May 20, 2013 world of men's style / fashion / grooming RSS
“americana”
03/27/13
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What's What

What Your #Menswear Baseball Cap Says About You

Caps

There are plenty of perfectly good reasons to wear a baseball cap.

Driving a convertible. Watching a ball game. Premature balding.

But we’ve been noticing a sharp rise in guys wearing more #menswear-y versions—without a hint of support for a sports team—even more so, with the recent rise in popularity of the five-panel cap and floral prints. And it got us thinking about what it all means. So we’ve gone ahead and taken stock of all the nonstandard baseball caps out there to give you a better idea of what your choice in billed topper is projecting to the world.

So, without further ado: what your #menswear baseball cap says about you, according to Kempt.»
 

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03/19/13
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LinkOut

Heritage Lost, Google’s Hit List and Berlin’s Handsome Subway Stations

Berlin

Strong Willis: A Continuous Lean explores the rise and fall (and subsequent re-rise and re-fall) of legendary American expedition outfitters Willis & Geiger.

Google Melee: In the wake of Google’s spring cleaning of five products—most notably, Google Reader—Wired names the next five Google products on the chopping block.

Underground Snapper: Take a photographic safari through all 173 of Berlin’s U-Bahn stations, courtesy of Kate Seabrook.

The Power of Doves: The Atlantic asks the hard questions on why there aren’t any women magicians to speak of.

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02/13/13
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LinkOut

Brazilian Merrymaking, Fashion’s Astrologer and Waka Flocka Flame’s Valentine’s Playlist

Rio

Rio’s Grand: The Atlantic shares some spectacular photos from the Carnival festivities in Rio de Janeiro.

Haute Svengali: The Cut tries to figure out how Susan Miller became the de facto astrologer to the fashion elite.

The Flame Rekindles: The best part of GQ’s Valentine’s Day guide has to be the romantic playlist from Waka Flocka Flame.

Denim Jumpsuits: Put This On embarks on a photo safari through the Americana jungle/annual vintage menswear show, Inspiration LA.

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02/12/13
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Labeled

Field Report: Steven Alan F/W 2013 Presentation

Steven Alan

NYFW: still happening. And while none of this stuff will be available for a good seven months—or until the weather’s gone from cold to warm to cold again—we consider it of paramount importance that we keep you informed (and show you how stylish future-you could be). Hence, a series of quick-and-dirty posts on as many of the shows as we can get to.

Up next: Steven Alan.

The Background: Mr. Alan digs deeper into Americana subcultures with a collection inspired by ’60s post-bop jazz. (Back when jazz was still subversive and cool.)

The Formula:
Formula

Degree of Difficulty: Steven Alan makes the opposite of difficult clothing.

The Showstopper: The corduroy suit.

More looks after the jump.»
 

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12/20/12
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Labeled

Todd Snyder Joins the Internet

We’ve been tracking the meteoric rise of Todd Snyder and his eponymous menswear label for the past year and change now. (The guy can do no wrong.)

So we’re excited to report he’s just opened up shop on the Internet.

If you’re not familiar with his stuff, just imagine the sort of classic well-made American aesthetic someone who cut their teeth at the legendary tailoring shop Badowers, interned at Ralph Lauren and finally rose to the top ranks at J.Crew would turn out. Or, you know, now you can just visit his webshop to take a look.

Consider this a Christmas gift to yourself.

A few of our favorites, after the jump.»
 

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11/15/12
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Labeled

Ralph Lauren Goes Vintage

Ralph Lauren is one of Americana’s most venerable institutions. He’s managed to clothe an entire nation—from the cable-knitted Northeast to the denim-on-denim’d Southwest.

And as a testament to that legacy, the brand is launching the webshop RL Vintage today. After a small army of vintage clothing enthusiasts/historians was assembled, the team set out, rummaging through the finer flea markets and antique shops to put together a veritable museum of Polo-centric Americana—well, a museum that you can actually buy things from. For the men’s offerings, you can expect a lot of suede—and even some fringe—but something we’re really looking forward to is the “Bring It Back” program that lets Polo fanatics dig through the archives and vote on pieces they’d like to see reissued. Whatever gets the most votes will actually go into production as a limited-run throwback. Currently on deck is the Polo Bear sweater, beloved by grandmothers, rappers and menswear bloggers alike.

Take a closer look at what’s in store at RL Vintage, after the jump.»
 

