Kempt

world of men's style / fashion / grooming

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Going Digital

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We were figuring it would take a while for the giants of the old guard to find their way to the new technologies, but we may have underestimated them.

Alan Flusser, for instance, is wasting no time.

The sartorial sage’s latest work is Bespeak, an iPhone app that determines the specs of your perfect suit based on your height, coloring and body shape. The impressive thing is how natural it feels, since so much of his work points men towards exactly this kind of choice. It’s shinier, but the basic wisdom hasn’t changed.

Now we just need to introduce him to these guys.

Shabby Chic

  • Jared Paul Stern

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The style arbiters at the New York Times' T Magazine have revealed what was behind the artful dishevelment of recently deceased pundit William F. Buckley Jr.: dressing up was simply beneath him.

Buckley adopted the blueblood uniform of The Millbrook School, the sort of upper crusty institution where the preppy look was born back in the day, they write, and never grew out of it.

More on the origin of Buckley's style»

Browne Bagged

  • Jared Paul Stern

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Photography: Patrick McMullan

Here's a hint: When Thom Browne's clothes start to look a little ridiculous on *Thom Browne*, it's obviously time to start dressing like adults again. At the unveiling of Repetto shoes' 60th Anniversary traveling exhibition hosted by Moët & Chandon at the Max Lang gallery the other night, Browne in his trademark shrunken ensemble resembled nothing so much as the Frankenstein monster from one of those old-fashioned horror flicks, whose clothes fit him much the same way.

While the fabric and glen plaid patterns were beyond reproach, even artist/designer Tobias Wong seemed a little put off by the cartoonish cut of Browne's jib »

GQ's January Blues

  • Jared Paul Stern

GQ

Note to *GQ* readers: think twice before following the advice on three-piece suits in the January issue too closely. While we're all for the return of vested interests, proper tailoring is absolutely essential when it comes to adding the extra element. You do not want your shirt and tie peeking out between the vest and trousers, and nor should your waistband be on public view, as has happened to *GQ*'s unfortunate model pictured here. Without a smooth, uninterrupted vest-to-trouser transition, “the entire elegance of a three-piece suit is destroyed,” as the great Alan Flusser notes. For this reason, low-slung pants, as on display in *GQ*, do not work on a three-piece, and belt loops have no place here either; side tabs are preferable, and braces are of course the classic choice.

This isn't to say the January *GQ* is a total loss »