world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

Here’s Your In at Freemans Sporting Club’s Secret Bespokery

  • Kempt Staff


By now you’ve heard of renowned NYC haberdasher Freemans Sporting Club, but you probably haven’t heard of their secret bespoke suiting studio...

Usually only discussed in hushed tones among the well-informed—and well-dressed—the studio is hidden behind a faux bookcase upstairs, somewhere above their eponymous restaurant (sorry, we can’t tell you any more than that). Concealed within: a menswear dream world of bench-made bespokery, cigars, scotch and a master tailor ready to make you a fully canvassed made-to-measure suit.

Luckily, our friends over at UrbanDaddy Perks have your in.

Fall Report: Crowdfunding Menswear

  • Kempt Staff

b52fcb5ecfdd7bfd1da8b9ff6fdfb9f7_largeFall is so close, we can taste it (very spiced-cider-y this year). So, in anticipation of the monumental shift in your wardrobe, leisure activities and general state-of-mind, we’re dedicating this week to preparing you for all of your upcoming autumnal endeavors...

If you haven’t heard, menswear is a boomtown right now, and the real movers and shakers are building their brands from the ground up on sites like Kickstarter and Indiegogo. Herewith, this season’s brightest crowdfunding stars: »

Camille Rowe Is in Sweater Mode

  • Kempt Staff

[caption id="attachment_25489" align="alignleft" width="217"] via Fashion Faves[/caption]

Field Day: Valet catches up with Left Field founder Christian McCann to talk Americana and rare Japanese tweed. [Valet]

Sight for Sore Eyelets: Mr. Mort takes his fine-tuned eye for vintage to the Manhattan Vintage Gentlemen’s Vintage Show. Vintage-fueled synergy ensues. [Mr. Mort]

Strong Bow: An interview with the newest bow tie maestro on the scene, Otis James. [GQ]

Following Suit: Vulture sits down with a bespoke tailor to learn the recipe for a Bond-worthy suit—one with room for motorcycling and ass-kicking while still looking dapper. [Vulture]

Let the Wild Rumpus Never End

  • Najib Benouar

RIP, Maurice: We’ve lost one of the most celebrated authors of our time, Mr. Maurice Sendak—our childhood wouldn’t have been the same without him. The Times looks back on his remarkable legacy. [NYTimes]

Return to Sendak: Another fitting tribute to Mo would be to watch his two-part Colbert Report interview. Things get tense, they huff markers, classic Sendak stuff here. [The Colbert Report]

Bespoke and Mirrors: The Wall Street Journal looks into the troubling overuse of the word “bespoke” and the continuing erosion of the term’s meaning. [WSJ]

Hey, Ma: Just in case you’d like something more to go along with our Mother’s Day card suggestion, this Esquire list of 50 gift ideas ought to work. [Esquire]

Why This Blazer Is a Steal for Two Grand

  • Najib Benouar

That’s right. This beautiful specimen of Italian linen and American handcrafting is going to set you back $2,005—and thanks to our friends at UrbanDaddy Perks, it’s worth every penny. (A price tag well under retail—that is, if this were sold anywhere else.) If you’ve heard of Commonwealth Proper, the bespoke outfit hailing from Philly, you’ll already know what they’re about: the finest materials, dedication to craft and making clothes that aren’t British-leaning, Italian-feigning or anything other than good old American no-nonsense tailoring. And you might also know that they don’t make RTW suiting. Except for this exclusive blazer.

There’s a lot of detail here, so let’s get right into it.»

The Least Important Decision You'll Make With Your Tailor


If you’ve had a custom suit made recently, you may have noticed a mind-boggling number of choices piling up in front of you. Would you like contrast threading? Two or six-millimeter pick-stitching? How do you feel about buttonholes?

The decisions are easier to handle with a trusted tailor, but with Web shops opening up left and right, it can be a genuinely befuddling moment. Unless you’ve spent the last few years studying StyleForum, you might not know the coded sartorial meaning of kissing buttonholes or the dozen other affectations swirling around the edges of a custom suit.

So we’re going to explain it all, here and now. The good news is, it’s simpler than you think.

Allow us to elaborate...»

Going Digital


We were figuring it would take a while for the giants of the old guard to find their way to the new technologies, but we may have underestimated them.

Alan Flusser, for instance, is wasting no time.

The sartorial sage’s latest work is Bespeak, an iPhone app that determines the specs of your perfect suit based on your height, coloring and body shape. The impressive thing is how natural it feels, since so much of his work points men towards exactly this kind of choice. It’s shinier, but the basic wisdom hasn’t changed.

Now we just need to introduce him to these guys.

The Inner Ear


There’s something about the single-minded obsession of an audiophile that commands respect. So while we’re not personally ready to drop more than a thousand dollars on the perfect earbud, we have to admit that these are pretty awesome.

CrunchGear dug deep into the world of high-end earbuds—the kind of stuff discerning musicians wear on-stage to check the mix—and came away with three fantastic pairs of in-ear devices, each decked out with more audio-tweaking gadgetry than we can possibly hope to understand. This is what the very high-end looks like.

Here’s one bit we did follow: the process of picking one up starts with the artisans making a mold of your ear. The resulting device is perfectly fitted to your body, and it won’t fit anyone else quite as well…kind of like those suits we’re always gushing about. And about as expensive.

The Tale of the Tape


We’re always glad to see signs of men getting a little more educated about their clothes, so this Observer piece was what we call in the business “a very good sign.”

Here’s the gist: New York tailors are starting to get customers who aren’t afraid to get into gritty technical details like ankle measurements, tapering and shoulder pitch. In short, they know what they’re doing.

Here’s why»

Bathing Suits, Shoes, and Thrift


On the Beach: Jezebel’s post on the tyranny of unsupportive bathing suits may have backfired. [Jezebel]

The Overclass: It’s hard to improve on the headline: “Russian Billionaires Learn to Embrace Thrift.” [Luxist]

Check’s in the Mail: Gitman Brothers Vintage gets a bit more love. Go Steelers? [Blackbird]

Footprints: Bespoke cobbling goes online. This could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship… [Material Interest]

A Well-Sized Hanger


The expansion of bespokery is old news by now, but it’s reaching to areas that never occurred to us. For instance, that maple wand in your closet could probably stand to be a bit more customized.

The Hanger Project is making a play at setting up the luxury wooden hanger market by offering wooden suit hangers made to measure. It’s a familiar idea to anyone versed in the art of the shoe tree, but it’s still a welcome addition to our sartorial arsenal.

They’re a bit expensive, but so was your suit, and there’s no point in letting it spend its days on shoulders that are narrower than yours.