Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

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The Girl with the Octopus Hair

Ryan Plettvia YHBTI

Good Enough for Ike: Jake Gallagher takes a deep dive into the military origins of the paratrooper pant. [WaxWane]

Great Men of Our Time: Tracy Morgan likes eating at the 56th Street Benihana because it means he can accost random strangers with jokes about sexual performance. Tonight, we will be dining at the 56th Street Benihana. [Grub Street]

The Bow of Victory: Scott Sternberg unveils a lucky Band of Outsiders bow tie in honor of the Oscars—and there’s a good chance Clooney will be wearing one on Sunday. [SlamxHype]

A Private Affair: And finally, with Google’s new privacy policy coming into effect on March 1, here’s how to wipe your history to ensure no one ever discovers you once Googled “nude rue mcclanahan.” [Gizmodo]

Rating The Trends of 2011

Trends of 2011

A lot of new ideas arrived on the menswear scene this past year, but as we cast our gaze forward to 2012, we only see a few of them lasting through the next twelve months. So to let you know what you can safely count on wearing a year from now, we've rated some of the most discussed tricks in the book on a simple AAA-to-D scale (with apologies to Standard & Poors). If you want a credit rating for your double monks, look no further.

See Kempt's rating for five of 2011's most memorable trends»

McNairy Shows His Stripes

McNairy

Mark McNairy gets a lot of love from the blogging crowd for two reasons: 1) he’s a hell of a cobbler, and 2) despite a touch of the curmudgeon, he’s clearly having as much fun designing as anyone in menswear.

His latest New Amsterdam collection is the perfect example of #2. It’s the first full collection he’s done under the label, and it sees him breaking out aloha patterns, and flower-crittered shorts alongside the usual unstructured jackets and cargo pants.

And yes, a few of his signature red-brick bucks come along for the ride. Shine on, you crotchety diamond...

See a few of our favorite looks from the line»

The Big Pocket

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This Army pant arrived today from Steven Alan and Dockers, with the flat twill you’d expect from Dockers and the clever twists you’d expect from Mr. Alan. But our main interest was that stitched front pocket.

It’s not exactly a cargo pocket, but if you needed somewhere to stash a smartphone, it’s the perfect size. And since it’s clinging to your hips instead of your thighs, the pocket dodges most of the problems we have with the dreaded cargo pant.

It doesn’t hurt that the fabric’s so perfectly weather-beaten. As brute utility goes, it's pretty handsome stuff.

The Cargo Pant Dresses Up

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Ladies and gentlemen, feast your eyes on the first controversy of Fashion Week: the semi-formal cargo pant.

It comes from Ascot Chang’s recent show (courtesy of Sartorially Inclined) and we’re not quite sure how to feel about it.

The cargo pant has attracted a lot of followers lately—not least Mark McNairy and Rogues Gallery—but it’s mostly been in a rugged, day-at-the-lumber-mill mode. Move the same pocket to a more traddish milieu and it seems too daring for its own good. Or maybe just daring enough…

Allow us to elaborate»

No Cars Go

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Until recently, cargo pants were universally reviled. But in the past couple years, a handful brave souls have rolled out subdued versions of the mid-90s sartorial nightmare—Steven Alan, Apolis Activism and Rogues Gallery, to name a few. They weren’t exactly the old version; they always stayed slim enough, with small enough pockets, to seem like they’d arrived from an alternate universe where the 90s never happened.

But now…there’s this»

The Cargo Hold

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If you were wondering what the cargo-pant resurgence was all about, here’s a helping hand: It should look something like this.

This field pant from Woolrich Woolen Mills packs bonuses like ripstop fabric and a pleasantly colorful plaid lining, but we’re most concerned with those pouches on the front. It won’t feel too different from jean pockets (give or take a snap), but the look is a pretty big leap forward. And because of the central pleat, you should be able to stash a blackberry in them without throwing off the drape. Eddie Vedder would be proud.

O, to be Pillow’d upon Abbie Cornish’s Ripening Breast

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Cornish Love: The heroine of the new Keats biopic offers some inspiring pics. [Esquire]

In Essence: Lux flannel, a fine gauge turtleneck and highbrow cargo pants all make surprise appearances on Men.Style’s ten essentials.[Men.Style]

Oh, Polo: Polo Rugby takes the customizable polo to the iPhone. Surely, a T-Pain special edition cannot be far behind. [Reuters]

It’s Just…So Beautiful: The L.A. Times talks their way into Brooks Brother’s Long Island City tie factory. Commence drooling. [All the Rage]