Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

An UrbanDaddy Publication

Duck Head Is Back, with Your Summer Chinos

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It’s safe to say that the heritage menswear revival is alive and well in the South.

Earlier this year it was the return of Louisiana’s Haspel, and now Garden & Gun brings word that Civil War–era Southern brand Duck Head has relaunched their line of sturdy chinos and polos just in time for the dog days of summer.

As far as heritage brands go, all of the bona fides are there: founded in Tennessee by two brothers after their tour with the Confederate Army; started with chinos made of leftover duck canvas from war tents; supplied the US military with overalls during WWII; spawned a chino craze among Southern fraternity prepsters in the 1980s; everything went downhill when they moved production overseas... And now they’re back—with a couple of Ralph Lauren vets at the helm. Most importantly: so is their iconic label, stitched with a mallard’s head.

Get a closer look at our favorites from the new collection, after the jump.»

The Future of Americana: Dyer & Jenkins

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In an ideal world, every item in your closet would be made in America—save for a few Neapolitan or British things—but that’s probably not the case... yet.

Enter Dyer & Jenkins, a new upstart out of Los Angeles whose webshop just went live today stocked with incredibly well-priced American-made selvage denim jeans, washed indigo sweatshirts and tees. That’s just for starters, because their new “lean manufacturing” process—born from their Kickstarter roots—will continue to introduce new items every time there’s enough demand to kick a new small batch into production. The latest limited run: a hefty sweatshirt constructed from recycled denim. But there’s plenty more where that came from.

Take a look at some of our favorites from the inaugural run, after the jump.»

Discovering George’s Handmade Boots

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Thanks to the all-knowing Internet powers that be at Reddit, we discovered this curious video of a small bootmaker in Oregon.

George’s Handmade Boots is a one-man operation that’s been quietly turning out handsome custom footwear out of eastern Oregon for the better part of the past century, and now the world is finally getting a look into his shop. As you can imagine, it’s as Americana as it gets—he still operates the way he did back then: phone orders and a mail catalog that you can request by, you guessed it, phone. In the recent flurry of interest, his granddaughter set up the Facebook page and there are talks of an e-commerce site—as well as George’s talk of finding someone new to take over his operation in the next few years. So, if you’ve ever romanced the idea of heading to the Western frontier to make your bones in the craft of bootmaking—or the idea of owning a really handsome pair of handmade boots—now’s your chance.

Meet George, take a look around his shop and start dreaming...»

What Your #Menswear Baseball Cap Says About You

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There are plenty of perfectly good reasons to wear a baseball cap.

Driving a convertible. Watching a ball game. Premature balding.

But we’ve been noticing a sharp rise in guys wearing more #menswear-y versions—without a hint of support for a sports team—even more so, with the recent rise in popularity of the five-panel cap and floral prints. And it got us thinking about what it all means. So we’ve gone ahead and taken stock of all the nonstandard baseball caps out there to give you a better idea of what your choice in billed topper is projecting to the world.

So, without further ado: what your #menswear baseball cap says about you, according to Kempt.»

Heritage Lost, Google’s Hit List and Berlin’s Handsome Subway Stations

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Strong Willis: A Continuous Lean explores the rise and fall (and subsequent re-rise and re-fall) of legendary American expedition outfitters Willis & Geiger.

Google Melee: In the wake of Google’s spring cleaning of five products—most notably, Google Reader—Wired names the next five Google products on the chopping block.

Underground Snapper: Take a photographic safari through all 173 of Berlin’s U-Bahn stations, courtesy of Kate Seabrook.

The Power of Doves: The Atlantic asks the hard questions on why there aren’t any women magicians to speak of.

Brazilian Merrymaking, Fashion’s Astrologer and Waka Flocka Flame’s Valentine’s Playlist

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Rio’s Grand: The Atlantic shares some spectacular photos from the Carnival festivities in Rio de Janeiro.

Haute Svengali: The Cut tries to figure out how Susan Miller became the de facto astrologer to the fashion elite.

The Flame Rekindles: The best part of GQ’s Valentine’s Day guide has to be the romantic playlist from Waka Flocka Flame.

Denim Jumpsuits: Put This On embarks on a photo safari through the Americana jungle/annual vintage menswear show, Inspiration LA.

Field Report: Steven Alan F/W 2013 Presentation

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NYFW: still happening. And while none of this stuff will be available for a good seven months—or until the weather’s gone from cold to warm to cold again—we consider it of paramount importance that we keep you informed (and show you how stylish future-you could be). Hence, a series of quick-and-dirty posts on as many of the shows as we can get to.

Up next: Steven Alan.

The Background: Mr. Alan digs deeper into Americana subcultures with a collection inspired by ’60s post-bop jazz. (Back when jazz was still subversive and cool.)

The Formula: Formula

Degree of Difficulty: Steven Alan makes the opposite of difficult clothing.

The Showstopper: The corduroy suit.

More looks after the jump.»

Todd Snyder Joins the Internet

We’ve been tracking the meteoric rise of Todd Snyder and his eponymous menswear label for the past year and change now. (The guy can do no wrong.)

So we’re excited to report he’s just opened up shop on the Internet.

If you’re not familiar with his stuff, just imagine the sort of classic well-made American aesthetic someone who cut their teeth at the legendary tailoring shop Badowers, interned at Ralph Lauren and finally rose to the top ranks at J.Crew would turn out. Or, you know, now you can just visit his webshop to take a look.

Consider this a Christmas gift to yourself.

A few of our favorites, after the jump.»