It’s market week here in New York—a time for buyers to stock their shops, for editors to take the pulse of the upcoming seasons and for general menswear camaraderie.
And Capsule is usually the main attraction. Right out of the gates we noticed a few hot-button trends: denim bomber jackets, waterproof bomber jackets—just a lot of bombers—and there was an overwhelming number of bucket hats (on shelves and heads).
As you may (or may not) be aware—we’re in the thick of the menswear market here in NYC, with shows debuting the best of what this coming fall has in store.
We started the week off with Capsule, and while there’s a slew of fantastic happening, there are a few new kids on the block you’ll want to familiarize yourself with before September rolls back around.
Twice a year, in six cities, menswear designers, buyers, editorialists and enthusiasts flock to the tailored temple of Capsule Show. Yesterday, the leather-bound steamer trunks and garment bags arrived in droves at New York’s South Street, chock-full of new collections for SS14.
Naturally, Team Kempt hit the pavement (or, you know, carpeted warehouse) of Pier 36 in the name of trend spotting and lesson learning. With over 250 brands in attendance, we thought it best to provide a bit of a highlight reel for our loyal followers.
A lot of bloggerly ink has been spilled in the excitement over J. Press’s neo-trad capsule collection York Street, helmed by the #menswear golden boys at Ovadia & Sons.
It’s the sort of brilliance that could only happen in the Tumblr age—or by being willed into existence by a small cadre of menswear influencers performing ritualistic dances in some clandestine Ivy League clubhouse. (It could’ve been either, really; we’d rather not comment any further.)
And while it seemed that the stuff would only exist on the Internet, today it all became a reality in a real-life brick-and-mortar shop in NYC—and our friends at UrbanDaddy got us a sneak peek at all the cable-knitted wool and tufted-leather handsomeness. If a trip to the city isn’t in the cards anytime soon, not to worry—all the stuff is available online.
Here’s a late-breaking addition to yesterday’s hard-hitting report from the menswear trading floor at Capsule New York.
One of the standouts: Forage Haberdashery, a Philadelphian outfit that’s handcrafting ties, bow ties and handkerchiefs out of deadstock fabrics—everything from denim to linen. Their (hunter-gatherer-themed) spring line is still in the works, but there’s already a good smattering of neckwear in the webshop. Consider the photo above your sneak preview.
Every year around this time, the pantheon of fine menswear purveyors sets up shop in a warehouse deep in the hinterlands of Manhattan. And every year around this time, we trek downtown to check it out. Since most brands show clothes that won’t be available for about six months—and because the show is enormous—we decided the best thing to do was break it down, using our patented scientific formula.