The indoor scarf has been one of our favorite sartorial grace notes this winter, but if it’s going to carry into summer, we’re going to need something a bit lighter…
This is our favorite candidate so far, newly arrived from Daiki Suzuki’s final Woolrich Woolen Mills collection. It’s a summer scarf, also known as the rich man’s neckerchief, about the same weight as your lightest summer khakis.
It’s an advanced move, especially with this loud a pattern—it’s a balancing act between Aerosmith and 70s-era ascots—but style favors the bold. Pull it off and you’ll have a comfortable neck and an offbeat outdoorsy vibe to see you through summer. We suggest a soft-shouldered cotton blazer and a European Loop.
The newly arrived Woolrich Woolen Mills lookbook is pretty fantastic stuff, including at least three items we’d like to snap up as soon as we can think spring/summer thoughts again—but one particular styling note caught our attention as a little… off.
Direct your attention to this gentleman’s feet, and you’ll see something you haven’t seen in a lookbook in quite some time. Yes, those are socks. And sandals. Together.
For decades, it’s been considered a crunchy faux pas—unacceptable anywhere outside of a health food store—but apparently Daiki Suzuki disagrees. And while it works perfectly with the mountain-climber chic Suzuki’s aiming at, we can’t help but think the gentleman in question would look better if he switched to hiking boots, or just let his toes wiggle free.
Daiki Suzuki’s final collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills just arrived at Blackbird, and it’s a pretty spectacular swan song . The watchwords for the season was supposed to be “hunting noir”—which might sound familiar—but the real spectacle is watching one of the key figures of the Americana revival stage one last reinvention.
All of which is to say, those Navajo prints were only the beginning. All the now-standard flannels and plaids get a little extra push into the costumey, and what once seemed like the most conservative trend in fashion enters its baroque period. It’s not particularly wearable, but if you ever need to solve a series of mysterious kidnappings in Portland, ME, you know what to wear.
Trad on the Run: The big news of the day: Mark McNairy is succeeding Daiki Suzuki as creative director of Woolrich Woolen Mills. Brilliant guy, awesome brand…there’s a reason everyone’s excited about this. We can’t wait to see what he does with it. [WWD]
Screened: A gentleman’s guide to sunscreen, without the ludicrously priced options magazines are sometimes obligated to include. Bookmark this one. [Valet]
This is Bat Country: The Times tags along with a classic car rally running from Zurich to Douz, Tunisia. It would have been a better piece if they’d taken more hallucinogens. [The Moment]
Haters No Like: In a depressingly comprehensive overview of the worst things about summer, madras gets called out as “the fabric equivalent of being harassed by a squad of lacrosse players.” Oh the rage! [Gawker]
An insider’s tip: when Christian Audigier starts copying your style, things may have gotten out of hand. Add in a winking style guide or two, and the recent renaissance of heritage brands and workwear starts to look dangerously close to played out--at least from a trendwatcher's perspective.
Corduroy is usually a little too delicate for the workwear crowd, but it looks like it’s finally getting its day in the sun.
This pair comes from Engineered Garments’ Workaday collection—the cheaper, staple-oriented diffusion line—and while there aren’t any cargo pockets or extraneous seams, it’s a lot more solid than what you’ll find at the outlet shops. And more importantly, it gets the color just right.
This shade of red might be a bit heavy for a pair of pants, but it’ll surprise you how well it goes with just about anything in your closet. It's well on its way to becoming a staple—and we’d choose this pair over just about any of the others.
To be fair, plaid neckties have been a growing presence for some time now—not least on the racks at J.Crew—but this kind of wide, large-check neckwear is more the kind of thing you’d get from J.Press, and it rarely gets this much love from the fashion-forward crowd. Matching it with your pants like this gentleman is still a pretty advanced move, but it’s good to know Mr. Suzuki’s still got love for the preppies.
If you were wondering what the cargo-pant resurgence was all about, here’s a helping hand: It should look something like this.
This field pant from Woolrich Woolen Mills packs bonuses like ripstop fabric and a pleasantly colorful plaid lining, but we’re most concerned with those pouches on the front. It won’t feel too different from jean pockets (give or take a snap), but the look is a pretty big leap forward. And because of the central pleat, you should be able to stash a blackberry in them without throwing off the drape. Eddie Vedder would be proud.
This morning’s Style section boasted a remarkably detailed summary of something that’s been going on behind the scenes for years now: the ongoing Japanese love affair with American preppy style. ACL gets a little much-deserved love, Daiki Suzuki gushes about Thom Browne’s Japanese style, and all is right with the world.
If you want to know what you’re getting in a piece of clothing, designer sketches can tell you a lot more than the average picture. So it only makes sense we’re starting to see a bit more of them.
Through what must have been an impressive feat of espionage, SlamXHype (via h(y)r) got their hands on Daiki Suzuki’s sketches for the upcoming Woolrich Woolen Mills fall line.
It’s impressive stuff, as we’ve come to expect from Suzuki, but his designs are also especially well suited to sketching. Without distracting things like color and fabric getting in the way, Suzuki’s patches and curves start to look more mathematical than nostalgic, and the whole enterprise takes on a workmanlike air. Which we’d say is only appropriate.
In fact, if you’re willing to settle for a black version (instead of Monocle’s Navy and Olive), you can get exactly the same jacket stateside for $50 less. It’s a bit surprising, since all their previous goods were whipped up just for them. We guess Mr. Suzuki didn’t want to waste any good ideas.
So we guess Monocle's contribution was picking out a couple fabric swatches?
The lightweight, unstructured fabric is simple enough, but a closer look shows all kinds of oddball details, from the ticket pocket on the right side to the puzzling cutaway around the middle button in front.
In keeping with their usual small-run strategy, only 110 of the jackets were produced (half in navy, half in olive), but we’re betting it won’t be too hard to come away with one. They’ve only been on the market a few hours…and £370 is nothing to sneeze at.
One of the nice thing about having a particular style is that it lets you turn old staples on their heads.
By now, Daiki Suzuki’s style is pretty well-known. Under the Engineered Garments label, he’s championed simple, trim workwear items from the beginning, and birthed a trend in the process. Now he’s taking on the traditionally bulky leather bomber jacket…and turning into a slim cotton twill jacket that looks like exactly what you’d expect from Suzuki.