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11/13/12
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Storefront

Golf and Americana, Together at Last

Our love for Americana is well documented, and we’ve already gushed about the incomparable charms of fall golf…

So naturally, we were pleased to learn of a Dallas-based shop combining the two, by the name of Pebble + Pine. It’s one of those ideas that feels novel, but at the same time surprising that it hadn’t been thought of before (the brick-and-mortar shop has been peddling American-made golf paraphernalia to Dallas locals for a few weeks now, but they’ve just launched e-commerce this week).

Think of it as the latest addition to the spate of heritage all-American menswear shops we’ve been seeing, like Chicago’s Haberdash or a permanent version of New York’s Pop Up Flea—but with golf balls. Here, the fleece vests are from Woolrich, the books were written by Ben Hogan and you can even pick up an exclusive cologne scented like moonshine—should your regular 19th hole not provide you with enough.

The heritage ping-pong emporium cannot be far behind.

More photos of Pebble + Pine’s Dallas shop, after the jump.»
 

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11/12/12
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LinkOut

Camille Rowe Is in Sweater Mode

Field Day: Valet catches up with Left Field founder Christian McCann to talk Americana and rare Japanese tweed. [Valet]

Sight for Sore Eyelets: Mr. Mort takes his fine-tuned eye for vintage to the Manhattan Vintage Gentlemen’s Vintage Show. Vintage-fueled synergy ensues. [Mr. Mort]

Strong Bow: An interview with the newest bow tie maestro on the scene, Otis James. [GQ]

Following Suit: Vulture sits down with a bespoke tailor to learn the recipe for a Bond-worthy suit—one with room for motorcycling and ass-kicking while still looking dapper. [Vulture]

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10/29/12
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Object

The Stat Sheet: Yuketen Wingtip Roper Boots

We’re still trying to figure out what these boots might say about you.

But if you’re in the market for some handsome shell cordovan leather wingtip cowboy boots, look no further than these Wingtip Ropers from Yuketen that have recently arrived at Context Clothing. Here’s what else you should know about them:

The Story: Yuki Matsuda has been heading up the Japanese-led Americana revival for nearly three decades, while making some incredible American-made shoes along the way. But for these boots, he’s leaned on the ranchero expertise of Mexico—where they’ve been meticulously crafted from Horween shell cordovan #8 in a limited run.

Who to Channel: Whatever a dandified British-Texan oil baron rancher might look like—perhaps a mashup of Prince Charles and George W. Bush.

Or Spend Your $1,114 On: 12.9 barrels of crude oil, an old pickup truck or a shell cordovan leather wallet to hold your remaining $1,000 in.

Degree of Difficulty: High to impossibly high.

Our best estimation of the look you’re going for, after the jump.»
 

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10/04/12
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What's What

If These Boots Could Talk

Fall is a special season for many reasons.

For some, it’s football season. To others: sausage season (or motherfucking decorative gourd season).

But here on Kempt: it’s boots season. And that means choices.

With a vast sea of options out there—hiking, Chelsea, desert, cowboy, et cetera—it begs the question: what is your choice in fall footwear saying about you? So we graciously came up with this handy guide:

Understanding what your boots are saying about you, courtesy of Kempt.»
 

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09/20/12
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Labeled

On the Flip Side

This shirt may be the only camouflage—or leopard print—button-down you’ll ever need to own.

The folks at Gitman Vintage have made a name for themselves trading on classic Americana—after reviving their Pennsylvania factory a few years back—but here’s a bit of a departure from their typically trad oxford cloth and archival madras. (We’ll assume the Swedes over at Très Bien Shop can be a persuasive bunch.) If you were considering trying out either look, this should be your best bet.

It’s not often you can kill two birds with one shirt.

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07/19/12
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Object

The T-Shirt Goes Americana

There was no greater boon to the Americana-enamored blogosphere than when Life magazine digitized their decades’ worth of photo archives for all to scour.

Suddenly, family fishing trips on the Cape, grizzled coal miners in Virginia and fedora’d men flying for business were all there for the taking/uploading/menswear-nostalgia-evoking. And now, you can wear them on your chest—thanks to a T-shirt company by the name of Altru, which has officially licensed some iconic archival photos. The first batch features dogs, motorcycles and JFK. Which is about as Americana as it gets.

For when your Carhartt overalls are in the wash.

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03/30/12
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This Sporting Life

A Summer Festival of Daredeviling

Evel Knievel Games

We strive to be gentlemen of sophistication. Our tastes are elevated; our manners, refined.

