch of well-priced handsomeness, so to tide you over, take a look at our favorites from the inaugural collaborations.
Tomorrow marks what would’ve been Ray Eames’s 100th birthday. We’re speaking, of course, about the little lady at the helm of this motorcycle—not to be confused with her husband, and Kempt Icon, Charles. That means she was also at the helm of the most influential husband-and-wife duo in 20th-century American design. The Eames oeuvre has been experiencing a bit of a renaissance over the past few years—by now, Tumblr has probably conditioned you to recognize their molded wood lounger or fiberglass shell chairs on sight. But there was plenty more innovation (and quirkiness) coming out of the Eames design studio: educational math videos, textiles and art.
Breaking news: starting today, you can buy clothes that Yoko Ono designed for John Lennon in 1969, at your local Opening Ceremony (and it all just landed online too).
That’s right, Yoko Ono and Opening Ceremony have collaborated on an 18-piece men’s collection that features stuff like “a jersey pullover with eyelets cut out over the nipple region” accompanied by a “lightbulb bra” (yes, this is all “menswear”). It’s a match made in high-fashion heaven—of some alternate universe where Zoolander’s Mugatu runs a sex dungeon/bed-in and breakfast that only plays songs credited to John Ono Lennon on loop. We’re not even sure if the Rick Owens crowd can get on board with this stuff, but if there’s anyone who can pull off the oddball conceptual art gambit, it’s Yoko.
Thumbing through snapshots of Fashion Week, you might get the idea that it was nothing but good ideas and great clothing, just aching to leap off the runway—but it’s not so.
For every mouthwatering-but-wearable suit, there are two more that you’d never dream of putting on your shoulders, that made it to the runway only out of artistic bombast and the enduring provocateur spirit.
It’s not a bad thing (it certainly makes things more interesting for writers), but we thought we’d take a moment to look past the gushing prose and see how five of the most outlandish outfits look in the harsh light of commerce. We’ve even picked out the rare situation when you could wear them, if you’re feeling brave and wealthy...