Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

Brittany Ishibashi Is Keeping the Dream Alive

Rise and Shine: The clever gents at Esquire have come up with a new interview series entitled “Wake Up Next To...” starring the likes of Erin Wasson, Grace Potter and Ms. Ishibashi. [Esquire]

In Country: The latest episode of Put This On takes us to the heart of dandy-ism: London. [PTO]

Pitti Party: Gentlemen, it has begun. The weeklong fever dream of double-breasteds, pocket squares and uncanny peacocking that is Pitti Uomo is here. And GQ has the first set of pics from Tommy Ton. [GQ]

Great News: A burrito-constructing robot is in the works. Start saving now. [NOTCOT]

The Rules of Etiquette Circa 1866

Being a gentleman is complicated business, but at some point in the last few decades, people got squeamish about explaining how to do it. So in search of a proper etiquette guide, we had to go all the way back to 1866, with Martine’s Hand-Book of Etiquette, and Guide to True Politeness.

It’s a single guide to every situation a gentleman might face—from dressing well to encountering unattended ladies in the street (a novel experience at the time). And since you’re too busy to peruse the full 163 pages, we’ve pulled out 30 of the most useful tidbits. Here’s a taste:

An unassuming simplicity in dress should always be preferred, as it prepossesses everyone in favor of the wearer.

The modest man is seldom the object of envy.

Think like the wise; but talk like ordinary people.

It is a great and difficult talent to be a good listener, but it is one which the well-bred man has to acquire, at whatever pains.

There is a graceful manner of holding a hat, which every well-bred man understands.

There is so much more...»

Anna Selezneva Is Mostly Focused on Her Drink

Dandies in the Wild: For their F/W lookbook, Isaia takes a camping trip. If you’ve ever wanted to see how a three-piece suit looks with hip waders… [Men of Habit]

Dunderful: A new crop of bow ties, courtesy of the Swedes at Blixt & Dunder. We are impressed. [Cool Hunting]

Stop Telephoning Me-e-e-e-e-e-e-e-e-e-e-e: A professional journalist publicly quits the telephone. We give it three weeks, tops. [TechCrunch]

An Unhealthy Glow: An illustrated history of startup founders looking awkward in fashion ads. But we worry there are still more to come. [The Atlantic Wire]

Irish McCalla is Inspiring Patriotism

Irish McCalla via WBE

Three Phases: Derek Guy breaks down the three stages of the menswear aficionado. We’ll call them the freshman, the dandy and the trad. [Die, Workwear]

Ain’t No Mountain High Enough: Hand-tinted slides of 30s-era mountain climbers. A lot of sweet canes on display. [Archival Clothing]

The Fro Has Landed: An appreciation of the nexus of weirdness that was Randy Moss. [Deadspin]

A Healthy Glow: The latest sign of the apocalypse: glow-in-the-dark selvedge jeans. If anyone needs us, we’ll be stockpiling canned goods. [GQ]

The Peacock Belt

mashburnbelt

The justly famous Atlanta tailor Sid Mashburn opened up his shop for e-commerce this week. It’s a solid place to pick up staples—assuming you’ve got wide ties to go with those spread collars—but our favorite part of the shop so far is the dandyish accessories.

For instance, this printed cotton belt. It’s the kind of colorful touch that can elevate a simple khaki-and-button-down into something a lot more interesting. Glenn O’Brien’s been known to pull off a similar trick with a polka-dot silk version.

There are also madras and ancient madder versions on the site, but we prefer the full-bore dandyism of the Provencal print above.

The Ridiculously Colorful Shirt

Gant

Man does not live by blue oxfords alone.

And now that the sun’s out, you’ve got room to get a little colorful. Or, if you’re feeling ambitious, a lot colorful.

This Gant button-down comes from one of our favorite strains of dandyism: the ridiculously colorful shirt. Naturally, you’ll want to ease into it—maybe under a black suit, or peeking over the collar of a light sweater.

The game is showing just enough pattern to liven things up…but not so much that you’re blinding anyone. Once you turn your mind to it, you’ll be surprised how many ways there are to make it work. (Gilbert & Lewis also makes a slightly less sherbet-colored version, if you feel like playing with a handicap.)

And if you stare at it for long enough, you’ll be magically transported to a clambake.

Marie Liljedahl has Just Seen a Bedbug

marieliljedahl_crop.jpgvia WBE

Fine. Also, Dandy: A Stockholm gallery explores the accoutrements of modern day dandies. Apparently that involves a sweet briefcase. [WeHeart]

Social Ties: Alexander Olch turns in a Moomin-themed tie-bowtie-pocket-square set for Colette. [SlamxHype]

A Broad Canvas: Jesse Thorn walks out the difference between fused, half-canvas and full-canvas suits. [Put This On]

A Gentleman's Guide to Incepting Fools: A guide to sowing the idea seeds. In general, you need to go deeper. [Lifehacker]

The Work Boot Dresses Up

thorogood_crop.jpg

Work boots are thick on the ground this fall, but the minimalist swank of these Xanders by Thorocraft caught our eye. Made with embossed crimson leather, they’re a dandyish take on the heritage work boot and a surprisingly handy update now that we’re in the thick of fall.

Don’t let the red dye fool you into thinking that they’re not the genuine, tried and true article. The traditional work boot functionality is upheld with hand-stitched bison soles and rubber heel strikes. The comfortable cushioned insole supports complete the trifecta.

And, at seven eyelets tall, they’re the highest boots in the collection—in case, for some reason, you find yourself stomping through leaf piles.

You’re So Vain

glennobrien_crop.jpg

Someone lit a fire under Glenn O’Brien.

For his most recent Style Guy missive, the perma-MOTH wrote a mini-dissertation on the resurging vanity of his fellow man. (He likes it, by the way.) He doesn’t hold back, waxing poetic on historically vain men, delving into the etymology of vain, and showing some optimism in “this new flowering of men.” Honestly, our head’s still spinning from it all, but in a good way.

For the most part, we’re in agreement. Lately, a new dandyism has re-emerged on the scene, but without the prerequisite air of entitlement. Today’s dandy is master of his own (life)style, not afraid to explore, chance a misstep, or put himself at the forefront of the most pressing of global dilemmas: sustainability, healthcare, fedora vs pork-pie.

Oh and did we mention he included a supplemental “27 Case Studies” for a dizzying 47 slides? The man has done his homework.

Dandy in the Colonies

horsley2_crop.jpg

In the old days, the drugs-and-whores memoir was a respected literary event. (I’m looking at you, McInerney.) But these days, talking too loudly about your days as a male escort is still enough to get your visa revoked.

Author of the well titled Dandy in the Underworld, Sebastian Horsley planned to have a U.S. book tour this month, but instead he got a charming eight-hour conversation with customs officials and an unceremonious flight back home. Apparently all that talk about opium and amphetamines was enough to invalidate Horsley’s travel waiver, leaving HarperCollins holding the bag. (You’d think Rupert could have pulled some strings…)

The further travails of Mr. Horsley»