February 9, 2012 world of men's style / fashion / grooming RSS
“americana”
11/15/11
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The Biz

The Persistence of American Style

Forget trend reports. As soon as the weather gets bad, the Red Wings come out.

This particular pic comes from Mohawk General Store’s latest lookbook, but don’t be surprised if it looks a little familiar. There’s the Gitman shirt (with checks and a button-down collar, of course), the patch-pocket blazer and square-end ties—all hallmarks of most bloggy men’s wardrobes as early as 2009. We can’t see his shoes, but we’re guessing they’re some variety of triple-stitched boot…

It’s an easy reminder: when the temperature drops, Americana always seems to come back into style.

Allow us to elaborate»
 

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11/02/11
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Filmic

Ride Like the Wind

Scott Toepfer

Photographer Scott Toepfer has been exploring the Western U.S. by motorcycle for the past few years, but he’s finally finished his grand diesel-smelling opus. It’s called It’s Better in the Wind, and it’s a solid 13 minutes of brilliant biker photography, along with some wheezing harmonica and earnest narration. Mountains! Moto jackets! America!

Watch it after the jump…»
 

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08/19/11
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Dept. of Corrections

The Junkyard Watch

Left Field

There’s a lot to like about Left Field—they make a pretty good polo shirt, for instance—but we can all agree this gentleman (from their latest lookbook) would look a lot better if he were in some sort of chalet/yacht setting, instead of glowering into the middle distance while clutching a firearm. But someone had to guard the junkyard…

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08/05/11
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Object

True Grit

Grit

A newfound appreciation of flags has been one of the better legacies of the Americana movement. Now if they just didn’t have those pesky countries attached…

Standard Grit’s flags are a bit different—celebrating sentiments like “Whole Hog,” “Under Dog” or (of course) “Grit.” A few hundred bucks buys you two feet of immaculately weathered cotton with the inspiring words stitched onto the front, made for framing or draping over the back of a couch. And if you’ve got a couple rivets handy, they shouldn’t be too hard to hoist up a flagpole.

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07/05/11
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Labeled

True Colors

Heritage

While you were celebrating America, England’s Heritage Research was showing off a new batch of 50s-inspired Americana goods. Our favorite so far: the red, white, and blue flannel. We suppose, technically, it could match with a Union Jack.

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04/13/11
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Object

Billy’s Ties

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When it rains patterned ties, it pours patterned ties.

On the heels of yesterday’s Americana-soaked tie, Billy Reid has let loose a new line of spring ties, including this dense floral-patterned one, which offers a more colorful silk variation on the same down-home idea. Either one would look pretty good under any soft-shouldered shackets you might have lying around, or tucked between the buttons of a dress shirt.

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04/12/11
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Object

The Ploughman’s Tie

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General Knot & Co. has been kicking around the blogodome quite a bit in the past few months—boasting the usual chambray and gingham varieties—but we’ve finally found one that couldn’t be made by anyone else.

If it looks like Midwestern tableware, there’s a reason. It’s an Eisenhower-era, archival folk-art print—along the lines of your Gitman Vintage shirts or a Levi’s throwback—only now it’s found its way onto your tie rack.

And while it’s not exactly what a Quaker potato farmer would have worn to a Sunday gathering in 1905, we have to think it’s pretty close.

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03/11/11
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Labeled

The Return of Sam and Jeff

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Over the past few seasons, Shipley & Halmos has been morphing into a solid source for basics, and they may have sealed the deal with their most recent fall/winter line.

Exhibit A is this toggle coat: not showy, but as good a specimen of classic American outerwear as you’re likely to find. They’ve also rescued some sweaters from their first season and come up with a sharp graphic print for the lining of their blazers. It’s the kind of self-mythologizing you rarely see on brands only four years into their tenure—but we’d say they’ve earned it.

See a few more looks»

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11/16/10
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The Biz

But Will it Play in Alabama

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Billy Reid is having a good year.

After winning GQ’s nod for best menswear designer in America—and putting together a handsome Levi’s collab in the bargain—last night saw him named as the winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, cementing his status as the most exciting thing happening in menswear.

