A lot of new ideas arrived on the menswear scene this past year, but as we cast our gaze forward to 2012, we only see a few of them lasting through the next twelve months. So to let you know what you can safely count on wearing a year from now, we’ve rated some of the most discussed tricks in the book on a simple AAA-to-D scale (with apologies to Standard & Poors). If you want a credit rating for your double monks, look no further.
Mark McNairy gets a lot of love from the blogging crowd for two reasons: 1) he’s a hell of a cobbler, and 2) despite a touch of the curmudgeon, he’s clearly having as much fun designing as anyone in menswear.
His latest New Amsterdam collection is the perfect example of #2. It’s the first full collection he’s done under the label, and it sees him breaking out aloha patterns, and flower-crittered shorts alongside the usual unstructured jackets and cargo pants.
And yes, a few of his signature red-brick bucks come along for the ride. Shine on, you crotchety diamond…
This Army pant arrived today from Steven Alan and Dockers, with the flat twill you’d expect from Dockers and the clever twists you’d expect from Mr. Alan. But our main interest was that stitched front pocket.
It’s not exactly a cargo pocket, but if you needed somewhere to stash a smartphone, it’s the perfect size. And since it’s clinging to your hips instead of your thighs, the pocket dodges most of the problems we have with the dreaded cargo pant.
It doesn’t hurt that the fabric’s so perfectly weather-beaten. As brute utility goes, it’s pretty handsome stuff.
Ladies and gentlemen, feast your eyes on the first controversy of Fashion Week: the semi-formal cargo pant.
It comes from Ascot Chang’s recent show (courtesy of Sartorially Inclined) and we’re not quite sure how to feel about it.
The cargo pant has attracted a lot of followers lately—not least Mark McNairy and Rogues Gallery—but it’s mostly been in a rugged, day-at-the-lumber-mill mode. Move the same pocket to a more traddish milieu and it seems too daring for its own good. Or maybe just daring enough…
Until recently, cargo pants were universally reviled. But in the past couple years, a handful brave souls have rolled out subdued versions of the mid-90s sartorial nightmare—Steven Alan, Apolis Activism and Rogues Gallery, to name a few. They weren’t exactly the old version; they always stayed slim enough, with small enough pockets, to seem like they’d arrived from an alternate universe where the 90s never happened.
If you were wondering what the cargo-pant resurgence was all about, here’s a helping hand: It should look something like this.
This field pant from Woolrich Woolen Mills packs bonuses like ripstop fabric and a pleasantly colorful plaid lining, but we’re most concerned with those pouches on the front. It won’t feel too different from jean pockets (give or take a snap), but the look is a pretty big leap forward. And because of the central pleat, you should be able to stash a blackberry in them without throwing off the drape. Eddie Vedder would be proud.
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