But we must admit, there’s nothing quite like drinking a beer outside on a hot summer day while you watch cars jump over things.

So when we heard about Evel Knievel Days, we were understandably intrigued…

A loving investigation into one of the greatest American traditions»
 

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11/15/11
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The Biz

The Persistence of American Style

Forget trend reports. As soon as the weather gets bad, the Red Wings come out.

This particular pic comes from Mohawk General Store’s latest lookbook, but don’t be surprised if it looks a little familiar. There’s the Gitman shirt (with checks and a button-down collar, of course), the patch-pocket blazer and square-end ties—all hallmarks of most bloggy men’s wardrobes as early as 2009. We can’t see his shoes, but we’re guessing they’re some variety of triple-stitched boot…

It’s an easy reminder: when the temperature drops, Americana always seems to come back into style.

Allow us to elaborate»
 

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11/02/11
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Filmic

Ride Like the Wind

Scott Toepfer

Photographer Scott Toepfer has been exploring the Western U.S. by motorcycle for the past few years, but he’s finally finished his grand diesel-smelling opus. It’s called It’s Better in the Wind, and it’s a solid 13 minutes of brilliant biker photography, along with some wheezing harmonica and earnest narration. Mountains! Moto jackets! America!

Watch it after the jump…»
 

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08/19/11
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Dept. of Corrections

The Junkyard Watch

Left Field

There’s a lot to like about Left Field—they make a pretty good polo shirt, for instance—but we can all agree this gentleman (from their latest lookbook) would look a lot better if he were in some sort of chalet/yacht setting, instead of glowering into the middle distance while clutching a firearm. But someone had to guard the junkyard…

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08/05/11
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Object

True Grit

Grit

A newfound appreciation of flags has been one of the better legacies of the Americana movement. Now if they just didn’t have those pesky countries attached…

Standard Grit’s flags are a bit different—celebrating sentiments like “Whole Hog,” “Under Dog” or (of course) “Grit.” A few hundred bucks buys you two feet of immaculately weathered cotton with the inspiring words stitched onto the front, made for framing or draping over the back of a couch. And if you’ve got a couple rivets handy, they shouldn’t be too hard to hoist up a flagpole.

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07/05/11
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True Colors

Heritage

While you were celebrating America, England’s Heritage Research was showing off a new batch of 50s-inspired Americana goods. Our favorite so far: the red, white, and blue flannel. We suppose, technically, it could match with a Union Jack.

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04/13/11
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Object

Billy’s Ties

billyreidfloraltie_crop.jpg

When it rains patterned ties, it pours patterned ties.

On the heels of yesterday’s Americana-soaked tie, Billy Reid has let loose a new line of spring ties, including this dense floral-patterned one, which offers a more colorful silk variation on the same down-home idea. Either one would look pretty good under any soft-shouldered shackets you might have lying around, or tucked between the buttons of a dress shirt.

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04/12/11
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Object

The Ploughman’s Tie

generalknot_crop.jpg

General Knot & Co. has been kicking around the blogodome quite a bit in the past few months—boasting the usual chambray and gingham varieties—but we’ve finally found one that couldn’t be made by anyone else.

If it looks like Midwestern tableware, there’s a reason. It’s an Eisenhower-era, archival folk-art print—along the lines of your Gitman Vintage shirts or a Levi’s throwback—only now it’s found its way onto your tie rack.

And while it’s not exactly what a Quaker potato farmer would have worn to a Sunday gathering in 1905, we have to think it’s pretty close.

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03/11/11
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The Return of Sam and Jeff

s&h11_crop.jpg

Over the past few seasons, Shipley & Halmos has been morphing into a solid source for basics, and they may have sealed the deal with their most recent fall/winter line.

Exhibit A is this toggle coat: not showy, but as good a specimen of classic American outerwear as you’re likely to find. They’ve also rescued some sweaters from their first season and come up with a sharp graphic print for the lining of their blazers. It’s the kind of self-mythologizing you rarely see on brands only four years into their tenure—but we’d say they’ve earned it.

See a few more looks»

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11/16/10
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The Biz

But Will it Play in Alabama

billyreid3_crop.jpgvia

Billy Reid is having a good year.

After winning GQ’s nod for best menswear designer in America—and putting together a handsome Levi’s collab in the bargain—last night saw him named as the winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, cementing his status as the most exciting thing happening in menswear.

