Three Things to Inspire Your Weekend
- Kempt Staff
The weekend is looking out for planet Earth.
The weekend is looking out for planet Earth.
It’s market week here in New York—a time for buyers to stock their shops, for editors to take the pulse of the upcoming seasons and for general menswear camaraderie.
And Capsule is usually the main attraction. Right out of the gates we noticed a few hot-button trends: denim bomber jackets, waterproof bomber jackets—just a lot of bombers—and there was an overwhelming number of bucket hats (on shelves and heads).
But our favorite had to be all the handsome new watches...»
As you may (or may not) be aware—we’re in the thick of the menswear market here in NYC, with shows debuting the best of what this coming fall has in store.
We started the week off with Capsule, and while there’s a slew of fantastic happening, there are a few new kids on the block you’ll want to familiarize yourself with before September rolls back around.
The five names you need to know this fall.»
Twice a year, in six cities, menswear designers, buyers, editorialists and enthusiasts flock to the tailored temple of Capsule Show. Yesterday, the leather-bound steamer trunks and garment bags arrived in droves at New York’s South Street, chock-full of new collections for SS14.
Naturally, Team Kempt hit the pavement (or, you know, carpeted warehouse) of Pier 36 in the name of trend spotting and lesson learning. With over 250 brands in attendance, we thought it best to provide a bit of a highlight reel for our loyal followers.
As such, a scientific breakdown of the scene after the jump.»
A lot of bloggerly ink has been spilled in the excitement over J. Press’s neo-trad capsule collection York Street, helmed by the #menswear golden boys at Ovadia & Sons.
It’s the sort of brilliance that could only happen in the Tumblr age—or by being willed into existence by a small cadre of menswear influencers performing ritualistic dances in some clandestine Ivy League clubhouse. (It could’ve been either, really; we’d rather not comment any further.)
And while it seemed that the stuff would only exist on the Internet, today it all became a reality in a real-life brick-and-mortar shop in NYC—and our friends at UrbanDaddy got us a sneak peek at all the cable-knitted wool and tufted-leather handsomeness. If a trip to the city isn’t in the cards anytime soon, not to worry—all the stuff is available online.
A few of our favorites, after the jump.»
Here’s a late-breaking addition to yesterday’s hard-hitting report from the menswear trading floor at Capsule New York.
One of the standouts: Forage Haberdashery, a Philadelphian outfit that’s handcrafting ties, bow ties and handkerchiefs out of deadstock fabrics—everything from denim to linen. Their (hunter-gatherer-themed) spring line is still in the works, but there’s already a good smattering of neckwear in the webshop. Consider the photo above your sneak preview.
Another shot of their booth at Capsule after the jump.»
Every year around this time, the pantheon of fine menswear purveyors sets up shop in a warehouse deep in the hinterlands of Manhattan. And every year around this time, we trek downtown to check it out. Since most brands show clothes that won’t be available for about six months—and because the show is enormous—we decided the best thing to do was break it down, using our patented scientific formula.
Ergo, Capsule New York 2013, by the numbers:»
Overseas Steez: Gant Rugger unveils their latest editorial featuring “Team Americano”—a roving band of menswear bloggers in Europe.
Today in Bizarre Fashion Collaborations: Adam Levine, Nicki Minaj and Kmart are teaming up for a capsule collection. (Now that’s news you cannot use.)
Country Feedback: The playlist from one man’s journey into the heart of karaoke darkness—which, apparently, is Portland, Oregon.
Supply and Demand: GQ gets an exclusive sneak peek at Suitsupply’s fall offerings. Dapper double-breasted tweediness abounds.
Sometimes it’s hard to get excited about stuff you can’t get your hands on for six months to a year—so we usually hit menswear market week with a notebook and a calendar, with the intention of giving you the scoop on our favorite finds once they’re available. But you might have noticed a few behind-the-scenes photos from the trade room floors floating around the Internet this past week. So, even if it’s too early to talk specifics, it's an opportunity to take the pulse of next year’s trends. And here are the four major details we noticed that kept popping up—on recaps, display racks and the #menswear faithful in attendance.
Decoding menswear market week after the jump.»
Ovadia & Sons came onto the scene with quite a splash last year, so they could be forgiven for playing it safe for a season or two. But judging from what we saw at the Capsule show yesterday, they're still swinging for the fences. The fall/winter lookbook will be arriving later this week to prove it, but first, we've got three pitch-perfect details that should convince you to get excited in advance. First, a certain 70-year-old Italian sneaker...
Our favorite touches from Ovadia's fall/winter line»
We can never say no to a linen suit.
This week’s MOTH comes via the capsule show where Moods of Norway’s Paul Gately picked over his company’s wares to assemble a near-impeccable outfit. Keeping the suit unwrinkled is impressive enough, but throwing in sneakers and a white belt (coordinated, naturally) elevates him into the hipster-casual hall of fame.
For bonus points: apparently he wore the same getup to a wedding earlier this summer, which is just about the perfect place for it. Not too shabby.
By the looks of things, the attendees at Paris’s capsule show were mostly the usual well-dressed suspects, but these gents manning the Taylor Supply booth caught our eye as unusually good examples of the button-down at its best. It’s not quite oxford-and-chino territory, but dressing down at a trade show takes chutzpah, never mind out-dressing your own lookbooks. Well played, gents.