Naturally, we’ve got a few ideas as to why…

Allow us to elaborate»

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10/06/10
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Storefront

The Return of Specklewear

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New York’s Fjallraven shop just completed a transformation into a full-on camping store, and amid the sardine tins, scout harmonicas and reindeer pelts, we stumbled onto a surprising slice of Americana. Ladies and Gentlemen, feast your eyes on the wonder that is Specklewear.

It’s been a U.S. camping staple since the 1880s—the kind of thing you find in your grandfather’s attic—but finding it in a Swedish outerwear shop in Soho is a sign of the times if we ever heard one. Score one more for Americana.

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08/24/10
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Labeled

Goodbye, Daiki

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Daiki Suzuki’s final collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills just arrived at Blackbird, and it’s a pretty spectacular swan song . The watchwords for the season was supposed to be “hunting noir”—which might sound familiar—but the real spectacle is watching one of the key figures of the Americana revival stage one last reinvention.

All of which is to say, those Navajo prints were only the beginning. All the now-standard flannels and plaids get a little extra push into the costumey, and what once seemed like the most conservative trend in fashion enters its baroque period. It’s not particularly wearable, but if you ever need to solve a series of mysterious kidnappings in Portland, ME, you know what to wear.

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07/28/10
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Object

Climbing Hills

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Orvis is upping the Americana ante this Fall with its new capsule collection, US Patent. The venerable outfitter for the casually rugged outdoorsman is throwing its hat into the heritage ring with a curation of 50 or so pieces—ranging from flight jackets, to fishing rods, to cowboy hats. The full line will be available come mid-August, but this handsome Hill Climber Jacket has already hit the market as a collab with the newly minted Brooklyn-based operation, Taylor Supply. It’s got the transition-between-seasons functionality of waxwear, but with unique enough details—a shawl collar and button-up front—to not look too Barbour-y (read, British). We’re searching for our hunting cap and briarwood pipe as we speak.

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07/23/10
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Object

Freedom Cubes

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This Americana-soaked ice bucket comes by way of our favorite Etsy shop of the day. Even having an ice bucket is pretty anachronistic in the age of the hi-tech fridge, but one with wood casing and a breathlessly sincere bald eagle on the front is as close to Eisenhower-era chic as we’re likely to come.

Our only regret is not finding it in time for the fourth of July…but there’s always Labor Day.

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06/16/10
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Bad Idea/Good Idea

Don’t Be a Menace

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We’re not sure what’s more troubling, that the chaps at Hickorees Hard Goods are selling homemade slingshots (as per Pursuit Aesthetic and UD) or that they’ve already sold out.

The next time you’re passing through Williamsburg, you may want to bring a helmet.

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05/24/10
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LinkOut

Iza Olak is a Child of Nature

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A Roll in the Grass: The Danes put together a pretty good editorial when they want to. [Fashion Gone Rogue]

Frozen Yogurt: A Google pro promises Android will “blow your mind” in the next six months. Presumably with a vocoder solo. [Gizmodo]

Taggers: A rundown on some of Americana’s more interesting garment tags. [Archival Clothing]

Brooklyn’s the Borough: For its 127th birthday, all the pictures of the Brooklyn Bridge you will ever desire. [Secret Forts]

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04/27/10
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Object

Flag Waving

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There’s a long, proud history of wearing the American Flag as a scarf. We’re thinking of Cat Power in particular.

This garbstore version is smart enough to switch the design around a little—we always preferred the stars to the strips anyway—but the essence is still a rough cotton item that wouldn’t look too out of place on Captain America. (Peter Fonda, not Steve Rogers.) It’s a pretty cheeky take on Americana, but nobody ever made an impression by beating around the bush.

And yes, it’s made in Japan.