Naturally, we’ve got a few ideas as to why…

Allow us to elaborate»

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10/06/10
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Storefront

The Return of Specklewear

specklewear_crop.jpg

New York’s Fjallraven shop just completed a transformation into a full-on camping store, and amid the sardine tins, scout harmonicas and reindeer pelts, we stumbled onto a surprising slice of Americana. Ladies and Gentlemen, feast your eyes on the wonder that is Specklewear.

It’s been a U.S. camping staple since the 1880s—the kind of thing you find in your grandfather’s attic—but finding it in a Swedish outerwear shop in Soho is a sign of the times if we ever heard one. Score one more for Americana.

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08/24/10
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Labeled

Goodbye, Daiki

wwmtrenchcoat_crop.jpg

Daiki Suzuki’s final collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills just arrived at Blackbird, and it’s a pretty spectacular swan song . The watchwords for the season was supposed to be “hunting noir”—which might sound familiar—but the real spectacle is watching one of the key figures of the Americana revival stage one last reinvention.

All of which is to say, those Navajo prints were only the beginning. All the now-standard flannels and plaids get a little extra push into the costumey, and what once seemed like the most conservative trend in fashion enters its baroque period. It’s not particularly wearable, but if you ever need to solve a series of mysterious kidnappings in Portland, ME, you know what to wear.

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07/28/10
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Object

Climbing Hills

OrvisxTaylorSupply.jpg

Orvis is upping the Americana ante this Fall with its new capsule collection, US Patent. The venerable outfitter for the casually rugged outdoorsman is throwing its hat into the heritage ring with a curation of 50 or so pieces—ranging from flight jackets, to fishing rods, to cowboy hats. The full line will be available come mid-August, but this handsome Hill Climber Jacket has already hit the market as a collab with the newly minted Brooklyn-based operation, Taylor Supply. It’s got the transition-between-seasons functionality of waxwear, but with unique enough details—a shawl collar and button-up front—to not look too Barbour-y (read, British). We’re searching for our hunting cap and briarwood pipe as we speak.

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Style: some people have it, and some neighborhoods really have it. To show you what we mean, we’ve partnered with Cadillac to present Style Shifters—a five-part, in-depth look at what the hippest gents in some of the country’s coolest neighborhoods are wearing now. Our intrepid photographers have roamed the streets in search of the most stylish guys around. Herewith, a few photos of what they found...

New York

Brooklyn

Williamsburg

Williamsburg, Brooklyn is home to some of the country’s best bars, coolest restaurants and, of course, some of the best menswear shops in the world. Naturally, you’ll find more than a few stylish individuals perched outside those locations (and no, not all of them are Billyburg hipsters). See what we mean below...

On The Streets: Brooklyn

  • Carl Mateo, 32 Brand Ambassador for Silly Hats Company Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn
    What We Like Sed tempor tincidunt augue, nec faucibus mi mattis vitae. Donec urna massa, molestie eget facilisis nec, pellentesque a enim.

    Vivamus ipsum est, feugiat vitae commodo et, dignissim at orci. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Aliquam iaculis faucibus urna, sit amet pellentesque.
  • Michael Benin, 28 Frontend Developer of UrbanDaddy Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn
    What We Like Vivamus ipsum est, feugiat vitae commodo et, dignissim at orci. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Aliquam iaculis faucibus urna, sit amet pellentesque.

    Sed tempor tincidunt augue, nec faucibus mi mattis vitae. Donec urna massa, molestie eget facilisis nec, pellentesque a enim.
  • Michael Benin, 28 Frontend Developer of UrbanDaddy Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn
    What We Like Vivamus ipsum est, feugiat vitae commodo et, dignissim at orci. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Aliquam iaculis faucibus urna, sit amet pellentesque.

    Sed tempor tincidunt augue, nec faucibus mi mattis vitae. Donec urna massa, molestie eget facilisis nec, pellentesque a enim.
  • Michael Benin, 28 Frontend Developer of UrbanDaddy Lives: Greenpoint, Brooklyn
    What We Like Vivamus ipsum est, feugiat vitae commodo et, dignissim at orci. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Aliquam iaculis faucibus urna, sit amet pellentesque.

    Sed tempor tincidunt augue, nec faucibus mi mattis vitae. Donec urna massa, molestie eget facilisis nec, pellentesque a enim.
California

San Francisco

Mission District
May 1

Oh, and up next: we take a peak at another handsome-as-hell neighborhood, the Mission District in San Francisco. Stay tuned...

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Style Shifters
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