Welcome back to The Buy Line, where we analyze how the new market forces of menswear—driven by the Internet and the rise of a more savvy consumer—have redefined where the intersection of well-made and well-priced lands.
In the editorial world, we like to talk about trends, but some things just work. They’ve worked for decades and they’ll work for decades to come, long after the double monks of the world have come and gone. Our favorite example: the divine convergence between navy blue and khaki, the two poles of gentlemanly spring style.
The designer is Greg Chapman, the same outerwear savant behind Schott’s Perfecto Brand, so he knows his way around a jacket. But unlike the biker jackets of yore, this is all 19th-century military flourish. (Check out the brass buttons and regimental pockets, for example.) And just like those white jeans, it’s Cone denim that will build up an interesting wear even without the help of indigo.
This gentleman from the latest Acne show reminded us of a certain oft-overlooked detail.
It’s a simple thing, holding true for denim jackets and Harringtons alike. And it’s the source of the ineffable sharpness radiating from the pic…but naturally, you’re going to have to click through to find out what it is.
The denim jacket can be a tough sell—assuming you’re not in the cattle business—but it’s just about perfect for warding off early Fall briskness.
The main thing you’ll need is some rural cred, which is why this gentleman model grew out a few days of stubble before he attempted it. The big belt buckle helps too, although if you go much further you’ll be in costume territory. It also takes wear as well as anything else in your closet, provided you get one that doesn’t scream 2006 too loudly.
This Levi’s Vintage Jacket walks the line just about perfectly, combining 20s-era button detailing with some well-placed wear on the shoulders. And if you feel the urge to button it up…it might be time to switch to a thicker coat.
His S/S 2010 collection has a few nautical sweaters for the rugged at heard, but mostly its liberty print shorts, deck-ready button-ups and some of the better cut three-button suits we’ve seen in a while. The most interesting item might be this high-cropped denim jacket, which uses a bit of tailoring know-how to give even the most rugged item in the American wardrobe a touch of twee. Just don’t take it on deck.