Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

Stylish St. Paddy’s Day Green, Choosing the Best Dry Cleaner and Popping Collars

Wearing green

Green Is Good: The gents at Esky have your sartorial guide on how to incorporate green into your St. Paddy’s Day wardrobe with aplomb.

Clean Slate: Everything you need to know about dry cleaners and picking the best one nearest you, courtesy of Put This On.

What’s Popping: The Wall Street Journal proclaims the return of the popped collar. Proceed with caution.

Mr. Parker: Port interviews the head tailor at Henry Poole & Co, the storied Savile Row tailoring house that invented the tuxedo jacket and put Winston Churchill in chalk stripes.

Classifying Collars and Getting Tough on jOBS

Collar ID: The Wall Street Journal dives headlong into the issue of shirt collars and their many iterations of late.

Lloyd Banks: There’s been a considerable amount of gnashing of the teeth over the beard Goldman Sachs CEO Lloyd Blankfein grew while vacationing in Davos, Switzerland. David Coggins reports.

Totally Rad: Bullett digs deep on the aesthetic of designer Rad Hourani, only to find a conundrum wrapped in a mystery enshrouded in asexuality.

Woz Happenin’: The Woz questions the verisimilitude of the new biopic about Apple’s late, turtlenecked CEO jOBS, according to Gizmodo.

Viktoriya Sasonkina is Waiting for Sunscreen

The Great Debate: A blogger summit on the question of popped collars. We’re going to go with “for medicinal purposes only.” [Esquire]

Endless Summer: The Free & Easy guide to summer, including aloha shirts, iced coffee and dogs. [Mister Crew]

The Name is London: More love for Theophilus London, including the words “girls write to me like I’m their diary.” [Details]

Mercury Style: The style of John Glenn. Apparently he knew his way around a bow tie. [LIFE]

Natalie Wood is the Original Dog Whisperer

Natalie Woodvia WBE

Meet the Mets: A recap of the Met Costume Gala, including Jay-Z’s impeccable white tux and proto-‘fro. [Esquire]

Protect Your Neck: The chaps at Brooks Brothers (who should know) walk you through the collars of the world. [Of Rogues and Gentlemen]

The Big Brogue: Another day, another handsome brogue. [Free/Man]

Small Pleasures: No matter your situation in life, it would probably be improved by owning a tote bag that says “Misc” on it. [Better Living Through Design]

The Perfect Collar

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Unis unveiled their Fall/Winter sale this week, giving us a crack at some of our favorite shirts in the world for half the regular price—in particular this hickory-striped version of their near-classic Felix shirt.

The elegant-but-casual button-up is an extremely common item—we doubt there’s a menswear shop in the country without a rack of them—but this is our pick for the best. In part it’s down to the uniformly excellent fabrics, but the small rounded collar is the real prize. It’s the perfect stage for the tight, narrow tie knots that pair best with casual shirts, making the shirt a good deal more versatile than the rest of the button-ups in your closet.

And since they know what to do with a good thing, the current sale offers 14 different versions to choose from. Decisions, decisions.

The Patterned Collar

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Sweaters.

You’re going to wear them and, if decorum is any guide, you’re going to have a collar peeking up out of the top. The question is, what are you going to do with it?

The preppy take on the conundrum is pretty simple—bring out a Bengal-striped shirt (or something similar), keep your collar buttoned down and you’re pretty much set—but if you’re feeling adventurous, there’s plenty more fun to be had.

We’d point you to this gentleman, pulled from a recent Reyn Spooner lookbook. If you look closely, you may notice a few inches of intricately patterned tropicalia peeking out through his neckline. It’s a playful take on what might otherwise be a pretty flat look and a good way to make use of what might otherwise be a pretty loud shirt.

That doesn’t mean you should stock up on Hawaiian shirts for winter, necessarily…but if you’ve got any unusually busy shirts in your closet—like any of these, for instance—winter might be a good time to break them out.

Spreading Out

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Boutique dress shirts have run through just about every kind of collar there is—from spread collars to club collars to tuxedo-style flip-point collars—but polos have been lagging pretty far behind.

Luckily, Lacoste is making a go of it. These spread-collared polos came about thanks to a collab with Japan’s United Arrows, who slimmed down the silhouette and curved out the collar for something that looks a lot more current than most of the alligator’s usual gear. (Apparently John Waters was onto something.)

Of course, we’ll give extra points to the first polo that gives us a club collar…but we’re not holding our breath.

Tux Life

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It’s amazing what you can do just by breaking a few rules.

For instance, you never see this kind of point-creased collar outside of a tuxedo…except when someone’s flexing their design muscle.

And if you had to choose a shirt that’s the exact opposite of a tuxedo, it would probably be this kind of geometric almost-flannel.

Just keep it well-starched.

What’s In Store

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Our favorite thing about B store is usually the small, rounded collars that always seem like the seedlings of a full-blown trend—something you might see in the window of Banana Republic ten years from now. But they may have learned a few new tricks.

Their latest line debuted this week at London Fashion Week, and it’s boasting a lot more than collars. From gun-holster-esque suspenders, dark-wash denim shirts and a pleasant reliance on cerulean blue, these Britons are finally coming into their own.

Eight more looks from b store»

It Does a Body Good

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One of our favorites from this summer’s capsule show has popped back onto our radar. Mjolk just gave us a peek at their Autumn/Winter line and, just like at the capsule show, we like what we see. The Sherlock-Holmesy overcoat in the middle has a nice, shoulder-heavy silhouette and we can never see enough flannel. Pay particular attention to the small-collared, high-waisted fellow on the right. It’s a look you’ll likely be seeing more and more of.