Try and forget that we’re still slogging through the dog days of summer for a moment: it’s time to start thinking about fall.
And this handsome navy blue number from bespokery Bellucci Napoli—that’s half field coat, half blazer and everything you’ll need to get you through the next couple months—just happens to be on sale exclusively through our friends at UrbanDaddy Perks right now. (It’s almost like they planned it that way.)
Twice a year, in six cities, menswear designers, buyers, editorialists and enthusiasts flock to the tailored temple of Capsule Show. Yesterday, the leather-bound steamer trunks and garment bags arrived in droves at New York’s South Street, chock-full of new collections for SS14.
Naturally, Team Kempt hit the pavement (or, you know, carpeted warehouse) of Pier 36 in the name of trend spotting and lesson learning. With over 250 brands in attendance, we thought it best to provide a bit of a highlight reel for our loyal followers.
The international menswear cognoscenti are descending upon Florence as we speak, for the 84th installment of Pitti Immagine Uomo.
And as any well-read menswear enthusiast will tell you, it pays to know what exactly all the fuss is about (especially if you find yourself flipping through Tumblr or in a heated debate with your tailor in the next few days). So with that in mind, we’ve prepared an A-to-Z primer of talking points and trivia that should get you through the semi-annual spectacle of peacockery.
When we took you inside the NYC shop founded by two Internet-famous menswear pals, it was a feast for the eyes—full of hard-to-find Italian blazers and so on. But the stuff was still mostly unattainable for anyone who couldn’t make it to SoHo. And for a couple of guys who made their bones in the online world of menswear, it left a large portion of Tumblr wondering when CSC would embrace their hashtaggy roots. Now, thanks to their triumphant return to the Internet, the #menswear masses can finally get their hands on all that L.B.M., Bastian and in-house suiting they’ve been craving from afar.
The trick to spring-summer dressing is pretty much the opposite of fall-winter: the less layers, the better.
And one way to remove a layer while still pulling off a tailored look is to opt for an unlined blazer—preferably in the airiest weave you can find.
The giveaway of a good unlined blazer is the taped seams (our bearded friend here is doing a good job of demonstrating this, by showing the neon-taped interior of his blazer). Most blazers don’t have finished seams because they’ll never see the light of day once the lining has been sewn in. It’s a neat trick—the taped seams—but mostly a good sign of what you should be looking for in a lightweight blazer.
It’s easily the most stylish trophy in sports: the Masters’ green jacket.
Coincidentally, a green blazer also happens to be the perfect spring accomplice—especially if you can find one in an airier weave, with softer shoulders and in a less glaring tone than the mostly ceremonial number slung over the winner’s shoulder each April. Luckily, with a little digging, we’ve found a surprisingly plentiful spectrum of solid options out there right now, from pale to Rockham green, Gucci to Woolrich, that you can wear today, without having to beat out Tiger in a shootout down the back nine. (Though we’re not saying you couldn’t.) So, without further ado:
Cotton blazer season is upon us and—assuming you’ve already got one in the requisite tan or navy—here’s one worth considering.
Yes. It’s bright red. But one of the more pleasant side effects of the Italian renaissance in menswear is that something like this doesn’t look as out of place as it did three seasons ago. And it’s just landed at Context by way of Band of Outsiders. Here’s what else you need to know.
The Story: Designer Scott Sternberg has been twisting classic Americana into new, brighter, striped iterations for some time now (see: the polo shirt), but this blazer might be his most adventurous move yet.
Who to Channel: Lapo Elkann (but not going double-breasted means you could actually wear this to something other than a yacht christening); Craig Sager on an impossibly good day; an American-Lister in Paris.
When to Wear It: This has got a shelf life of spring to late summer. Wear it loudly and proudly.
Degree of Difficulty: Somewhat high. You might want to review your office dress code before showing up in this. Garden parties, rooftop bars and the like are fair game.
Our friends over at UrbanDaddy bring word that the elusive French menswear label Officine Generale has finally made its way to the states—and more importantly, the Internet. Which is fantastic news for the state of rakishness everywhere.
See, thanks to Tumblr, Instagram and Pitti Uomo, it can sometimes seem like there’s an endless supply of achingly handsome menswear readily available for the taking. But most of the good stuff is actually sitting folded neatly just out of the Internet’s reach in some incredibly well-guarded menswear Eden between Milan and Naples that you’ll never find.
Which is why we were pleasantly surprised to hear tell of Officine Generale making landfall on American soil, by way of SF’s Unionmade. It’s a good chunk of those blazers and poplin shirts that you’ve seen reblogged hundreds of times on Tumblr since the label’s January 2012 inception but have been otherwise untraceable. Meaning it’s not exactly menswear for the faint of wardrobe, but it is a good place to look if you’re feeling like a hickory-stripe blazer with four patch pockets is the sort of direction you’d like to go in this summer.
A lot of bloggerly ink has been spilled in the excitement over J. Press’s neo-trad capsule collection York Street, helmed by the #menswear golden boys at Ovadia & Sons.
It’s the sort of brilliance that could only happen in the Tumblr age—or by being willed into existence by a small cadre of menswear influencers performing ritualistic dances in some clandestine Ivy League clubhouse. (It could’ve been either, really; we’d rather not comment any further.)
And while it seemed that the stuff would only exist on the Internet, today it all became a reality in a real-life brick-and-mortar shop in NYC—and our friends at UrbanDaddy got us a sneak peek at all the cable-knitted wool and tufted-leather handsomeness. If a trip to the city isn’t in the cards anytime soon, not to worry—all the stuff is available online.
Today marks the first day of New York Fashion Week, and the international fashion cognoscenti are descending upon Lincoln Center as we speak.
And as any well-read menswear enthusiast will tell you, it pays to know what exactly all the fuss is about (especially if you find yourself suddenly sharing a barstool with your new Estonian friend or in a heated debate with your tailor). So with that in mind, we’ve prepared an A-to-Z primer of talking points and trivia that should get your through the spectacle that is NYFW.
We’ve just got word that Alabama menswear shop Lyonstate is taking all of the handsomeness they’ve already got on their web shop, putting it on sale, and then slashing off an additional 25% (with the secret code “TAKE25”). Which puts some of these prices at the lowest we’ve seen for stuff from brands like Our Legacy (like this double-breasted blazer), Rachel Comey (like these oxford shoes) or Oliver Spencer (this fisher jacket, for instance) go for. There’s plenty more where that came from, so get after it, gentlemen.