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03/05/10
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LinkOut

Daisy Lowe is a Premiere All Her Own

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Monogramoflage Part Two: Daisy Lowe shows off the latest Murakami/Vuitton collaboration. [Catwalk Queen]

A Sewing Machine is a Sewing Machine: Looking past the “Made in U.S.A.” label. [Young Man/Old Man]

By the Numbers: The film industry gets analyzed, mathematized and broken down into a visually dazzling infographic. [/Film]

Just Because it’s Friday: Here’s the craziest 80s movie we’ve ever heard of. Anyone have a VHS player handy? [Everything Is Terrible]

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02/25/10
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Dept. of Corrections

What’s in a Name?

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The Awl’s Cord Jefferson launched a few shots against preppidom yesterday, singling out J.Crew’s “Plantation madras” button-down and a pair of Ralph Lauren pants in “Old Money Green” as perhaps not the best naming choices in the world.

It should definitely be a wakeup call to a few marketing departments—even if we’d vouch for Mr. William’s niceness, in both the traditional and early 90s hip hop sense of the word—but there’s something else at work here, and it’s worth a little digging to find it.

Allow us to elaborate»

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02/04/10
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Dept. of Corrections

Life after Americana

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An insider’s tip: when Christian Audigier starts copying your style, things may have gotten out of hand. Add in a winking style guide or two, and the recent renaissance of heritage brands and workwear starts to look dangerously close to played out–at least from a trendwatcher’s perspective.

The only problem is that workwear was always more of a movement than a trend. Which raises the question of what’s left after the trend pieces dry up.

Naturally, we’ve got a few ideas»

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12/14/09
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LinkOut

Lara Stone Gets into the Handbag Business

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Heart of Stone: To the applause of the masses, Lara Stone takes over for Madonna as the scantily clad figure in well-lit print ads. [Luxist]

So Hot Right Now: The monocle trend—also known as Klink-chic—is apparently sweeping the west coast. Maybe driven by the magazine? [All the Rage]

The Doorman Will Thank You: Emily Post advises on matters of holiday tipping. [Lifehacker]

Two States: The designer of the 50 state American flag has just passed away. Perhaps an Americana tribute is in order? [Unbeige]

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12/09/09
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Good Idea

Suspended

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This one has been building steam for a while (exhibits A and B), so we’re hesitant to call it a trend, so instead we’ll put it this way: You should think about wearing suspenders.

No, seriously.

Slip a pair on next time you doff a jacket and you might be shocked to find your pants draping a whole lot better, and avoiding the cinch-and-billow look that plagues the belted trouser. You can take off the jacket for a more adventurous look—joining the trads, the Americanists and the tie revivalists all at once—or keep it on and enjoy the benefits in relative secrecy.

It can still be hard to find a good pair, but we recommend these from Alexander Olch, which you might have seen at a shop or two recently, or trying the vintage route. One advantage of picking up the trend on the early side: you’ll have plenty to choose from.

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11/25/09
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Dept. of Corrections

Team America

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Who’d have thought a few tables of gear would cause so much ruckus?

Last weekend’s Pop-Up Flea (co-helmed by our esteemed editor, Mr. Randy Goldberg) has attracted the ire of some internet denizens, and it was enough to call forth this downright brilliant post from Put This On’s Jesse Thorn, defending well-crafted denim, designer interpretations of classic work shirts, and the Americana movement in general.

We’re not much for dwelling on the negative, but with all the accusations of bad faith, it seems healthy to bring things a bit down to earth.

Our humble response»

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09/25/09
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Object

Aging Gracefully

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We ran across this short collared oxford in Gant’s 60 year Anniversary catalog, and we couldn’t help indulging a little nostalgia. Dubbed the “Rugger,” it debuted in the early 70s and finding its way back into stores (specifically Barneys flagships and New York’s Gant outpost) on the heels of the brand’s 60th Anniversary.

But for a shirt that’s pushing 40, it’s handling the years pretty gracefully. It’s a combination of the oxford and the rugby shirt, both longtime staples of the Gant catalog, but the last few years of Americana-fiddling make it look strangely adventurous. That white placket, for instance, wouldn’t look too out of place at a Gilded Age show. Fortunately for the price point, Gant got there first.

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